Trane Heat Pump Runs on

[mikeboyd]

last week our house was cold and I noticed that the system was not running. I checked the thermostat. It was set on heat, fan 'on' and the normal/emerg switch was set to normal (always has been). I didn't find anything obvious, so I hit the breakers and it came on and all was good. Tonight however, it seemed hot in the house and sure enough, the thermostat was set on 70 degrees, it was nearly 80 (checked on the thermostat and 2 other places in the house) and still blowing hot air. I've done all I know. I played with the light switch on the inside unit (fan cutout, I guess). THe outside unit keeps running. I've flipped all the breakers, played with the setting on the thermostat and even flipped the normal/emerg switch to 'emerg', but the outside unit keeps running. It keeps running even when the fan stopped engaging. I finally pulled the big fuse on the outside wall, by the outside unit.

Any thoughts (besides calling the local Trane service rep in the morning)?

thanks

PS: changed the filter about 2 weeks ago.

[Jeffrey Lebowski]

Okay then...

I'm just gonna sit back and observe on this one...

[Jeffrey Lebowski]

Except, I recall one of the regulars ( Nooner ? ) here was asking about trane just the other day--and since I just recently had some minor issues in re-commisioning one ( American Standard belonginging to my own brother ) just last weekend ( after his having a prolonged power outage, hp main breaker was thrown, likely due to not allowing time for the crankcase heater to bring comp up to temp )

Anyways--I thought I'd scan the docs for the heat pump, fossil fuel kit etc. for future use...

Several pages of fairly hi-res scans, and so you'll need to have some bandwidth--but should be able to access them at the following link :

Notably, the TDR as depicted on the taystat fossil kit schematic was in actuality just a std sequencer--garden variety unit as would be typically found with heat strips--unknown is whether or not the III series t8611* stat actually had the capability of any heat anticipater setting.

Oh well--a WR control presented in the actual furnace, ( heritage 80 ) system had flatly refused to energize Y at the outside unit untill I had finally cycled off then back on power to the furnace proper...seems to be working fine now...( shrug )

[Bubba]

Sure. Just keep pulling the big fuse on the outside wall, by the outside unit. If you dont want to call a service tech out and you cant fix it yourself (which you obviously cant) then you've pretty much limited yourself to your own "fix". Bubba

[Stormin Mormon]

Sounds a lot like you have a contactor (sometimes called a relay) gone bad. Not something most folks can troubleshoot and repair at home. So, calling a HVAC repair tech is the way to go.

[Oscar_Lives]

Try taking the fuses out and replacing them with copper pipes.

If that doesn't work, then sand the coil with an 80-grit belt sander and douse it with hydrofluoric acid.

If that doesn't work, crimp off the return line with a pair of vice grips.

If that doesn't work, change the compressor oil to Quaker State 10w40.

If that doesn't work, try a new thermostat.

If that doesn't work, then use a reamer on the flare fittings.

If that doesn't work, then you probably need a union tech.

If that doesn't work, then just sit up in the attic and lick a window for a few hours.

[KC - MikeBoyd]

Well thanks for the one serious piece of advice, which turned out to be the case (relay) when I called the service tech the next day.

For the other contributors, please consider finding a real hobby or a therapist, or in some way try to find out why you think other people enjoy your childish non-helpful banter. If you're always like this, well I either feel sorry for your wives, or totally understand why you don't have one.

[Stormin Mormon]

A pleasure to make your aquaintance, sir. I'm pleased to hear that your system is repaired and serving you well.