I'm an electrical engineer and saw this show on PBS about how easy it
was to install a mini split ductless AC system.
I figured I could do it, and did it. Installed and working like a
champ, but the Chinglish instructions say to open the liquid and gas
refrigeration valves and don't say how far to open them. 90 degrees
to purge the lines (R410a), but nothing more after that.
My unit is a Klimaire 1800 BTU and the valves are brass with a cap,
under that is the valve stem which is a metric hex key.
The question: Are these double seat valves? Are there two seals -
one that is compressed when the valve is closed and another when it is
turned fully CCW (open) to seal off leakage past the valve stem?
On Fri, 17 Jun 2011 11:01:45 -0400, .p.jm.@see_my_sig_for_address.com
Dude, that is ambiguous.
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EE from the days of vacuum toobs and retired today.
Just wound a current transformer for the AC so I can tell when the
compressor is running - lights an LED when the compressor is on.
Took a split bobbin 110/220 transformer, cut the 12 volt secondary off
with a hacksaw, wound 10 turns of #13 AWG magnet wire (only draws 7.9
amps @ 220 max) wired that to a FBI cap and blinking LED.
Today I plan to design a blinking circuit which will flash
proportionately faster as current increases. ( I get 1.1 volts to ~8
volts out of the CT with 1,000K ohms load)
You were saying?
On Fri, 17 Jun 2011 12:33:15 -0400, .p.jm.@see_my_sig_for_address.com
Too true most days.
But it is wonderful too.
Never had the time to build a Tesla coil until I was retired and
building bird houses. The raw bird houses looked like induction coil
boxes (being somewhat more ambitious than a TC). I figured that if I
applied some of the self-reliance spirit to the TC problem I could do
it. Sure, but that was easier than I expected.
At work no one (among the chemists) understood how hard, what they
were asking for, was to do, so I did it to keep my job (and because my
ego is the size of Mt. Rushmore and it was an engineering problem -
that is to say, solvable with a modicum of thought).
I went from Tesla coils to winding an induction coil with 13 miles of
wire in it (all in neat little layers on bobbins I made with
insulating paper between layers) +/- 300 feet. Took a week to wind and
a month to build. Adapted from a book published in 1900.
From there it was an interest in resonance, from reading Nicola
Tesla's works, and experiments, and somehow I got off on building
organ pipes - to combine resonance, science, music and wood working.
My only problem in life is time to do what I want to try.
Now I'm interested in Programmable Integrated Controllers and trying
to make a chime (two octaves and electro mechanical strikers already
designed) to play a few bars of "Pictures at an Exhibition."
Retirement agrees with me.
On Fri, 17 Jun 2011 13:37:57 -0400, default wrote:
Tesla got you beat all hollow in the 'weird' department :-)
But I worry some that seeing little birdies nesting makes you
want to build a device that generates large high-voltage sparks ....
Have you ever heard of a more modern device called a 'barbeque' ?
Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!
Locked Rotor Amps, what a motor draws while stalled IE the rotor/armature
isn't turning. The LRA spike as the comp starts could fry your LED over
time. I would limit the max voltage with a big zener diode.
On Fri, 17 Jun 2011 14:02:14 -0500, "Daniel who wants to know"
Oh.. got it.
I see a spike of >`100 volts on the current transformer
The compressor is a DC, variable frequency, three phase drive. The
input caps charge the moment power is applied, so for a millisecond or
two I see a high voltage on the current transformer, after that ....
it's pretty much long cyclical up and down until the compressor stops
Then... it seems to wait for the ambient to climb to 2 degrees F to
turn on again. Damn Europeans - 2 degrees is a lot, this is a Celsius
device reading in Fahrenheit. Set points are 2 degrees F apart.
In industry we would only say "VFD (drive)" - they were all single
phase or 3 phase input to charge the DC capacitor bank to output 3
phase to the motors.
Locked rotor? That's old DC motors isn't it? Procter and Gamble in
1980, used those, up to 200 hp. Control panels were filled with op
amps and took for days to get them all calibrated.
I buy the parts off the shelf to do the same thing cheaper than I can
build it myself but your way is defiantly more fun though it takes
longer. If you're doing a project for a customer, you don't have to
design and build all the basic functions, just put the building blocks
together. I adore these guys for their ready made versatile solutions:
I installed one years ago at my rental condo downtown. After
all is done, I had to call a friend who is a HVAC tech. for final check.
He made sure there is no leak, charge state was proper(he topped it up)
Been running well since. It is LG brand.
That was my first choice too. Unfortunately the guy I used to work
with (HVAC/ industrial controls) is either moved or retired, none of
his phone numbers work. I trusted him...
I called a local contractor and got a big sales pitch on Trane and how
"these cheap Chinese AC's are worthless," and figured he wasn't the
guy to help set it up.
Contractor number two was pretty much the same story. He wanted to
charge the lines with nitrogen then come back three days later to
check for leak down... and said he didn't have the gauges for 410a
and if it leaked I'd have to buy him gauges.
I did take super care with my flare joints. They supply 15' and I
needed ~9. First 10 practice flares with the leftover tubing and I
had one that I would trust with my life (amateur MC mechanic/racer)
and one that would probably work. Harbor Freight tools.... Went to
the Auto Zone and got a proper flare tool and turned out 3 out of 3
and figured I was ready for the big time.
I live in North Carolina - I'd like to use a pro I could trust, but
watched some idiot pro auto mechanic take a hammer to my buddies BMW
cam shaft, some pro electricians confuse neutral and hot, and my own
computer under "in home" warranty (1992) with the pro plug in a
connector backwards (a "keyed" connector - hard to do). Those
experiences and being a sailor (you depend on yourself because that's
all you got most days)....
I take that as a sailer, you were either a deck ape, or an ops weenie....
neither of which is qualified on moving parts.
Sounds like the boneheads you talked to on the phone were the lowest priced
service call folks you could find, you also bought the cheapest mini-split
you could find. Its policy for my company that we will not install or do
start-up on any equipment that was not purchased through us strictly due to
warranty and liability issues.
FWIW, Mini-splits are charged at the factory for using a 30ft lineset.
Without pulling a proper vacuum on it before you cut the refrigerant loose
in the system, you now have the following....
1) Air, moisture, and non-condensible gasses in the system
2) The system is overcharged because you cut the lineset down
3) The moisture you left in the system will interact with the POE oil and
cause it to become acidic, and eat the insulation off the compressor
By the way... did I mention that you warranty is null and void??
Have a nice life cheapskate.
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