This is a pretty common transformer based on a quick google search for the ELK TRG1640 (16.5VAC, 45VA).
They have a green LED, which no longer lights in my busted transformer.
Interestingly, this PDF specification sheet intimates the secondary is "auto fused" (whatever that means):
The electrolytic capacitor did look a little schmushed! It was pressed up against the transister, so I bent it away from the transistor.
BTW, I just noticed the power supply has a "lifetime limited warranty".
I wonder what that means...
Here it says for my ELK-TRG1640 transformer: ? Auto-Resetting (PTC) Fused Secondary
I should mention that I was pretty sure I smelled burnt "plastic", but, since the garage door was open, I wasn't sure if it was coming from outside, as it was windy, or if it was from the garage.
But, the smell *was* within minutes of the alarm wailing three loud beeps before dying an untimely death.
The funny thing though, was that the Generac accident was the day before, so, if it burned up at the time I smelled the burnt plastic smell, that was a day after I had messed with the main breaker panel.
That makes a lot of sense, since the battery, in and of itself, should power the system adequately.
I have a new transformer on order, although I belated realized there is a "limited lifetime warranty" on the ELK-TRG-1640, as described here:
Anyone ever take them up on their "limited" lifetime warranty?
I apologize. As the record shows (in alt.free.newsservers), I had a problem with aioe.org triplicating posts, which, after a while, caused aioe to drop all posts due to "too many errors". Pan, my news client, didn't tell me, so, all posts were lost.
So, I didn't have access to aioe.
When I asked what to do, people said to switch to Solani. But, Solani *forces* you to have a single followup! You can't possibly have a followup to the groups you posted to. I asked alt.free.newsservers *why* Solani does that, and, the answer came back they can do whatever they want (so, the point is, that it doesn't make any sense).
I can't win either way.
After a few days, Aioe let me back in (this is a recurring theme with them); so, hopefully, this will get to both groups (and also alt.free.newsservers) because I'll send it via aioe.
Of course, it could just go nowhere ... and I'll never know, because Pan won't warn me until it's too late (but that's in another thread to news.software.nntp).
** I see no warranty details - all "Lifetime Limited Warranty" means is that there is a time limit on the warranty.
Also, they claim there is a PTC in series with the secondary to prevent overload damage.
PTCs self reset once they cool down.
IME a tranny that is well made, moisture sealed and has a PTC in the output ought to last 10 to 20 years.
.... Phil
Me neither. I'll call them on Monday (they're not open weekends).
It has had plenty of time to cool down! I think the burnt plastic smell gives me a clue. :)
On 11/22/2013 6:11 PM, Danny D'Amico wrote:
The link is to the newer transformers which have PTC "Positive Temperature Coefficient" fuses. As I recall, that type of fuse is a conductive matrix inside a polymer which expands when heated thus raising the resistance of the fuse to that of a high value resistor. As long as the power is on, there is enough enough current flowing through it to keep it warm enough to present a high resistance. When the current flow through it ceases, the fuse cools off and the resistance drops to a low value until the current exceeds it's designed cut off. Any gear with a PTC fuse will shut down until power is removed allowing the fuse to reset. The old transformer you have has a short piece of tiny wire attached in series to the secondary winding of the transformer and it will melt when the current exceeds that which the tiny wire will handle. It's a safety device to prevent overheating of the transformer and the possibility of a fire. That module between the battery and power leads is a battery saver which cuts the connection to the battery when the voltage drops to a predetermined value which the battery will not recover from if it's completely drained. I believe the blue electrolytic capacitor is defective and the module may not work. It could have presented a short circuit to the power transformer which popped the fusible link. It's been a while since I did a lot of work in the alarm industry but the basics haven't changed very much. There a guy who posts here and in several groups who currently works in the alarm business and I could find him and try to get him to respond to your post. ^_^
TDD
Alarm system transformer + power supply (would both go bad at once?) NO
Hi, As well as float charging battery.
Please ask in alt.security.alarms to get better responses from professional installers.
I hate discussing alarm systems here for reasons I'll keep to myself for now.
LOL! I don't think I have ever seen a battery, showing full charge, be bad. It might not last long, but that is not the issue, here.
Properly maintained, a gel battery will last for a very long time. The problem is the charging circuits really don't maintain and tend to die without notice. You will find this in exit signs with emergency lighting. Everyone I have ever checked had a dead battery along with a dead charging board. Yanked and LED replacement installed with better electronics.
Cost more, but it works. Now, convincing the facility maintenance manager to have them self, or someone, do an annual check on that little test button on the buggers, instead of waiting for a power failure to clue them in on the fact that the thing does not work.
HWY 17 turns into 880 at 280.
I was thinking about this and was wondering if the transformer was on its way out, anyway, or if the generator presented an open neutral situation on start-up. Maybe a combination of the two.
I had a messenger cable break at one of my old homes, and without actually getting up on the roof and inspecting it, one would have never noticed the break. Anyway, pretty much every non-protected wall-wart in the house fried. Thankfully, the important ones were on a UPS. I could care less about the phone and the foo foo crap in the bathroom. :-)
snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com...
Exactly. And even if it is bad, you don't need to buy a new one, as has been suggested to find out. Danny has a meter. If he hooks it up and it still measures around 12V and the alarm doesn't power up, it's *not* the battery. Also, if the alarm is totally screwed, there is no sense in wasting money on a new battery. A new panel typically comes with a battery included.
That's my experience also. For example, a fully-charged d-cell will be something around 1.65VDC, and, if it's low, it will be something around 1.4VDC (give or take) but not over its nominal charge of 1.5VDC.
Then again, the loading test is more accurate; but you have to know the load and you have to start with a fully-charged battery, so it's harder to accomplish.
In your case, it's very easy to establish if the battery is the problem or not. Measure the voltage with it connected to the alarm.
Have you ever worked on car charging system and battery? If battery shows mere 12V it is a toast. Charging voltage is around 14V as you know. And in this case hi Z Fluke is not a good choice, use something like Simpson 260. If I were you I'd replace x-former and battery and start from there. If you want, put a in-line fuse and protect them in case. You can talk and and talk and scratch your head all day and it is not gonna get fixed.
Ah. I see. Mine is at least ten (maybe twenty?) years older.
That would explain why it blew once, and then died. I did smell burnt plastic; but the garage doors were open so it dissipated too quickly for me to identify from where. It was only a while later, after testing it, that I realized the power transformer had blown.
I guess the good news is that the newer transformer will survive that, if when I put it in, that's the case of the shorted power circuit.
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