You added a ground bar?????
The panel was obviously obsolete. The house should have been demolished.
Any house that old is obsolete. Who knows what else has faded. The house should have been demolished.
Home inspectors are clueless for the most part. Until very recently (and still true in some places) these people are self certified. The "test" the trade groups give is trivial and it really seems to be that they just want the money to certify you. I took the HACHI test, got a 94 the first time I saw it and I have never seen a oil fired furnace or any kind of boiler. (several questions on the test) There was an error on the electrical part of the test. If I was willing to send them a few hundred bucks, I would be a certified home inspector. I was on the HACHI BB for a while but I just got tired of explaining things like why it was OK to have 10 ga wire going to a A/C compressor with a 40a breaker, it is OK to put 2 wires on a SqD breaker and that there is no "right" way to orient a NEMA 5-15 receptacle.
These guys get paid to find reasons why the buyer should not pay the seller's price, They sometimes "find" ridiculous things while missing serious issues.
That is my opinion of these guys exactly. They're typically idiots, and their only purpose is to concoct a list of issues that enable the buyer to get a lower price on the house. Listening to Haller, you'd think they had some actual authority. Can't tell you how many letters I've had to write to refute their findings over the years.
9:11:04 -0600, bud-- > wrote: > >> Self tapping s crews can not be used as the electrical connection to the >> box (as gfre twell wrote). A wire would have to be added to the neutral bus. > > You c an use a thread forming machine screw if the metal is thick > enough. > T his is what 250.8 says about it > > (5) Machine screw-type fasteners that engage not less than two > threads or are secured with a nut > (6) Threa d-forming machine screws that engage not less than two > threads in the e nclosure > > This excludes a course thread sheet metal screw. Most parts of a panel are probably not thick enough for 2 threads. If you have a 100 A feeder, are 4 threads (2 screws) adequate for a ground fault (paint blo cks direct contact). It makes me nervous. Presumably the ground bar that is added is "listed". Not all of them are. Some are UL "recognized" compo nents that are not the same as listed. (Or the bar can be accepted by the inspector.)
etal. The boxes I've seen recently all have machine screws holding the g round bars on. I don't see the difference. They don't just drill and tap the sheet metal. They punch the metal into
a depression, then drill and tap the depression, which gives it more depth and more threads
What a bunch of nonsense. I just installed a sub panel in a house so I could add a few circuits to the basement for the purpose of getting a C/O for the basement, for the purpose of selling the house. On what grounds do you think a home inspector would contest the certification from a certified electrical inspector???
good luck on your sale, let us know if the sub panel causes issues.......
It was already in contract when the work was done and closed two weeks later. You are just delusional
Here is a picture of it, so you can tell me what the violation is that your house inspector would find:
It looks like one of the drywall screws is too close to the main panel cover. I've already reported it so be prepared for some serious trouble.
Do you threat\en to feed them the Framistan as a suppository ?
On 3/26/2013 5:50 PM, bob haller wrote:
Bob, your story of the principal and her asinine attitude reminds me of several instance of bizarre demands I've encountered over the years and the actions I've had to take to satisfy the goofballs to let them go about they're life blissfully unaware that they had been bamboozled. I had a partner in a business where we were building sound systems, amps and speakers. The guy was a bit bonkers but who isn't so I tried to use his talents that weren't too far out in space. He insisted on setting the bass and treble controls up one notch past the center on his amp that we were using to test the rather large speakers we were building, claiming he could hear hear the difference. If I ever set the controls to the center, he became angry and set them back to one notch higher. So rather than argue anymore, I set the controls to center, removed the knobs and put them back on so they showed the controls were set one notch above center. When he came by and saw that I was operating the amp with the controls at his preferred setting, the smug look on his face had me laughing internally since he never knew what I had done.... Many years ago, an instructor I had in a course for broadcast engineering gave me a word that I still use which describes a mythical electronic/electric/mechanical device which does not exist and never will, the word is "Framistan". When I've had to deal with someone who has no technical knowledge and is a difficult person to deal with who demands to be told exactly whats wrong with a piece of equipment rather than accepting the explanation that it's broken, I tell them it has a defective Framistan and that my supplier is trying to locate one. If the unpleasant person demands to know what a Framistan is, I go on to explain that it's a quantum resonance device named after the unusual metallic element the device is made with found only in the region of Framistan located in a very hard to access and difficult to mine area between Afghanistan and Pakistan. The substance requires special handling and UPS and FedEx have a very hard time getting in and out of Framistan so even though each device requires a tiny amount of the element, it's very expensive due to the great difficulty obtaining it. If that doesn't satisfy them I finally explain that they will die if they do not walk away from me immediately. ^_^
TDD
Only if they're talking out their ass. ^_^
TDD
None at all, in any of the three houses I've sold. I suppose you think I couldn't get insurance, either.
I have two 150s. Should I change them both to 200s?
It's a near-do-well service, but in most cases not worth the effort or the money to upgrade. Some of the 150's I've seen, only needed to be 100 amp, so I suppose the installers were doing a "better" job at the time
That only applies to "all houses" with wiring over 50 years old, knob & tube, or FPE panels. (Don't wind him up)
Nah, the nutball doesn't think you can get insurance for a house if you've sneezed in it without an inspection. He *IS* a nutball.
I wouldn't in any case. ;-) I'm sure the two service panels are there because of the two heat pumps. Yeah, I'd probably go for two
200s, were I doing the work but it's enough. I'm lucky they put in two 30 position panels. I've already added eight circuits and only have ten slots left. I'll start adding tandems so I don't run out of slots and don't have to put in a sub. Wouldn't want to scare the nutball Haller.BTW, "at the time" = 2007.
9 -0400, RBM wrote:
Just for comparison purposes, what would you say is the typical cost of:
A - Adding a subpanel to the existing 150 panel
B - Putting in a new 200 amp panel, if the meter/service can support it.
C - Putting in a new 200 amp panel including new service from the street, say 75 ft drop.....
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