Is there a door closer that waits a minute before it starts closing?

Nov 11, 2026 Last reply: 6 hours ago 5 Replies
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QuarryTony89

What you're describing does exist, it's called a delayed action closer. They're common on commercial and fire doors where you want the door to stay open for a bit, then close on its own. The catch is they're pricier than the basic surface closer on your door and most hardware…

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I roll my bike through the back door to the garage most mornings and it always turns into a juggling act. I crack the door open, wedge my foot against it, then shuffle the bike past while trying not to let the thing swing back on me. The closer on there now starts pulling the door shut almost immediatly, which is great for keeping the house sealed up but terrible when your hands are full.



It got me wondering if closers come in versions that basially park the door. Like, you push it open and it just stays there for 30 seconds or so, then gently finishes the job on its own. Does that actually exist, or am I imagining it? I've looked at the hardware store aisle a couple times and there are more types than I expected. Some look like they have a little valve or adjuster on the arm. Is that the kind of thing I'd need, or is there a simpler trick people use for hauling bikes through a door without propping it with a brick?


What you're describing does exist, it's called a delayed action closer. They're common on commercial and fire doors where you want the door to stay open for a bit, then close on its own. The catch is they're pricier than the basic surface closer on your door and most hardware stores don't stock them on the shelf, you'd be ordering one online. There are also hold-open closers that latch at around 90 degrees and only release when you give the door a firm push. Either of those would solve your bike problem, but they're a bigger job than most people want for a side door.

Honestly, the simpler fix for your situation is a kick-down door stop. It's a small bracket mounted low on the door with a foot pedal. Roll up, kick the pedal down with your toe, the door stays put, wheel the bike through, then kick the pedal back up or just nudge the door and the closer takes over. Since your foot is free while you're steering the bike, it fits your routine better than anything that needs a hand. About those little adjusters on the arm of your current closer, those control closing speed, not wheather it parks. You can slow the door down so it drifts shut gently, but it'll never sit open for you. Some closers also have a seperate latch speed screw so the final couple of inches don't slam. Worth tuning those anyway so the door isn't yanking itself shut the moment you let go. One more low-tech option since someone mentioned the rope trick: I use a hook-and-eye on my garage door for the same reason. Eye screw into the wall stud, a short length of rope with a loop on each end, slip one loop over a hook on the door and the other over the wall eye when I need it open. Costs a couple dollars. The downside is remembering to unhook it before the door slams, and with an exterior door you do want to build the habit of checking it every time, expecially in winter. If I were doing your door from scratch, I'd fit a decent sized closer with adjustable sweep and latch speed, plus a kick-down stop. Best of both worlds.

Seconding the kick-down stop suggestion. I put one on my back door a couple summers ago for hauling groceries and the dog in and out, and it's been solid. One thing I learned the hard way: mount it into the bottom rail of the door, not just the skin, because mine worked loose from all the foot traffic til I swapped the screws for slightly longer ones that bit into the rail itself. Also check the swing direction before you buy, some of them are handed for left or right opening doors and won't sit flat the other way.

I did the closer swap route on my shed door last fall and it worked out fine. Bought a surface closer with a hold-open position, push the door past about three quarters open and it stays put until I tug it back. Only headache was the mounting holes didn't line up with the old unit, so I filled the old screw holes with wood filler and redrilled. If you go that way, measure the hole spacing on your current closer before ordering, some manufacturers use the same footprint and it drops right in. Took me one afternoon with a drill and nothing else.

Before you buy anything, spend ten minutes turning the screws on the closer you alredy have. Mine was cranked from the factory so the door slammed in about two seconds. Loosened the main speed valve a couple turns and it now drifts shut slow enough that I've got time to walk the wheelbarrow thru beside me. Costs nothing if it buys you enough of a gap.

For the bike specifically, I got in the habit of rolling it in backwards so I'm pulling the bike while my hip pins the door. Sounds dumb but it beats juggling.

Update: tried the screw adjustment trick on the closer I already had and it made a real difference. Backed the speed valve off a couple turns and now the door drifts shut slow enough to walk the bike through without the foot juggling. Still annoying that it never fully parks though. For anyone using a hold-open closer on an outside door, does wind ever fight it?

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