Does anyone here have a Sharp AF-06ERL 6200BTU air conditioner? I bought
one tonight ($114) based on a favorable epinions review*, but I'm
wondering whether I need to take it back (to Lowe's). I've been running
it for an hour and it still doesn't feel very cool in the (13'x12') room
(door is closed). It's not even very hot outside tonight (75), though
humidity is 71. The default temperature on the Sharp is 74. I reduced it
to 68, then 64, and it doesn't feel any different. My husband said it
feels cool when he walks in after being in an non-airconditioned room,
so maybe it's just my imagination, but with my old, noisy, 5200BTU one I
had to turn it down, it got so cold.
This is Turtle.
Run the unit for about 15 minutes on high fan with thermostat turn low as it
Then take a good thermometer and take the temp. of the air coming out for 5
minutes and then lay the thermometer on the other side of the room out of the
air flow of the discharge of the window unit for about 5 minute. Take the
temperatures and it should be 15ºF to 25ºF colder air coming out than the
temperature of the reading of the other side of the room. This is Called the TD
or Temperature differencial. You should have a TD of '' atleast '' 12ºF bring it
back. If you can get a 15ºF or + TD -- Keep it.
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com ).
If there's a lot of humidity in the house, the A/C has to remove the
moisture before the temperature can drop much. It's called the "latent
heat of vaporization."
You might get a better temperature differential if you turn the fan
speed down (the air will spend more time going over the evaporator
coils.) Turning the thermostat down won't do anything; the compressor
is either running or it's not.
I'm curious about rain and window air conditioners. How come they don't
get wrecked by rain? It seems like the unit would get water-logged in a
hard rain and short out....???? I'm talking mainly about the modern
units with the unexposed coils, with large vents on top and sides.
Just like cars. It can withstand some water when it comes in within
designed parameter by having water proofing on the top side of parts,
but it will not withstand submersion.
If you look inside a correctly working a/c, the base pan will have or
have had water in it. The base pan is no more than an inch high.
Nothing with exposed electrical connections is mounted that low in an
air conditioner and if the water ever got any deeper, it would just
leak out the side louvers or through the condenser (rear) coil.
Also, the electrics which are in an air conditioner are reasonably
water resistant as they are designed to have some water in them even
when running normally.
You might get some disagreement on that.
*If* quieter, it likely has to do with the design of the a/c (using
Styrofoam insulation internally as the compartment divider, compressor
design, etc.) or just sh*t luck. I've seen 2 of the very some a/c
models side by side and one was noticeably noisier than the other.
Replacing the compressor (which was causing the major sound
difference) didn't help make then sound exactly same. :(
I have also seen 30-40 year old window/wall air conditioners which
were virtually silent. Many people regret replacing them when they do
even if new ones save considerable energy.
Gave a 40 year old away last year, but I have no regrets. I could no
longer lift it into the window without help as it was at least twice the
weight of the replacement unit. Yes, it sure was quit. Still have a 25
year old. Heavy, but I can handle it.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.