You know, the kind that has a solid plastic float that operates a flat
screw type axle to turn a needle in the cap showing the amount of fuel left.
These plastic floats seem to allow gas to permeate the float, giving a
less than correct fuel level.
I suppose I can buy a new cap/gauge/float assembly for this particular
tank, but that would only solve the problem for a while until that float
I wonder if I can paint some sort of material on the float to make it
more resistant to permeation of the gas?
I know the material has to be non-soluble in gasoline.
These aren't cheap but might be an alternative:
I didn't look for any deals. These are the first I found.
Maybe a motorcycle style petcock would work. They let one use most
of the fuel in the on position. Switching to reserve lets one know it's
time to refuel. An example here:
If you look closely, you'll see "reserve" on the valve. Some have the
added feature of automatically shutting off the fuel once the engine is
stopped. The valves are opened by the engine vacuum.
This is the first of these I found with the markings easily visible.
If it's anything like I'm picturing it would need some serious
customization for a different float to work. I'm picturing the cap with
something that looks like a dip stick, but with it twisted not quite 360
degrees and it goes through a small slit opening in the float. When the
float goes up and down it turns the twisted dipstick which is attached
to the gauge needle. (there is a little more to it that keeps the float
from turning instead of the float turning the gauge) I don't know what
type of sealant would hold up floating in gasoline?
On Sat, 06 Mar 2010 10:24:45 -0500, willshak wrote:
The one on our old lawn tractor bounces around so much as to be pretty
useless anyway - maybe modern ones have a better setup and baffles in the
tank or something.
I've got quite good at knowing how far it'll run on a full tank - and
there is a slight change in engine note when it's about a minute away
from going dry, so I know to fill up again on the next run past the shed
where I keep the gas can.
Pretty much have to buy a new cap. If gas has already soaked into the
float, then no type of sealer is going to stick. Even if it did, it
would weigh down the float and give you a wrong reading, which is the
problem you are trying to solve. I dont see too many of theese type of
floats go bad, but it does happen, and no type of repair or jerry
rigging will fix it properly. Good Luck....Todd, Owner, Nuevo Lawn and
Garden Equipment Repair
snipped-for-privacy@the.Oasis wrote the following:
I don't use it as a definite source of the fuel left, but I'd like to
know that it is getting low when I am at the far end of my property so I
don' t have to take a walk all the way back to the garage to get more fuel.
When I am emptying the clippings from the baskets in the compost heap at
the back of my property, I can check the level by eye, if I don't forget
I know this probably sounds stupid to you, but have you ever thought
of filling the gas tank full before you start to mow? If you do this,
you will never run out of gas and will not need a gauge.
Hank <~~~wonders where all the logic in the world went
On Mon, 15 Mar 2010 07:38:03 -0700, Hustlin' Hank wrote:
Yeah... we've got a little over 2 acres of grass, normally takes me
somewhere between 2 and 2.5 hours to cut (blades are somewhere around
40" - I'd have to dig the mower out to check for sure though). I don't
think the tank's much over 2 gallons, though - so it takes about 3 to cut
that much (usually every 2 weeks during growing season)
I keep wondering about getting a "full sized" tractor with a mowing deck
(it'd be useful for other stuff too), but I'm not sure what the running
costs would be like - although it'd save time, I don't know if it'd
necessarily save on gas.
On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 17:40:28 -0700, Midnite wrote:
Well, the float will sit more or less on the surface; in my lawn tractor
the tank's maybe 10" deep, so even if the float sits 1/2" lower with
sealer, that's "only" a 5% error (I say only because the thing bounces
around so much in use that it's pretty much impossible to take an
accurate reading anyway).
It's possible to get car body filler that's rated for gas contact, so
that might be worth a try if the float is holed in a single place (but if
it is, a soldering iron would probably work to melt the plastic and seal
the hole anyway).
If the plastic's deteriorated and is letting gas through all over, I
think I'd be looking at cutting the old float apart and somehow attaching
a new one to it...
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