Why is my Hisense dual-hose unit leaking from the bottom even when the drain plug is empty?

The issue you're describing with the Hisense AP1024TW1LA almost always comes down to a **clogged internal drainage channel** between the upper evaporator coil and the lower collection pan. These units are designed to be self-evaporating, meaning they splash water onto the hot condenser coils to evaporate it out the exhaust hose. But when the humidity is high, the system produces more water than it can vaporize. If there's even a tiny bit of dust or manufacturing debris in that internal path, the water backs up and starts overflowing the internal tracks before it ever reaches the bottom drain plug. You mentioned the compressor and lines look wet and 'sweating.' That's a huge red flag that your airflow might be restricted or the humidity is simply overwhelming the internal splash wheel. If the water can't travel down the intended path to the drain port, it just pools in the chassis and leaks out of the seams or the bottom overflow port. Even if the unit looks level, try **shimming the front** up about a quarter or half inch. Giving it a slight backward tilt helps gravity force that condensate toward the rear drain ports instead of letting it sit in the middle of the tray. Since you're alredy using the continuous drain hose and still seeing puddles, check that the hose isn't kinked and that the internal port isn't blocked by a plastic burr from the factory. I've seen plenty of these where a small piece of plastic flashing from the molding process partially blocks the hole. If you can, take a pipe cleaner or a zip tie and gently poke it into the drain port to make sure it's clear. If tilting it back and clearing the port doesn't stop the 'sweating' and leaking, you likely have a defective float switch or a cracked internal pan. Since it's only a month old, don't waste too much time playing technician. These portable units are notorious for having narrow tolerances for humidity, but they shouldn't be dumping water on your floor if the drain hose is connected. If a slight tilt doesn't fix it, haul it back for a replacement while you're still in the window.

Check the evaporator coils for frost. If those lines are sweating that hard, you might be looking at a low refrigerant charge or a restricted capillary tube. I’ve seen this on a few AP1024TW1LA units where the factory seal wasn't perfect. When the coil gets too cold, it turns into a block of ice and the melt-off misses the drip tray entirely, bypassed right onto the floor. If you see ice buildup behind the filter after running it on 'Cool' for an hour, don't even bother with the drain hose—it's a lemon. Swap it for a Midea Real Cool or a Honeywell before your return window slams shut.

Seen this a hundred times. These modern plastic portables aren't a patch on the old steel window shakers we used to install. If those lines are sweating that bad, check the internal insulation. Manufacturers today get real stingy with the foam wrap. If a cold line is exposed right over the edge of the pan, it'll drip straight onto the floorboards instead of into the tray. I used to keep a roll of cork tape in the truck just for sloppy factory jobs like this. If you're brave enought to crack the case, wrap any bare copper you see. Otherwise, stop fighting it and get your money back.

I'm totally new to this, so sorry if this is a dumb question, but how can I tell if the lines are 'sweating' versus actualy leaking from a crack? I'm seeing those same wet spots on the metal parts inside mine, but I didn't realize that coud cause a whole puddle on the floor. If I try the shimming trick to tilt it back, is there a risk of the water hitting the electrical stuff or the fan? I'm a bit nervous about breaking it further since I barely understand how the 'self-evaporating' part even works.

Honestly, stop wasting your time trying to patch up a budget Hisense. Those units are notorious for poor drainage engineering. I struggled with the same leaking issues for a month til I finally swapped it for a Midea Duo 12,000 BTU. The dual-hose setup manages heat and moisture way more efficiently, so it doesn't get that 'sweating' issue on the internal lines. It’s a night and day difference—I’ve run mine through 90% humidity without a single leak on the carpet. If you can still return that thing, do yourself a favor and upgrade to the Midea.

Quick update—I checked for clogs like suggested and found some gunk in the drainage channel, wich helped a bit. However, those lines are still sweating like crazy and the floor is still damp. If it's a low refrigerant charge like you mentioned, is that somethig I can actualy fix myself or shold I just give up and return it?