Grass is hard to ID, but just off hand, it looks like Nut Grass to me.
I've been pulling it out of my herb garden for years.
Sometimes there are "nuts" on the roots too, but even tho' they are
supposed to be edible, I've found them to be unbearably bitter.
Looks like Nut Sedge. Left to it's own it will spread by the underground
roots and also will spread by seed if left to go that far. Comes back every
year. It is tough to get rid of in the lawn. Pulling is one option but
that usually leaves the root and it comes right back. Last year in the
drought I had luck with Molasses and water. One cup in a gallon and soak
the area around the crown. Didn't seem to work this year I expect because
of the rain. IMAGE is made to take care of it and does a good job, may take
a couple of sprayings. The downside in the St Augustine is that it acts
like a growth inhibitor. The grass will stop growing where you spray but
will not be killed and will eventually recover.
Seems to be what its called. Appears easy to pull up from moist soil if I
can work my fingers deep enough in the St. Augustine next to it. Not a
whole lot there, primarily scattered. Knock it out in 1/2 hour easy.
Went to the accompanying weblink:
Had alot of Purslane in spring. I pulled it up. A little Pigweed here and
there. Think all due to sandy loam that I had brought in late winter. None
of these 3 are naturally occurring in my area that I've seen. Nightshade
is, but is not in my yard. Live NW of Wimberley, TX.
Purslane is supposed to be highly nutritious and edible, but I've never
I pull it all out every year and every year it comes back, with NO new
soil importation either! It just appears.
I'm wondering if I should just give in and use it as a food plant. ;-)
One mature plant can produce 240,000 seeds which are viable
for 40 years (Weeds of the Northern US and Canada).
It thrives in drought conditions and hoeing is not an
effective remedy. Almost any piece of the plant left to
touch the soil will re-root. It is hard to pull the complete
root of larger plants without loosening the soil first.
It is okay to eat as greens, but I don't need the whole
garden covered with it...
I totally understand. :-)
I weed it as aggressively as I do the bindweed (wild morning glory).
THAT stuff would take over the entire back yard if I'd let it, and the
seeds will lay fallow and come up after each rain (or watering) all year
Worth a try but I doubt you'll have much success. The tops & small
portion of the roots are very loosly connected to the nut. When you
pull on the top it breaks away from the nut which then forms a new
shoot. Nuts can be as deep as 18" so unless you've got really long
fingers, you'll probably leave the nut in the ground to resprout.
Chemical control is difficult also, yellow being slightly easier than
purple. Here's the recommended herbicides:
Sedgehammer for both yellow and purple.
Basagran or MSMA for yellow.
Image for purple.
(Note that roundup/glyphosate is not listed. It affects tops only but
not the nut).
Those three-ranked leaves are a clue it's a sedge, though I can't begin
to identify it from that photo.
I've successfully killed small populations of yellow nutsedge (Cyperus
esculentus) by putting on a cotton glove over a nitrile glove, and
then dipping finger and thumb into some glyphosate. Draw the leaves
of the sedge between finger and thumb.. then move on to the next plant.
Tedious, but effective.
I like your style Kay.
when you want what you want and are willing to work
to obtain it then the satisfaction of having it can
not be beat.
a small paintbrush provides excellent application control
when there are desirable plants located in such a way as
to make spraying impossible. but the technique requires
that you really want what you want.
I can't help but wonder what kind of lawn it'd make on it's own. (please
forgive me!) I have problems with a stompy dog where NOTHING will grow.
If this stuff is that tough, I wonder if it can survive a Border Collie?
I'm constantly pulling nut grass out of my herb garden so I do have some
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