I have a cherry type tomato in my green house that is FULL of flowers
yet not one tomato has set. Too hot? I have shaken them to pollinate,
they are hydroponic so the water is right, used the appropriate
fertilizer and everything else I can think of. I am in south eastern
North Carolina, zone 7ish. Any ideas? I have grown these same tomatoes
through the winter in past years so I know its possible.
I do not know what the humidity has been, heat in the 90ies. They are
called "Sugary" tomatoes. I have shaken the plants and we have had an
abundance of bees around here this year. I don't think it is
I never thought of that.Does that mean there is no hope? There is new
growth at the bottom of the plant. Should I just cut it off and use
that growth as a re start?
Cool them off, the next blooms may be fine. If you need more plants root the
new growth, if not just let it grow. Keep the day time temps well below 90F
and the night temps around 70F and you should start to see fruit.
Odds are Steve is correct, its heat. I think if you have not
experienced blossom drop & temps are cooling you should be OK.
Look closely @ the flowers, if they are in, or moving to, an upward
position and stay there for several days, they are ready for
pollination. Greenhouses typically are not the greatest environment
for pollination. Again, keep a fan blowing on a low speed, use bees
or some form of mechanical method.
Out of curiosity, what nutes are you using and what pH and EC or PPM
do you maintain during flowering? Also what type of hydro system?
I don't use anything different for various growing times. The formula
comes out of "Hydroponics, Soilless Gardening" y Richard E. Nicholls
Not sure what you mean by hydro system. It is a 7 pot grouping and I
use clay pellets for a medium.
Just curious as to the type of hydroponic technique you were using;
i.e. NFT, ebb and flow, etc. Yours a homemade system?
W/O benefit of the book, I assume Nicholls' is a variation of
Hoagland's. Have to say I'm impressed, not many folks mixing their
own these days.
General Hydroponic Water Gardens is the manufacturer, (looked it up).
Anyway there is a fill bucket and a pump that runs continiously. Hope
that helps. THre is really no other option than to mix our own. We
live in the middle of no where and shipping for that stuff is cost
prohibitive. We went to a farm supply place to get all the chemicals.
Had to buy them in pounds, use a coffee grinder and we are good. I cut
off all of the dead on the tomato plants, shook them up gently of
course and am now hoping for the best. Nice to talk to someone about
hydroponics and not have the conversation go right to "pot'
A idea, perhaps, for next year. It's September, and it's unlikely that
you would see any results from any such efforts this year before Dec.,
providing that you can keep them warm (I'm presuming that you are in the
Seed to Seed
POLLINATION, CROSSING AND ISOLATION
Tomatoes are inbreeding plants. Most modern tomato varieties have
totally retracted styles. Such flower structure severely limits (and may
totally preclude) any crossing between these varieties. Three groups of
tomato varieties have been found to have protruding styles, however:
currant tomatoes, L. pimpinellifolium; all of the potato-leaved
varieties of L. lycopersicum', and any fruit formed from double blossoms
on beefsteak types of L. lycopersicum. Potato leaved tomatoes have
rampant vines and smooth-edged leaves that resemble the leaves of a
Using a paint brush would allow you cross pollenate your tomatoes, if
you wanted to try your hand at breeding.
Still, if the blossoms haven't dropped, I would have let `em go. If
the pollen was “sterile”, there is a great possibility that not all
would be & you would have had enough pollen, at least for some
cherries to fruit.
Water under the bridge at this point. Still consider that it takes a
while for nature to adjust to change. If you cut back a reasonable
amount on a healthy vegetating plant it will go into a bit of “shock”
for a period then, usually bounce back. A flowering plant is a bit
harder to nurse back, if at all. With a seriously pruned plant you
may have the roots but your energy source was cut back. The majority
of hormones are geared towards fruiting, not rooting. For the
cuttings, your plant has to build roots. Regardless, takes time to
retool and revamp the production line to what ya need--- if it can.
Especially true in extreme temps from either end
If you’re not under day long lights, it will be very hard to convince
the plant it need to grow again. Don’t know what your PAR is where
you are at this time of year, but consider your plants energy
(sunlight) is waning. We are halfway down the downhill of the
solstice since June.
If you don’t use one, I do recommend you get a good meter to check
your pH and EC or PPM. Some solutions I found are quite high, i.e.
the one I use now ( a local 2 part mix ) directs 4 tspns per gal of
water & reads ~1500-1600ppm, way too high for young plants, much less
cuttings. As for pH, The more you keep the solution in the plant’s
optimum pH range ~ 5.5-6., the more essentials it picks up.
http://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ho/ho-237-w.pdf . Just make
sure the solution is for your clay and not wool. Lastly, I do
recommend you use separate growing and a flowering solutions for the
same reason some dirt grower do, more P-K & Ca. Still nothing wrong
with a balanced formula. Ya built a hotrod, why use regular gas?
We are expecting La Nina is coming this winter so reconsidering winter
toms, mescluns for sure. Still waiting for the raised bed regular
toms to mature, Orange cherries tough skinned but tasty & going
Yes I do. Up here its like cooking... ya learn to adapt and adopt
what ya got to get what ya want. Think I said that right.
Good Luck MJ
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.