Have a pretty old wooden chair where the dowel like supports (that go
between the legs) that help hold the legs together have come out of their
holes in the legs.
Very confused over what adhesive I should use when I push them back into the
Would you suggest an epoxy ?
Or, a "Hide Glue", or one of the Elmer's products, or... ?
Two part epoxy. It will take longer to set, so you might have to put some
kind of clamps or something to make it stay while it's setting up. Put some
paste wax on the areas you don't want the epoxy to stick to. It makes for
easy cleanup after it hardens.
I have seen a special material for just that use. As I understand it,
it works by swelling the wood to lock it in place and can be used when you
have a loose joint before it comes apart. You don't need to take it apart.
All I know is I used some on a set of chairs in my kitchen about 12 years
ago (about half of the chairs needed the fix) and they are all still solid
I understand that you should only use the "proper" glue in this case as
other glues will not work nearly as well. Also sanding the surfaces means a
looser fit and the joint demands close tight fits.
I've switched to Gorrilla Glue for that application and I'm sold on it.
Just remember to keep wiping off any of it which bubbles out of the
joint while it is still soft.
It's pretty near clear when it cures, but an anal inspector could still
notice a fillet of glue if you don't wipe the excess off.
Jeff (Already anticipating clever remarks about "anal inspection".)
Take piece off. *lightly* sand the surfaces. Add Gorilla Wood Glue or
Titebond or whatever other wood glue you have available. Clamp in place
with significant pressure for 1-2 hours, remove clamps or not, then let
sit overnight. After clamping a bit of glue should ooze out the side to
indicate you used enough glue. Wipe off excess with sopping wet rag.
The clamping pressure is important, though Im not sure how this will
work since its a re-glue and the wood at the glue point may not accept
the glue as new wood would.
This is what I have read and understand from the rec.woodworking
newsgroup. Perhaps you should ask there for better answer.
"Then said I, Wisdom [is] better than strength: nevertheless the poor
I might add that wood "comes and goes" with changes in humidity especially
in the winter in homes with forced air heat and no humidity control. Wood
glues and epoxy dry hard with no give while Gorilla Glue is tough, strong
but does remain somewhat pliable thus not pulling away with swrinkage, my
Don't mess with the epoxy - Its not necessary in this case. Hide glue is not
needed either, nor is the special chair doctor stuff that supposedly swells
If the pieces fit snugly, no not have failed glue on them then just use some
carpenters wood glue. The best brand is titebond but any yellow wood glue
will be fine. If these are truly valuable antiques or something then I would
enlist a conservator to make the repair.
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