When the temperatures are consistantly 72o which makes the plants more
inclined to absorb the glyphosphates. To make it "stick" better, if you
don't have the "rain proof" RoundUp, add a tablespoon of liquid dish
detergent (what you use on your sink dishes, not the machine stuff) to the
batch you're making up (six ounces to one gallon, no more or much less as
it's a measured amount that actually works, since the rule of thumb would be
thought to be :"hmmm if six ounces is good, then twelve would be better..."
it's the precise amounts that work chemically. No flames please. It's what
they taught me in Master Gardening class...I'm NOT a chemist.
On the other hand, you're in Mississippi, it's already into the season
there, you should have used pre-emergents early in your season which I would
hazard to guess would have been in late February.......(not knowing your
growing zone) Preen, and pre-emerging weed killers work when the plants and
seeds are germinating early at the end of winter's rest. The RoundUp works
when the plants dormancy is over and growth is active, which is why I said
it works better when it's consistantly 72o F outside.
Hope this helps! (there is a newer batch of RoundUp out that says it works
overnight...........not sure, but worth a try, but read the mixing
madgardener in zone 7, Sunset zone 36, Eastern Tennessee
Roundup works best on mature plants. It works by poisoning the roots.
So if the sugars aren't flowing to the roots, it won't be as effective.
They always recommend using it when the plant is blooming, or at least
at the stage in the plants cycle after new growth is slowing and the
plant is storing sugars in the roots. It even works in the winter on
plants that can photosynthesize in cool temperatures and bright light.
The plants that comes to mind are the winter-blooming mints, henbit and
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to email@example.com
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA
the effectiveness of roundup greatly depends on species and growth
stage, but it defnitely does NOT work best on mature plants. It works
best on plants that are actively growing. You can use roundup at
temperatures much lower than the 72 degrees mentioned in a previous
post. It will take longer for it to kill the plants, but I assure you
it still works. In response to mad gardener, precise amounts do work
better, however, with roundup, a stronger soulution DOES make a
difference. I use roundup alot in the nursery and usually use a 2%
mix. This has little effect on things like nutsedge, horsetail, and
many perennial weeds. Upping it to 5 or even 10% makes a huge
difference and also makes it work faster.
If by "before the weeds grow" you mean before any foliage appears, Round-Up
is not a pre-emergent herbicide. It won't stop new weeds from growing. It
only kills existing weeds.
Round-Up is absorbed by the foliage, and then attacks the growth systems of
the plant. So it also won't work on weeds that are at the end of their
growth cycles, or are dormant. Round-Up works best when the weeds are
actively growing, or even flowering. And any Round-Up that doesn't stick to
the leaves is wasted. It does no good to wet the soil. It also does no good
to apply Round-Up, and then mow down the foliage before the weeds completely
On 16 Apr 2005 09:43:48 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
When plants are actively growing during a sunny day with no rain in
the forecast. I use it where it is difficult to hoe, hand pull or use
a weed eater. Recently I had to apply Roundup several times (2 weeks
apart) to an established poison ivy vine before it bit the dust.
:) >On 16 Apr 2005 09:43:48 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
:) >>Greetings! What is the best time to use Roundup - now [in middle of
:) >>April 2005] before the weeds grow or after the weeds have grown? I live
:) >>in Mississippi. With thanks.
:) >When plants are actively growing during a sunny day with no rain in
:) >the forecast. I use it where it is difficult to hoe, hand pull or use
:) >a weed eater. Recently I had to apply Roundup several times (2 weeks
:) >apart) to an established poison ivy vine before it bit the dust.
:) I use it to increase the frequency of disease, then I can buy a
:) fungicide to further poison my yard.
There's always the ole 20% vinegar route..ooops never mind it's a
class 8 hazardous material.
Consider why you may have so many weeds. Is it a case of neglect, wrong
grass type, wrong soil type?
Weeds are symptomatic of another problem, roundup will solve your issues but
non-chemical solutions are better for you, your land and your environment in
the long run.
Sorry to sound like an insufferable tree-hugger.
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