We have an apartment with a rheem air conditioner, split type with the condenser unit outside and indoor coil in furnace. We recently had the outdoor unit cleaned. The unit runs for about 10 to 15 minutes and then stays off for about 5 to 10 minutes. Inside is stuffy and the air coming out of the registers is 72 degrees. The gauge readings are 60/300, most of our other units run 70/225. Could the TEV valve be defective?
your evaporator coil my be clogged with dirt sir.. lucas
Sounds more like a dirty condensor. 300# translates as 130F. What's the temperature of the liquid line as it comes off the condensor? Probably pretty hot.
I've worked on at least a couple split systems where the gages are all great readings but no cooling. Try cleaning the condensor. yeah, looks great. Clean it anyway.
Here's one for ya Stormy...
Bryant RTU... 588 model Trouble reported... no cooling - frozen evap coil After unit thaws out...
Filter clean, evap looks clean, blower is operational, cond looks clean... Readings as follows
IWB 68 SP 61 / 34 ST 92 / SH 58 LP 295 / 129 LT 122 / SC 7 AT104 CT 125 DT 21 CRLA 18.0 Actual 15.5 A
What's your diagnosis?
I have a question.
If you're not comfortably qualified to clean/service the "outdoor unit", why in the world are you applying a set of gauges to the lines?
Improper use of gauges will introduce air (aka non-condensables) into your system. They probably don't tell you that on the Harbor Freight Gauge-Set box.
Makes ya wonder what would be the symptoms of non-condensables running around in a cooling system, doesn't it? Hmm..... no telling now what the original problem may have been.
-zero
Always questions never answers THAT'S MY HERO
Ah, good old KJ Pro. Still posting? I made that confrontational fellow disappear ages ago.
Must suck not to be able to answer the question. LMAO
Just because he nailed your ass as being incompetent.
Whats-a-matter Stormy, don't even want to guess? LOL
That's easy. Thermostat is bad! Bubba :-) PS: Make sure you use and expensive digital programmable model
De fibrillate?
With the new digital wiring for best results!
No, because he's confrontational. I don't do online combat.
The new non metalic, sodium and cholesteral free wire.
Then just answer his question. Here's the information:
Here's one for ya Stormy...
Bryant RTU... 588 model Trouble reported... no cooling - frozen evap coil After unit thaws out...
Filter clean, evap looks clean, blower is operational, cond looks clean... Readings as follows
IWB 68 SP 61 / 34 ST 92 / SH 58 LP 295 / 129 LT 122 / SC 7 AT104 CT 125 DT 21 CRLA 18.0 Actual 15.5 A
What's your diagnosis?
Stormy is waiting for someone to answer the question so he can parrot the f****ng answer........Awwwk!
Then just answer his question. Here's the information:
Here's one for ya Stormy...
Bryant RTU... 588 model Trouble reported... no cooling - frozen evap coil After unit thaws out...
Filter clean, evap looks clean, blower is operational, cond looks clean...
CY: Looks clean... can be deceptive. I've worked on units that look fine, but after cleaning coils, the performance is much different.
Readings as follows
IWB 68 SP 61 / 34
CY: For an R-22 unit, that's a good SP.
ST 92 / SH 58
CY: SH is a bit high. Makes me wonder, is it absorbing excess BTU, or failing to release those BTU?
LP 295 / 129
CY: That could be h igh for LP, but then, it gets hot on roof tops. Lets keep reading.
LT 122 / SC 7
CY: Presuming that's the LT coming off the bottom of the condensor. That's rather warm, so lets see what air temps we have to work with.
AT104 CT 125 DT 21
CY: It would be nice if the LT was closer to the ambient AT. It is clear that we are discharging some heat, as the condensor does have some DT. Still, at this point I'm thinking the condensor coil need cleaning. Sure sounds like the liquid line temp is a bit high.
CRLA 18.0 Actual 15.5 A
CY: So, the compressor is running slightly under current. This indicates that it isn't moving the weight and volume of refrigerant that is designed for the system.
What's your diagnosis?
CY: It's the thermostat. It's almost always the thermost. Needs a new digital, programmable. And it has to be wired in with non metalic, electron free wire. So, when you all stop laughing,snorting, snerking, and guffawing, continue reading. From the information we have, the system appears to have two problems, and there may be more problems than that. The high liquid line temp indicates that the condensor needs cleaning. For me, that's the first step. The liquid line should be closer to the ambient air temp. The high super heat suggests one of several things. The RA ducts may be leaking, and pumping attic air. Less of a concern in the case of a packaged roof top. The suction line insulation may be missing or ineffective. (Less likely a concern in a roof unit; I'd be thinking bad insulation in a residential split). Or, the system may be gosh awful low on freon. If the only problem was clogged condensor, I'd be expecting a warm evaporator. Considering the frozen coil, I'd want to clean the condensor and then recheck the SH. Might need to hook up the old jug and give her a rip of that good Freezon stuff.
wrote
Wow, where do we start? This evap has a header with pistons and the AT is 104. Do you still think that a SP of 68 would be normal???
How is the evaporator absorbing excessive btu's with a IWB of 68??? Failing to release btu's with a DT of 21 across the condenser???
Since this unit is fairly old I would bet the ducting is fine Unit was manufactured without suction line insulation What to guess again?
The morons thought process is, um, restricted, but don't tell him that.
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