I have to run 4 new circuits for a kitchen I am helping to remodel for
a friend of mine
1- Microwave/Range hood
2-counter outlets ( as required by code I was told)
The runs from the kitchen to the panel is very long and I also have to
drill through several ceiling joists. I was thinking of running 2-12/3
cables instead of 4-12/2 cables. Is this allowed by code? I think
someone mentioned for the counter outlets is fine, but I'm not sure
about the fridge and microwave.
But don't you have to gang the breakers for the outlets and/or the
fridge/micro, if you wire it like that? Kinda defeats the purpose of
having separate strings, methinks. Plus, 12/3 is a lot harder to work
with, and stuff into boxes. I'm no code wizard, but IIRC, you have to
maintain both hots all the way to the end of the string, and are not
allowed to split the neutral and head 2 different directions. But I
could be wrong- somebody will be along to correct me momentarily.
I can't remember- how big does the hole through a joist have to be, to
pass multiple 12/2 feeds through it? I'd go that route if you can.
And on general principles- even if something 'odd' is code legal, or
barely so, it will confuse the poor SOB 20 years from now working on it.
Best to keep things as simple and self-evident as possible.
When it's a long run, it makes sense to use a 3 wire. You just terminate it
in a big ass box. It is a bit annoying to have to use a double pole breaker,
because you can't just shut down one circuit, but the idea is to prevent
miswired Edison circuits, which can be a fire hazard.
Thanks for everyone's input. I might just play it safe then and just
Now to another subject without starting a new thread: is there a
certain guidline on where to drill holes in 2X8 joists? Can I feed
2-12/2 romex's into one hole? How big of a hole can I drill?
No. Holes and notches are a bit different in their effects on stress
concentration. Holes are less problematic (I'm trying really, really
hard not to make some innuendo with that one!), so that's why I advise
to avoid notching if at all possible.
Thanks, a great diagram.
I remember a while ago someone posted one similar but it also spoke to
the prohibition of holes in the "bearing zone".
Something like "no holes within xx" of the end of the joist /
beam" ? Bearing zone or shear zone? I dont remember the details &
cannot find the thread or link.
The reason why I prefer notches is because I have to break a sheetrock
ceiling in a living room a few times to run the wires to the panel.
Rather than cut several big holes in the sheetrock to drill through
the floor joists, I thought just "notching" the sheetrock under where
the joist is, then notchng the joist would be easier and less to patch
Maybe the existing 40A circuit I have for the stove is fine. I just
went on GE's website and looked at the specs for their electric
stoves, and they all say use 40A minimum circuit. They also say to use
a 40A stove plug kit. So at least I don't have to re-run the circuit,
which would have been a PITA.
Notching is much, much worse for the strength of the joist than
drilling a hole at the centerline. A 2x8 notched 1" deep at the
bottom has the same remaining depth as a 2x7, but only half the
strength at that location. The corner of the notch creates a stress
concentration and a place for a crack to start propagating.
The difference in patching a 2" x 2" hole in a drywalled ceiling is
not all that much less than patching a 4" x 12" hole, and, like I
mentioned earlier, you should avoid notching. Notching affects floor
stiffness and deflection, holes don't.
You'd also be required to cover each notched wire crossing with a
metal plate, and that can create a small lump in the ceiling. Maybe
not a big deal, but you'd have to feather out the patch more than a
BTW, my purpose here is not to always make less work for you, it's to
help you to always do better work with the least amount of effort
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