Yeah, but you're getting into trick detailing because there are reasons for
"trim". Joint coverage is just one of them. Traditionally detailed
buildings tend to get thicker where they get more abuse, generally speaking.
Yes my trim/moulding and pocket door threads are related. I do use door
trims, but since I don't really like them, my trims and baseboards are all
plain 5" wide square edged lumber. However on door openings all the way on
one side (perpendicular to another wall), there is not much space on that
side to accomodate a 5" trim. In that case I am thinking I can do away with
trim completely around the doors instead of something asymmetrical. I
understand it's difficult and may be not the most practical but I don't see
What about holding the drywall back 5" and then flush mounting a 1/2" x ?"
(chamfered/radiuses inside edges?). To hide the drywall/trim seam put a
simple wainscot cap there. Then either paint the whole shebang to match the
wall or (IMHO even better) paint the 1x the wall color and the cap a nice
subtly different complimentary shade.
This will still be "casing" but (especially if painted to match the wall
color) will blend with the wall surface much better.
Another 2 quick ideas:
1. Use an extended jamb, very securely shimmed (and the shims all
recessed - not cut off flush with the jamb). Stop the drywall ~1/2" short
of the jamb. Insert a 3/4" or 1" corner moulding into the gap and tight to
the jamb to cover the end of the drywall.
2. Use an extended jamb with a daido groove for the drywall to die into.
It all boils down to there being lots of different options, but I would be
concerned with "non wood" solutions not being able to withstand normal wear
Yep, when I first typed up that post I had typed ' 1/2" x 5" ' but then
right before sending I decided that I'd leave the width up to the OP so I
changed the "5" to "?".
Depending upon the width, partial blocking or a full stud might need to be
installed. The OP doesn't want trim but he does need to understand what's
involved with anything not "standard". There's a reason why almost all
houses use casing of some kind/size. If he really wants to do away with it
then he's in for a lot of work and expense. If this was new construction
maybe it'd be worth it, but to go and retro-fit all existing window and
doors with his chosen "non-standard casing" choice will be costly and time
Yes, you hit the proverbial nail on its poor battered proverbial head ;)
No, seriously, that's a great example of what I'm picturing. THe shapes
would be fairly sim[ple, but more than just flat plates or square tubes.
((I'm not quite into the "industrial warehouse" sort of thing.))
THose sound like great pieces!
I tend to spend a lot on framing, because I have to like something a lot
to actually bother hauling my butt out to the framing shop <LOL!>
Seriously, tho', I go for people who do museum/conservationist-level
I bought some hand-colored copperplates from a Louisian artist - his work
is so fine that it looks like detailed pen-and-ink, and his birds (well,
of course, what'd you expect <L!>) are both artistic, *and* physically
accurate. So I was not about to put those into cheapshit frames!
The thing is that a high-quality frame both preserves and "completes' a
work of art. And adds to its value, tho' for me, the value is in my eye
and in my daily enjoyment of the peices that I make part of my life.
But that 5'-piece sounds great. I'm thinking of doing up a pic in tech-
pen and colored inks in a similar size - about 4.5' wide an dabout 22"
high, of lilypads, with one cream-colored waterlily (not to be conceited,
but I do good work when I sit my arse down and concentrate on doing it),
which I also want to frame in a brushed-metal type of frame.
ANyway, I think that a brushed-metal type of molding, clean/simple but
with a bit of shaping to it, could be great as molding. Again, tho', I
prob need to work it up in 3D ((gotta get back to doing that as the
health continues to improve!)) to see a more "concrete" example, if one
can call computer 3D "concrete" <g!>
I guess I'm just tired of white-painted fir or pine or whatever cheapo
wood gets used. Msot people ooh and ahhh over it, but what can I say,
I'm always wanting something unique...
True ;) I have no idea whether any of my things will increase in monetary
value (certainly not the clay work that one gang of a$$hole movers broke
=>:-p ), but I get things because I like them. Hell, I've even ramed a
couple of my own things ;) Frames can really tie a group of works to
gether, and/or tie them in with other works (sculpture and the like).
Since I do have a general "style", I don't worry about "matching the frame
to my decor", mostly because the artwork *is* the main decor ;) - and when
the art and frames andso on work together, the rest IMO falls into place
anyway, since I like fairly plain or at least clean-line furniture anyway.
I found a place locally that does some very nice work - they have example
saround the shop, and it's actually very interesting to see some of the
things they've framed - one item is an antique Victorian silver baby spoon,
which sounds a bit dopy but turned out to be very interesting, the way they
did it. They're definitely artisans, so it's worth it, to me, to pay a
bitmore, and get a really fine job done.
But yeah, it can cost a lot. The most expensive frame I've gotten done to
date was about $375 (with tax). But why pay for an original work of art
(esp. by a known artist) and then put it in some piece of cheap crap? All
that happens in that case is that, in addition to looking cheap, the work
becomes physically degraded...
I've moved more times than I have fingers and toes. I hate it. You have
to pack ALL of the valuable things YOURSELF. And I swear that they
purposfully bang around anything that has "fragile" writen on it. I have a
3'X2.5' stained glass window, and each time it's been moved, it's gotten
another crack in one of the glass sections. I think that nezxt time, i'll
pack it in a crate I make myself, and **FED-EX** it. I've never had any
computers or even plants <!> damaged by Fed-Ex, or UPS. But movers... ugh!
One group of morons took a piece of art ceramic and literally just put it,
unwrapped, into a box with tools and stuff. I mean, how stupid can a human
being be, and still walk on two legs...? It's just unbelievable. But the
absolute worst are the "corporate movers", where the company handles all of
the moving details - then they *really* don't give a sh*t, becuase they
know that they'll get pain no matter what.
I have stone tiled baseboards in the house I am in now while I am remodeling
the other one.
Speaking of the other house, there is no trim or mouldings on all exterior
doors, I never give it a thought until recently when I am gutting it out I
noticed the outside corners were all finished with 2x galvanized angles (not
corner beads), the drywall on one side and the wood door frame on the other
side were routed to the thickness of the angle to make it perfectly flushed,
then painted over to the same color as the door frame.
Is this a metal door frame (trim)?
So you get sheets of 4'x8'x7/16" plywood, say we use a width of 6", you can
rip six pieces of 6"x8'x7/16". The top side would be exposed I wonder how
you would finish it...would be too much trouble to veneer it, and quarter
rounds are no good.
also if rooms are more than 8' in lengths to avoid having to split the
baseboards in the middle of the room you have to get 12' boards or longer.
Sounds interestung I have a hard time visualizing this.
Can we expand on this thought a bit?
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