Why won't this floor outlet box sit flush with the flooring?

The reason that box won't budge is becasue those L-shaped brackets you're describing are standard old-work clips designed for thin drywall, not thick subflooring and hardwood. When you bottom out those screws, you're hitting the physical limit of the bracket's travel. No amount of hammering is going to help because the box is likely wedged against the flooring material itself or the bracket is jammed.

And honestly, you're looking at a serious safety issue here beyond just the trip hazard. What you've got is a standard wall receptacle installed in a floor, wich is a major code violation in most jurisdictions. Standard wall plates aren't **load-rated**, meaning if someone steps directly on that hovering metal plate, it’s likely to snap or cave in, potentially exposing live wires. Floor outlets are required to be moisture-resistant and scrub-water rated for a reason. If someone mops that floor or spills a glass of water, a standard wall box will let that liquid drain straight onto the electrical terminals. I know it’s frustrating to spend the money, but you realy should stop looking at $20 beveled faceplates. Those are just a band-aid to hide a bad installation, and they still leave a bump in the floor that's going to catch toes or vacuum cleaners. You'll end up spending $20 now, hating how it looks, and eventually buying the right part anyway when the current setup fails or breaks.

Go grab a proper **floor box kit** from a brand like Arlington or Carlon. They usually run between $50 and $70, but they include the recessed box, the necessary gaskets, and a heavy-duty brass or nickel cover that sits truly flush. You’ll have to pull the old box out and probaly slightly enlarge the hole to fit the new housing, but it's the only way to get it level with the wood and make it safe for your home.

I had no idea about the scrub-water rating. I've definatly mopped around that area before without thinking twice! If I go with one of those Arlington kits, do they come with a template? I'm terrified of cutting into my hardwood and making the hole too big, because then I'm relly stuck. Also, are the brass ones actually stronger than the nickel ones, or is it just for looks? I don't want somethig that's gonna dent if I move a chair over it.

Most of those Arlington kits include a template, usually printed right on the box. When you're cutting into that hardwood, skip the jigsaw. Use an oscillating multi-tool with a fresh wood blade instead. It gives you way more control so you don't overcut and end up with a gap the plate won't cover. As for the finish, brass and nickel are essentially the same strength—it’s just aesthetics. One thing to watch for: check your subfloor thickness before you buy. If it's super thick, a round style kit might be easier because you can just use a hole saw. It makes getting a tight, profesional fit way easier than trying to square off a hole perfectly.

If you're worried about the hole size, trace the actual metal cover onto some painters tape first so you know exactly where your 'danger zone' is. Also, keep an eye on how much slack you have in the wire. When you pull that old box out, don't let the Romex slip back under the subfloor or you'll be fishing for it with a coat hanger for an hour. I’ve made that mistake more than once.

Honestly, $60 for a real kit is way cheaper than an insurance claim if a mop bucket spills over a standard wall box. It’s better to just do it right once.