I'd use "spec grade" everywhere on principle. last house I think receps were done in mid 80s and there were enough of them that didn't grab a plug with reassuring tightness that I replaced 'em all, every last one. Downstairs was Decora at the request of SWMBO and big box only had contractor specials but when I did upstairs I used traditional duplexes with antique plates & also had found supply house that was open on Saturdays so got spec grade for those at about the same price as the el cheapos from the big box. Also found some old spec grade switches both SPST and 3-way NIB for dirt cheap @ architectural salvage place. go me.
of course if you are only going to be in house 5 years it probably doesn't matter. In my case the spec grade didn't get me anything but the satisfaction of a job well done because my plans changed and I no longer live there. But at least I did it right. nobody'll be bitching about the quality of my work, unlike my opinion of whoever did the last go-round (wasn't just the cheap receps that pissed me off, there were other issues...)
I misread that, but just for clarification, the Nec requires GFCI protection by receptacle location, not by what you're planning to plug into the outlet. Every receptacle in a garage, or unfinished part of a basement requires GFCI protection, even if you plan to plug in a fridge or freezer
Wrong. It says you can't use a 20A outlet on a 15A circuit, period. You've apparently become confused by the provision that you can put 15A outlets on a
20A circuit as long as there's more than one outlet. That's perfectly OK. Putting a 20A outlet on a 15A circuit is a violation in all cases, without regard to how many there are.
It says no such thing. It is, for example, a violation to put a 50A outlet on a 20A circuit.
No, it cannot. Look at Table 210.21(B)(3), where it lists the permissible receptacle ratings. For a 15-amp circuit, the maximum receptacle rating is "not over 15".
Doesn't make any sense to me either. Of course, that's because you're completely wrong about the rules.
So you like those "vintage" cover plates too? I've got a big box full of 'em, gleaned mostly from a local recycled-goods store. (I assume you're talking about the old ivory plastic plates with various molded designs). So much better looking than those boring new plastic ones.
Then you run an extension cord from an outlet in the house into the garage, for the fridge.
None of my garage outlets have any GFCIs The original wiring from the
1920's or 30's was constantly shorting out, especially those hanging light sockets hung by cotton covered wires which were half bare from age. And the old turn type bakelite switch with exposed hot wire screws was sparking quite a but when it was turned, probably because of years of water leaking down that wall from a bad roof. And most of the outlets were single ones, not duplex and not one had a ground. The wiring was a combination of knob and tube, some sort of cloth covered romex, metal sheathed cable, and a small section of conduit, which was actually black gas pipe. The fuse box was supposed to have two 15A plug fuses, but both were 30A fuses, with one cartridge fuse for a main fuses also being 30A, and a pull down shut off handle with both sides of the line switched (hot and neutral) and exposed so anyone could touch it.
No one ever died from it. So why the hell do I need GFCIs now?
As fas as this old wiring, about ten years ago the garage roof collapsed from snow, and caused the wiring to completely short out when the wires got torn apart as the roof fell. Those old hanging lights got crushed, and the fuse box was mangled. Well, I had to build a new roof, and in the process, I replaced 3 of the 4 walls due to rot and cracked studs from the roof collapse. I ended up having to replace the fuse box with a new breaker box having 12 breakers instead of two fuses. Then I had to rewire with modern romex and new light fixtures and outlets. Of course all of the old wiring was grandfathered in, because this was an old garage from the 1920's, it just had a new roof, and 3 new walls, so I was not required to follow any electrical codes on an 80 year old garage building like this. I even put that old turn type bakelite switch back on the wall just for memories, even though it's not connected.
By the way, a year later I built an addition on to the garage and destroyed all but 8 feet of the studs of that original wall. So, it's now a completely new building. except for about 6 or 7 2x4's. But hey, this is an 80 year old building, so I dont need no stinking GFCI outlets or other useless modern nonsense. Hell, if the inspectors were to come, I'll just hammer out the dents on that old fuse box, and screw it to a piece of plywood, and put that plywood over the top of my breaker box. This is an 80 year old building (or actually 90 now), and they did not have breakers or GFCIs in 1920.
