Hand-Planed Shims and Soft-Close Drawers in an Entryway Organizer

Nov 07, 2026 Last reply: 19 hours ago 4 Replies
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When this cabinet is shut and loaded, it works as a complete landing zone for an entry: two push-to-open shelves take shoes, four cubbies accept baskets, and two soft-close drawers hold keys plus the odds and ends that pile up by the door. The outer case runs 40 inches wide, 29 inches tall and 19 inches deep, and dk builds drew it up for use at home.



Construction starts from PureBond hardwood plywood. A Ryobi circular saw riding a clamped guide broke down the sheets, then a cabinet table saw fitted with safety guards and stock guides ripped and crosscut the panels. Dados and rabbets went in on that same saw, with blade height set using a JessEm digital and ruler height gauge. The carcass and cubby dividers were glued, nailed, clamped and checked for square, and back panels went on after the glue-up.



Several details stand out to me. Veneer edge banding was applied with a household iron and trimmed flush with a block plane, while hand planes dressed the raw edges. To set the slides, thin shims were planed by hand, read on a digital caliper at roughly 0.094 inches, and fixed alongside the drawer slides with CA instant bond adhesive. A marking gauge and awl laid out the slide positions before pre-drilling, and a Japanese pull saw with a router plane notched the interior drawer dividers. The finished case wears Jojoba by Benjamin Moore, and the drawers run on full-extension ball-bearing slides with soft-close and push-to-open action.



Two things are worth flagging. A dado alignment error appeared at the carcass stage and was corrected there, which reads to me as honest work rather than a flawless run. There is also an open question around the plan set dk builds sells: the plans are described as being for a table, though the build is clearly an entryway organizer, and anyone buying would want that cleared up first.



Project by dk builds. Watch it on their YouTube channel:

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I am curious about the shim trick next to the drawer slides. Were those hand-planed shims tapped into place until the caliper read about 0.094 inches and only then hit with the CA glue, or was the thickness worked out beforehand? Setting slides against plywood always looks fiddly and I would love to know the exact sequence.

Applying the edge banding with a plain household iron strikes me as the sharpest call in the whole build. Pairing it with a block plane for trimming means the banding comes down slowly and evenly instead of being sanded overshort in spots. The trade-off is that iron-on banding needs consistent heat to stay put, but the payoff in clean panel edges looks well worth it.

One variation I would try on a future version: rather than cutting dados for every interior divider, push the partitions in from the back of the carcass and fasten them there. That would sidestep the kind of dado alignment slip that had to be fixed during the carcass stage, and it would make the cubby openings easier to resize if the basket layout ever changes.

On the slide setup, the maker used a marking gauge and an awl to lay out the positions, then pre-drilled them with a Ryobi cordless drill before screwing the slides into the inner divider panels. The shims were planed thin, measured on a digital caliper at roughly 0.094 inches and glued alongside the slides with CA adhesive. Anything beyond that has not been said.

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