On Thu, 27 Jun 2013 20:08:14 -0500, Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl wrote:
OK. That's what I'll do. I've never really worked with this type of
tubing before. I will try to tape the ends together, but, I have about
80psi water pressure, so electrical tape might not hold.
Seems to me the simplest repair is to cut out the bad spots and insert
a piece of pipe nipple of the right size & a splotch of the right glue.
On Thu, 27 Jun 2013 22:13:41 -0500, Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl wrote:
Thanks for that pointer. I'll head on over to Home Depot and pick up
a few as I think all I need to do is repair this one major leak,
plus tie the tubing to the sprinkler, and, then, it should work.
I'll let you know how it goes - but it's too dark to do anything
tonight. (Had to work on the pool for hours - but that's another
Some are round holes, and others are cracks, yet others have multiple
puncture wounds, so, I'd say the line has been abused by rakes, high
water pressure (80psi) and animals.
One thing I noticed in the videos was that many people put a 30 psi
or even lower pressure regulator on their drip tubes.
Since my well system puts out 80psi, I should probably invest in one
of those - do you think?
Nope. There are two systems, separated by a huge backflow preventer
valve which pops up out of the ground in a reverse-U shape.
The first branch of well water feeds the irrigation and fire suppression
system; and then the second branch feeds the house.
I had done that, a while ago, and this is what had resulted:
But, by digging perpendicular to the bushes, I was able to uncover
two lines, one big and one small, which only had one open chewed
up end. So I put a garden hose connection on them:
It's a LOT of work to replace them, so, I am beginning to think
I will connect the bigger one to the irrigation valve which seems
to be feeding the missing end:
For that, I'll need to patch a few holes in the existing tube
already connected to the irrigation line:
So, how does this sound for the 'easiest' plan of action:
a) Take the existing 3/4" tubing which is already tied to the sprinkler
system and connect it to the 3/4" tubing that is under the oleander
b) One by one, patch the leaks, starting at the first, and moving
onward as they show themselves.
c) Then, figure out why there is a 1/2" tubing, which must have connected
somehow to the irrigation system; but I don't know how yet.
Well, I don't really know.
All I know, working backward, is that for "most" of the 300 foot
run, there is a 1/2" and a 5/8" poly pipe feeding the oleander:
Every once in a while, you can see them both on the surface:
As those two poly tubes get within 30 or 40 feet of the irrigation
valves, they suddenly pop up out of ground (I had put the garden
hose connections on):
I didn't dig up the irrigation valve, so, I have no idea how it's
hooked up, but, the 5/8" poly tubing which was broken at this point,
appears to continue along the oleander until it gets near the irrigation
valve. A foot away from the valve, it dives down, presumably to the
valve (which works, and sends water through the broken tubing):
Note: I dug around for a half hour looking for where the 1/2" poly
tubing connects to the irrigation system - and finally gave up on that
endeavor. Also, I can't tell if there is a pressure regulator on the
valve itself, as it might be buried, for all I know.
I guess I should pick up a pressure tester for garden equipment, to
On Wed, 26 Jun 2013 13:08:03 -0500, Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl wrote:
That is an option.
Something, I don't know what, seems to me that I'd prefer the permanence
of the PVC shutoff and *then* the less-permanent stuff, such as a
garden-hose thread which is then attached to the rather flimsy tubing.
But thanks for the idea as I hadn't thought of the shut-off valve,
which is just what I need.
Sounds like a plan! One thing I probably should mention is those glued
pvc sections come apart after being exposed to the weather elements day
after day. You might think it is fine and you have the water pressure
on the pipe, but the valve is shut off and come home from running errand
with the pipes blown apart. We've had to re-glue every section of pvc
pipe that we've ran throughout the yard so we could get a main water
line to the back yard garden and set up the drip irrigation.
Got a call from my neighbor today that one of those sections had come
apart and was producing a geyser in our back yard. He was kind enough
to turn off the water from the source vs me rushing home to turn it off
On Wed, 26 Jun 2013 18:31:16 -0500, Natural - Smoking Gun - Girl wrote:
Hmmm... they're not supposed to.
On a.h.r, we researched what destroys the PVS, and if you paint them,
the UV light doesn't bother them, and there's not much else that will.
Of course, earthquakes and trucks driving on the lawn would break
them - as do lawn mowers and weed whackers, but they are supposed to
last longer that we will.
Still, it's a good idea to paint them. Here's a shot of my recently
repaired pool equipment, for example, where I haven't painted the
new sections I put on last month to fix the leaks.
On Thu, 27 Jun 2013 04:15:16 +0000, Danny D. wrote:
More information on PVC which is supposed to last 100 years...
UniBell FAQ on Studies of PVC Pipe Performance Over Time:
The Effects of Sunlight Exposure on PVC Pipe:
Painting of PVC Piping for Ultraviolet Protection:
How to Use Acrylic or Latex Paint on PVC:
As Oren said, any and all white PVC that is sticking out of ground is
typically painted (usually black, but only because it absorbs
heat and is a cheap paint).
For example, here is my pool equipment; only the newly repaired
pipe is not yet painted black:
As Oren said, you're supposed to use acrylic (or latex) based paints;
but, in my case, I couldn't find any in the house, and, when I asked
pool guys, they said the petroleum is only there while it's wet, and
that they use whatever is on the truck, so, *maybe* it doesn't really
Note: For a larger size picture, substitute "img" for "640".
It's amazing how the glue lubricates it so that the pipe fits on
perfectly, and, yet it wants to pop back out - so I agree with holding
it for a quarter minute or so.
Yeah, but we need *that* stuff for fixing holes with just two
couplings and a center-pipe!
Or ... you use it in the four 90s method (which seems like overkill):
I was afraid of that. Thanks for the warning.
I'll try this procedure:
a. I'll try to pull the green part out of the 3/4" PVC pipe
b. If that fails, I'll cut the elbow off
and replumb with a new PVC coupling, elbow, & valve
c. Then I'll add the pipe-to-hose thread so it can be disconnected
when not in use (like when it's my compost heap again!)
To add to David's already comprehensive post, here is another online
tutorial about polypipe irrigation;
On Tue, 25 Jun 2013 05:32:56 -0500, The Daring Dufas wrote:
I'm not sure what chewed it up.
The whole thing predates me. I've been using it to create compost
from kitchen scraps, until my wife got the bright idea of actually
using the resulting mulch to grow tomatoes.
The funny thing was, no water came out of the thing (it only dripped
a bit at the early connections) so I had figured it wasn't working.
How wrong I was!
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