Radio interference from Bryant hi-ef furnace.

[gofish]

hard to hurt my feelings canadian Hack, considering I no longer read your posts..

[Anonymous]

HAHAHA bubbs!

You like catfish?

Funny, your both bottom feeding scum suckers!

Have a nice day :)

-Canadian Heat

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[Bubba]

Seems as though you are repeating my material, DANgER. Are you running out of material? Cant think on your own anymore just as before. Cant diagnose so you just replace until its fixed? Loser, Loser, Loser. Bubba

[Bob_Loblaw]

DANgER ( [e-mail]) wrote

No it isn't. That's pure bullshit and you know it. You're just trying to cover your ass. Like Fish said, it's the ventor. Any tech who's been in the trade more than two years should know this. Do the rest of us Canadians a big favour and emigrate to Kazakstan. You are on par with Borat.

[Bubba]

Nah..........DANgER thinks its the blower door safety switch that causes the interference.That's why he wires em out all the time. He don't need no steeken door switch. He also thinks "Dirty Sock Syndrome" is when he takes he socks off, turns em inside out and uses them for a second week. Bubba

[BlackHawk96]

Thanks for the advice Ken.

I checked the wiring and the furnace is properly grounded, at least by visual inspection. Do you have any other ideas?

Sincerely, BlackHawk

[BlackHawk96]

Thanks for your thoughts, Canadian Heat.

I emailed Bryant describing my problem, even though their website says not to ask them technical questions. They say to call a Bryant serviceman. I also asked them if I have one of the furnaces which has the plastic laminated mild steel secondary heat exchanger instead of stainless steel. I didn't mention the class action lawsuit which has been brought against Carrier for defective materials in the secondary heat exchanger.

I made careful note of when exactly the radio interference was being produced during the cycle. I was surprised to find that it was not being produced at or near the beginning of the cycle. It occurs some time after 5 minutes into the cycle, one or more times per cycle, with a duration ranging from 90 seconds to 5 minutes.

I pulled the control panel to have a better look at that big oval can capacitor. It is definitely the fan motor capacitor. I'm a little rusty on when those capacitors are in play. Am I wrong in assuming that the capacito is only used to get the motor started? If the capacitor was in play all the time the fan motor were running, that would match more closely the static pattern observed. When I held my walkman radio near that capacitor the static didn't get louder. It is very hard to pinpoint the source of the RFI with the Walkman. My ears may be playing tricks on me, but the gas valve seems to be the focus, but that is a very close call.

I would appreciate hearing your insight on this.

Sincerely, BlackHawk

[DIDO]

Dear Blackhawk I have no idea what furnace you have or what it may look like but what you describing, to me it seems that when furnace have reach satisfactory temperature something is trying to limit that temperature or even perhaps trying to shout it down check you limit control device it could be set little closer then it should be I will also assumed that this is hot element turn on and not arc type device turn on the capacitor are normally use in running winning to keep motor running in right direction and are on at all time as long as fan is on also be careful running capacitors always are having much higher voltage then your supply voltage and can also have charge in them even after unit is bee shout down

Dido

[Jake]

'Visual Inspection' is NOT a good way to check for proper grounding.

What... exactly... did you do during your 'visual inspection'?

Jake

[BlackHawk96]

I took off the cover of the connection box and observed that the ground wire was wire-nutted to the green pigtale which was firmly attached under the grounding screw, which was tight. It doesn't make sense to me that this is a grounding problem due to the nature of the problem. Why would the static intensity be in the form of a bell-shaped curve if grounding were the problem?

Sincerely, BlackHawk

[Oscar_Lives]

Try an audio inspection.

[Oscar_Lives]

Dildo say that!

No one else has a clue what he said, though...

[Bob_Loblaw]

"DIDO" wrote

And you claim to be in the trade?

And you claim to be in the trade?

And you claim to be in the trade?

And you claim to be in the trade?

And you claim to be in the trade? Seriously Dido, what exactly do you do for a living?

[DIDO]

HOW MANY TIMES YOU NEED TO BE TOLD THAT I AM NOT IN YOU TRADE DUMB ASS BUT THEN AGAIN WHAT ONE CAN EXPECT IDIOT WHO CAN'T EVEN HOLD SCREW DRIVER IN HIS HAND WITH OUT READING MANUAL OR BEEN SHOWN HOW Happy days or here DIDO

[DIDO]

YOU DO NOT NEED TO KNOW YOU ARE PRO.???? HaHahaha DIDO

[Bob_Loblaw]

"DIDO" wrote

So if you're not in our trade, why do you continually try to answer HVAC questions? Questions that only someone in the trade could answer? Also.....how DUMB do you think YOU look to the rest of us every time you do this? So like I said, brainiac, what is it that someone alledgedly pays you $100 an hour to do? Answer questions that your not qualified to answer??? Why don't you go to alt.airline_pilots and tell them how to fly their planes? ROTFLMAO!!! Lastly, what country are you from, so I can be sure I never go there.....

[Bob_Loblaw]

"DIDO" wrote

Hey Dildo, my friend is a medical professor at John Hopkins University. He's willing to pay your family one million dollars for your brain when you die....because it's never been used...

[Bubba]

And if that doesnt work out that retard DANgER will be a wonderful candidate. Bubba

[Jake]

A wire-nut connection is NOT a solid ground. Secondly... I don't really understand here... Are you saying there is a ground wire coming from your electrical panel that is then wire-nutted to a pigtail on your unit? Proper grounding means a Green ID'd wire coming from your primary panel and FIRMLY attached to the unit by approved methods. A lug is usually provided for this in commercial stuff (I don't know about resi so much). Then, every raceway and metal contacting the unit is 'bonded' to the unit itself by approved methods. It is important for your safety that this is all done correctly.

It's a bell-shape because the motor is running variable-speed. It's using a cheap 'frequency chopper' to do this, most likely. Maybe the HVAC guys will chime in here, but I doubt this is a DC motor.

A 'chopper' generates one hell of a lot of electrical 'noise' that needs dumped off. Usually, that's done through the ground... which is why it's critically important here.

I had a neighbor with a similar problem last year, as I recall. As it turned out, HIS unit was fed from a sub-panel where the grounds and neutrals were improperly bonded... another dangerous but common practice.

Jake

[Tekkie®]

I think the ultimate inspection would be the Procto-Booster®