Have an older wooden chair with slats in the back.
Some have worked loose.
Irrespective of what type aof glue I use, the glue will have to fill a
1/16 or so space, as the slats cannot be forced into any closer position.
Do I want Gorilla glue which I think I read is a polyurethane, and will
fill us small gaps ?
Or, an epoxy ?
Or, a hot melt adhesive, perhaps ?
BTW: do hot melt adhesives set up really/totally hard, or only to a
"semi-hard" state ?
Elmer's glue works great for wood...however it needs to be used with
wood that does not already have glue on it as the wood must absorb
it...and it also needs to be clamped.
I recently used Gorilla glue for the first time and found it to be less
What I do is drill a small hole and countersink...use a wood or drywall
screw then cover over the hole with stained wax designed for the purpose.
There might be a better way to do this, but doggone it nothing I've ever
repaired that way ever came apart again/
I thought the same thing about Gorilla Glue when I had a similar situation.
Basically, it didn't work well at all. The glue does foam up and expand but
it didn't seem very strong and didn't hold up well. I had even used wood
shims to make the joints tight first, but the Gorilla Glue just didn't work
My guess is to try using wood shims to make the joints tight. And then
maybe try using this:
LOCTITE Power Grab Heavy Duty Clear Construction Adhesive Model #: 1589156
It goes on white but dries clear. And, if I am not mistaken, it stay just a
little flexible rather than brittle which may make it hold better in your
.. a photo or two would really help.
.. so many different styles of chair construction.
Are you wishing to bond slats into rails ?
.. or filling space between slats .. ?
Some of these olden chairs had a little hidden
brad to hold the slats .. the slats were
floating .. for expansion / contraction ..
My Dad spent about 50 years gluing chairs. He's
been dead for two years, not having found the
answer. Or, maybe he did and neglected to tell
me before his death. I wish you better success
on your quest. Sorry, that sounded depressing.
Didn't mean to.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
Those advising that you don't want to glue glue to glue<g> as well as
those saying you don't use glue to fill the void are correct. In either
instance the glue may hold for the short term but that's only if you're
Hidden screw(s), as suggested, might work depending upon what the piece
actually looks like. I'm thinking of a mortise/tenon joint in this case
and would suggest cleaning out the joints and then fattening up the
tenon: scrape off the glue present, reglue thin pieces of wood to
fatten it up and then reform the tenon to closer tolerance THEN reglue
PITA? Yep but it will give you much better results.
It depends what you mean by slats. If it's a ladder-back chair and
the horizontal pieces are part of the structure, they'd have to be
glued, at the very least the top one.
If there is a structure and these are additional, they may be meant to
be loose. They may have been unglued all these years, but maybe a
coat of varnish held them in place. The coating broke and now they
are floating, but that doesn't mean they should be glued. It
A common design of wooden folding chair is like this, but folding is
only one kind.
It doesn't matter. With old work, you'll never get it to the place it
needs to be. You say only some have worked loose so I assume you're
not planning to disassemble.
| Have an older wooden chair with slats in the back.
| Some have worked loose.
| Irrespective of what type aof glue I use, the glue will have to fill a
| 1/16 or so space, as the slats cannot be forced into any closer position.
I find yellow wood glue is the best, but it does
depend on clean surfaces and tight contact. when
there are gaps I like to use 5 minute epoxy. But
I'm not sure that anything will last a long time
when you're using the glue to fill gaps.
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