Why isn't my through-the-wall AC draining any water?

The 50% relative humidity you're seeing is actually right where most residential AC units bottom out. Most evaporator coils are designed to reach a temperture that pulls humidity down to that 45-50% range, but rarely lower. If you're hitting 50% in a top-floor unit during a muggy Denver stretch, the units are actually performing exactly as they should. Even though the percentage matches the outside air, the **absolute humidity** is much lower because cooler air holds significantly less water vapor than warm air. You've already removed a massive amount of moisture to keep it at 50% while dropping the temperature.

As for the lack of dripping, those GE units use a **slinger ring** on the outdoor fan blade. This is a common design where the fan picks up the condensate from the base pan and splashes it onto the hot condenser coils. This helps the unit run more efficiently by using the water to cool the coils, and the heat from those coils evaporates the water into the air before it ever has a chance to drip down the side of the building. In a dry climate like Colorado, even during a 'humid' summer, that water usally evaporates faster than it can accumulate. If you want to pull more moisture out, try dropping the fan speed to the lowest setting. High fan speeds move air across the cooling coils too quickly for maximum dehumidification. A slower fan gives the air more 'dwell time' against the cold metal, which forces more water to condense out of the air stream. But honestly, 50% is a sweet spot for indoor comfort and protecting your furniture or wood floors. Anything much lower and you'd likely start dealing with dry skin and static electricity. As long as the air coming out of the vents feels cold and the temperature in the condo is stable, your units are doing their job perfectly.

You sure those 12k units aren't a bit overkill for bedrooms? If they're hitting the temp goal too fast and shutting down, they won't have enugh runtime to acutally strip the humidity. It's called short-cycling and it's a total comfort killer. Also, check your window seals. If you're using the standard plastic sliders they come with, they're usally pretty leaky. I ended up using some extra weatherstripping and duct tape on mine last year 'cause I coud feel the hot air creeping in. Makes a world of difference when it's swampy out.

If you really want to kill that humidity, you need a unit with a dedicated dry mode. I switched my bedroom setup to a Midea U-Shaped AC and it’s a total game changer for moisture control. Because it’s an inverter, it doesn't just cycle on and off; it can run at a super low speed constantly, which pulls way more water out of the air than those standard GE units ever will. Even in a humid week, that Midea keeps my place feeling crisp rather than just cold and clammy.

While the previous points regarding the slinger ring and latent heat removal are technically sound, I would be remiss if I didn't suggest that you verify your actual coil delta T before assuming the units are operating at peak efficiency. Even if the 'slinger' is evaporating the bulk of your condensate, you should still observe a significant temperature differential across the evaporator, and if your return air is entering at 75 degrees while your supply is only hovering around 60, you're simply not hitting the dew point consistently enough to achieve the deep dehumidification you're seeking. I've found that in these high-altitude environments, people often overlook how localized microclimates within a top-floor unit can create pockets of stagnant, moist air that the thermostat never truly addresses.