lawn lime

ok, i can lime now, and put off seeding til late september to help give it time. that shouldn't be a problem. only need 60 lbs/100 sf for the small back yard. as for shocking the soil, the back yard has zero foilage whatsoever, so i think i should just be able to do one treatment and let it settle over time. is that right?

ok, my soil test says use 14 lbs for 700 sf of 5-10-5 for my front yard.

A) how do I compare the oz's of "bloom buster" to lbs of fertilizer? and.... B) will the double the available nitrogen be dangerous. everything i read says nitrogen is the thing to watch the most. should i try to use half the equivalent of this stuff (plus divide by three since i will be doing this three times?) C) will extra phosphorus versus what the soil test says pose any problems (like excess nitrogen will)

i think i can relate to that. the starter fertilizer helped grow some pretty darn tall rye grass for a temporary turf in a bare spot, but the roots are tiny and can't support the blades very well.

thanks so much for the advice. my lawn is a joke (bought a house with a bad yard that i let get worse due to lack of time). making time this year. plus, my weeds are invading my neighbor's very nice yard, which isn't cool even though she hasn't complained. just been reading like crazy and trying to figure out which way is up. but everything said get a soil test, and it's free, and the lab is 10 minutes away, so that was a no brainer.

thanks again!

Reply to
franklin.jerry
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Limestone takes a long time to have an effect on the PH, so I wouldn't make it harder by doing multiple applications spaced only 10 days apart. If you're tilling the soil in the area to be seeded, I'd apply the lime first, then till to incorporate it.

For fertilizing, a starter fertilizer should be put down at the time of seeding. Read the seed bag and fertilizer bag.

Reply to
trader4

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