I live near Pensacola, FL, and recently experienced Hurricane Ivan.
Fortunately my home had minor damage, but my yard which I had invested much
effort in landscaping these past few months has been decimated.
The biggest problem I face is figuring out the best way to handle the
removal of two root balls from trees uprooted by the storm. The smaller
root ball sits above the ground and is about 4' in diameter. The larger
root ball is about 6' in diameter. I have already cut up the trunk portion
of both trees.
I'm assuming that having the root balls lifted out of the yard by crane
would be very expensive. Having them dragged out by tractor or similar
device would likely damage a large portion of the yard (and the underground
sprinkler system). I could have them ground, but I'm not sure if it is
possible for a stump grinder to work on a root ball that sits totally about
ground and is laying on its side.
Can anyone suggest anything I could do to best remove these? I don't want
to take a chain saw to them because of the massive amount of clay-rich soil
embedded in the roots. I had contemplated using a hose to try and wash the
soil away from the rootball a bit at a time. I'm not sure if this would
really even be feasible, though.
Any suggestions on what to do with these would be greatly appreciated.
If you or a friend has a power washer - or they can be rented, or bot from
from Home Depot for 100-150 bucks - you could blast the root ball and remove
much of the clay. Only need to remove enough clay to cut roots down to a
ball-shaped dense mass. Then try rolling it out of the yard, up a ramp, and
into a pickup.
Never done this - just an idea.
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The large machine metioned to grind up the stumps from the golf course
is commonly called a tub grinder.
Around here we haul our yard waste to designated areas when the area
fills up the town brings in a tub grinder and turns it all into mulch
free for the taking
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How about burning them before the 'chaos' dies down? Where I live it is
illegal to burn stumps, but you might have a window of opportunity where the
local laws are "bent".
I have no idea if this is even possible. Just a thought.
no (although memory makes me think I've seen this done before), but does
that disqualify it from working? of course I'd basically rescind this
advice as further info shows the stump to be three feet from the house.
You could make the best of this by (still) gouging out the center but
leaving a rim of three or four inches and then filling the gouge
(hopefully you've made it as deep as possible) with good soil and
planting either vegetables, flowers or even something like a grape vine
which could be trained to climb a trellis. This will either last a long
time or rot away in a few seasons and then you can start over until it
is gone or more easily managable.
On Mon, 27 Sep 2004 14:35:17 -0700, someone wrote:
It doesn't mean it WILL either. It shows me you that have no less
basis to think it will, then I have to think it won't be effective. I
do a lot of chainsaw work for a homeowner (rural property owner who
also has a number of business locations with trees). I have also
burned a lot of "brush" which around here includes what city folk
would call logs and stumps. A fresh stump doesn't burn very well. A
single big chunk of wood doesn't burn very well.
Have you done much chainsaw work? Because to "gouge a big hole" is
definitely NOT something easily done with a chainsaw, ESPECIALLY in a
stump. If it was that easy, he'd just cut up the stump in little
pieces and put them out with the trash, why bother with the hole. The
OP seems well aware of the problems of chain sawing a stump.
Your other idea I don't regard as useful input either - that either it
will or it won't work - so what - it won't help him if it won't.
Basically you have no clue again and are just guessing.
Doesn't burn very well is not the same as doesn't burn at all. Which is
why I suggested starting with charcoal (I suppose you could even start
with coal.) Granted it might burn slowly but I'm not sure there was a
time constraint from the OP.
Okay so start with a little hole and take a little longer. Or start with
lots of little holes.
I believe the issue was of ruining chain, blade, etc with dirt.
Yes the OP seems quite well aware of the problems chain sawing a stump,
which is why I suggested he gouge a hole and burn it...I also suggested
that this might not be such a good idea when I learned the stump was 3
feet away from his house.
We burned a walnut tree stump. First we cut vertical slots down into
the stump with a chain saw so that it had a lot of grooves going down to
near the soil line. Then we started a fire with stove oil and it burned
down into the ground and into the roots. It smoldered for a couple
weeks before we put it out. We never guessed it would work so well. It
was in the fall and the stump was fairly fresh.
Another alternative is to give the stump away. We have people around
here that buy stumps to chop into hardwood mulch for nurserymen. So
perhaps you can find someone who wants the stump.
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Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman
Bury them deeper than they was, and any luck at all, they will re-sprout and
a new tree will grow--depents a lot on the species and if there is suffient
starches in the rootball......you will know if you start getting suckers to
grow offa them as these will definately need trimmed if you only want a
Im a machinist by trade, and am a nurseryman as a hobby--to me the whole gig
reeks of possible opportunity...........anybody maybe need several hundred
rooted trees that do well in Florida ????
I have done this twice, and it IS work, but it works. We have sandy soil in
Nevada where these trees were planted. We started digging them out by the
roots, and used a big shop vac to remove the dirt as we went. This way, you
could easily see the roots that were holding the thing. We cut those with a
sharp double bladed long handled axe. Any type of chainsaw or regular saw
dulls quickly. On one, we had a come along on it with a tight bind on it
because we couldn't get the truck close. On the other, we had a chain to a
four wheel drive truck. It was slow going, but in both cases at a time once
it started to move, it popped out from there, breaking the remaining roots
on its own.
Don't know if that would work with the type of soil you have. We had a
neighbor who suggested the water blaster idea, but decided we would soon
have a muddy moat. It was a chore, but they took only about three hours
each. One was a eucalyptus tree, and the other a chinaball. Both trunks
were about sixteen inches in diameter. If you haven't cut the main trunk
yet, leave it a little tall, and this will improve your pulling leverage.
HTH. There is no easy way to do it.
Lots of good answers in this thread that I'll have to look at.
Never having had a professional come out and do tree work, I can't say how
inflated prices are right now. I can tell you that I was shocked when a
colleague told me that he had a company cut two trees that had fallen in his
yard. I'm not sure exactly how big the trees were, but I can't imagine that
they were more than 40' tall. Both trees were already on the ground and all
this company did was cut them into logs and haul them out to the curb for
debris pickup by the county. For the 1st tree they charged him $475. The
2nd tree was $350. And that did not include removing or doing anything with
the exposed root ball.
I bought a $150 Poulan chain saw and cut up our 3 similar-sized trees by
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