Uh Oh, sounds to me like someone is lying. 20 lashes for whoever is found to be the guilty party, that's if this does not end up being a full blown nuclear usenet war. Now load your pistol, turn around, take 20 steps, and fire your firearms at each other..... Someone will die in the end ......
Unfortunately, your conclusion that "no one ever died from it" is completely incorrect. Not only have people died from it, but buildings have burned down from it. This is exactly why the National Electrical Code has evolved, and every three years has an upgrade. Whether you agree with it or not, the intent of the NFPA and it's NEC is to safeguard life and property.
You didn't have to wait long. Here it is. No need to get sarcastic and snippy.
" 210.21 Outlet Devices. (B) Receptacles. (1) Single Receptacle on an Individual Branch Circuit. A single receptacle installed on an individual branch circuit shall have an ampere rating not less than that of the branch circuit."
That is clear as day. A 20 amp single receptacle has an ampere rating greater than that of the circuit, hence it MAY be used. If they wanted to prohibit using a 20 amp or greater single receptacle on a 15 amp circuit, all they had to do was say the receptacle has to have a rating EQUAL to the circuit.
Actually it does say exactly what I said it does, as shown above. You're the one who's confused, which is OK, but why the attitude?
Yes, let's look at that section. In the same section where it starts to explain those tables it starts off with:
"210.21(B)(3) Receptacle Ratings. Where connected to a branch circuit supplying TWO or MORE receptacles or outlets, receptacle ratings shall conform to the values listed in Table 210.21(B)(3)"
The added emphasis is mine. Since we are talking about using a SINGLE
20 amp outlet on a 15 amp circuit, those tables do NOT apply.
Actually it's quite clear that you're the one who's wrong here. A simple admission to that and apollogy for getting snippy will suffice.
" 210.21 Outlet Devices. (B) Receptacles. (1) Single Receptacle on an Individual Branch Circuit. A single receptacle installed on an individual branch circuit shall have an ampere rating not less than that of the branch circuit."
Since 20amps is greater than 15amps, the 20 amp receptacle may be used on a circuit where it is the only receptacle.
NEC 210.21(B)(3) starts off by saying that section only applies to circuits with more than one outlet. We are talking about a SINGLE outlet. In which case, the following section applies:
" 210.21 Outlet Devices. (B) Receptacles. (1) Single Receptacle on an Individual Branch Circuit. A single receptacle installed on an individual branch circuit shall have an ampere rating not less than that of the branch circuit."
Since the 20 amp outlet has a rating greater than the 15 amp circuit, it may be used. Now, I would agree it doesn't make much, but that is what is says, and hence was my point.
"Of course all of the old wiring was grandfathered in, because this was an old garage from the 1920's, it just had a new roof, and 3 new walls, so I was not required to follow any electrical codes on an 80 year old garage building like this."
Say what? The roof collapsed causing lights, wiring, even the fuse box to be damaged to the point they had to be replaced and you were not required to follow any codes because it was grandfathered? Where do you live? Every place I'm aware of you would be required to not only follow code, but bring the part that is being replaced up to the current code.
And if, as you claim, you were not required to follow code, then why the need for this statement:
"Hell, if the inspectors were to come, I'll just hammer out the dents on that old fuse box, and screw it to a piece of plywood, and put that plywood over the top of my breaker box. "
Your approach to safety seems to be that since nothing bad has happened so far, that means you should just keep doing the same thing and not learn from standards and practices that are in place based on the experience from millions of similar situations over decades. Kind of like texting while driving and since you haven't had a wreck or killed anyone so far, it must be OK to keep doing it.
All but one of the exceptions disappeared in the 2008 NEC. (The remaining one is for alarm panels.)
The NEC panel does not see a problem with refrigeration on GFCI. In commercial kitchens plug-in refrigeration (15/20A, 120V) is required to be on GFCIs. The UL allowed leakage is around 0.5mA if I remember right.
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