Zero Clearance Insert

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<<What do you imagine could happen that would make this method so unsafe? The insert is secure left to right by the throat opening. It's registered and resting on the rear lugs - all downward motion (as I mentioned, about 3/4") of the insert is stopped once it hits the forward lugs and by then it's fully secured by the front of the throat opening.>>
I imagine the leading edge of the spinning saw blade could catch the stock and send it spinning up and back ala kickback and startling the operator into a reflexive action resulting in one of those Sawstop hotdog demonstrations, only without the hotdog.
Lee
--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"



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Or the Mayo, or the Lettuce, or the Sawstop ...

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" What do you imagine could happen that would make this method so unsafe? The insert is secure left to right by the throat opening. It's registered and resting on the rear lugs - all downward motion (as I mentioned, about 3/4") of the insert is stopped once it hits the forward lugs and by then it's fully secured by the front of the throat opening."
This is EXACTLY the kind of thinking that resulted in my losing the dip joint of my left ring finger. I cannot believe anybody in this NG would give advice like this.
!!!!!TRUST ME, THAT IS THE MOST MORONIC PIECE OF ADVICE I HAVE SEEN IN PRINT!!!!
Things happen so quickly with your fingers so close to that spinning blade...
-- -Jim
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Jeez, you lost your dip joint? I hate that! Did it grow back?

Trust me, I've seen far worse.
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Better than loosing your PIP joint.
rhg
Tim and Stephanie wrote:

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how bout loading a smaller blade into the saw, then raise that into the fastened down throat plate, after this, you can put the ten inch blade back..?
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Infidelwillcrushyou wrote:

That's not exactly true; it's quite common. The proper response is to put a single dado blade in the saw, then raise that blade through the insert. Whereas a 10" blade doesn't have the clearance, a 8" blade shouldn't have a bit of trouble.
--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN

snipped-for-privacy@XXXXcarolina.rr.com
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Running a piece as small as an insert through a planner doesn't seem like a swell idea either.
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Use a sled. It'll be fine.
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woodcraftssuch writes:

But it's fast and simple to make a carriage for it.
Charlie Self "When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not hereditary." Thomas Paine
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On 28 Oct 2004 08:29:51 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@aol.comnotforme (Charlie Self) wrote:

What good would it do to make the insert thinner?
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Tom Watson asks:

Well, you'd have a thinner insert, which could then be drilled and tapped for allen head adjustment screws to lift it up level with the table top, after you were able to run the 10" blade through to make the ZCI. :)
Of course, doing the job with an 8" and then the 10", is much, much easier and works better.
Charlie Self "When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not hereditary." Thomas Paine
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On 28 Oct 2004 10:19:14 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@aol.comnotforme (Charlie Self) wrote:

OK. I make mine up flat, without adjustment screws, so I wasn't getting the point.
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Tom Watson responds:

Yup. Over-complicating the simple is sometimes fun (this probably wouldn't be one of the times, though).
Charlie Self "When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not hereditary." Thomas Paine
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<snip>
Then you should never read page 62 of the Popular SCience "200 Original Shop Aids & Jigs for woodworkers" book by Rosario Capotosto where he presents his Circular Work Edging Jig
Gracious me oh my! Comments such as that retort have no place in the world of careful reading and care in execution. If one has no comfort level in attempting a task, it's a no-brainer: don't do it!!!!
If you are comfortable in the care that's required, then take a stab at it.
I was taught how to lower a block onto a whirling blade by a Master better than 35 years ago. I use the same technique today. I AM comfortable with doing it -- it IS safe to do.
Those who do not understand the actual meaning of the word "ignorant" may take a seat at the back of the bus and (with great hope) never get off at a polling place.
-- Steve www.ApacheTrail.com/ww/ Wrong begins with Dubya~!~
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Do you suppose that the OP was capable of doing this on his own for the first time? It was an incredibly stupid piece of advice to give to someone who obviously had limited experience.
LD

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wrote:

This is generally the way I do it - you can also use the fence to ensure the insert is lowered parallel to the blade. An alternative is to mount a smaller diameter blade that allows the insert to be fully seated before turning the saw on but then you need to be sure both blades make the same kerf width.
--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
____

"To know the world intimately is the beginning of caring."
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Or, much more safely, mount a blade from your 8" dado set, and cut the slot most of the way through that way.
Or, also safely, install the factory Unisaw insert, and double stick tape the zero clearance plate over it. Then clamp the sandwich to the table top with a tubafor and a couple of clamps, and raise your blade slowly through the zero clearance plate.
I use these methods all of the time with shop-made zero clearance inserts. I'm really nervous about the method Steve recommends...
You may want to google the archives regarding these inserts. There was a good thread, humourous and informative, on making these yourself, sometime in the last year or so. Originated by Unisaw A100, I believe.
Patriarch
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patriarch wrote:

Good? Humorous? Informative? Me? I think it must have been that Greg Millen guy.
Anyways, for anyone wanting to re-read, here it is.
UA100
The following presumes you have a right tilting Delta Unisaw. Please make the necessary adjustments for your make of saw, insert thickness and blade tilt direction.
How To Make A Zero Clearance Insert With Splitter:
1) Go to Home Depot/Lowes and give an eye up to the stack of 1/2" MDF.
2) Find a sheet that hasn't been dinged by the fork lift tines during the twice weekly Warehouse Rodeo and Jousting Championship.
3) Wrestle the sheet off and onto one of the (insert color here) flat carts.
4) Wheel it back to the nice man at the Safety Speed-Cut panel saw.
5) Instruct him to make cross cuts at about 32". You may choose to use another size(s). Exercise this option now.
6) Load the cut sheets back onto the cart, stand in line, let everyone know how peeved you are that you are being made to stand in line, make an ass of yourself and then pay the nice people at the check out.
7) When back at the shop set aside one piece for a table saw sled to be built later. Set another aside for future projects or jigs and fixtures.
8) With the last piece begin ripping the sheet into pieces 1/16"ish wider than your table saw blade insert.
9) Cross cut the pieces 1/16"ish longer than your insert.
10) Make a template. Here's where people usually chime in to just use your present insert to make the new inserts. I prefer to make a template for reasons that will be made known shortly.
11) Start with your OEM insert and trace a line around it onto one of the MDF blanks.
12) Band saw (jig saw) the rounded ends off.
13) Go back to Home Depot/Lowes and buy some 3M (Scotch) No. 4011 Exterior Mounting Tape. It has a proper amount of tackiness but isn't so think that the template/item being cut will shift thus spoiling the cut.
14) Double face tape the MDF to the OEM insert with 4-pieces of tape 1" long. Press together using hand pressure.
15) Load router table with router bit having a bearing on top. Raise bit until the cutter is a red cubic hair or so above the thickness of the MDF.
16) Run the MDF/OEM insert sandwich into the bit and trim off all edges and ends.
17) Go back to Home Depot/Lowes and purchase a box of 1/2-8 flat head Phillips sheet metal screws.
18) Using the OEM insert to locate, drill and countersink the face of your template for four of these screws.
19) Insert screws so that points just peek out by 1/32"ish.
20) Using this template take another of the MDF blanks and press the pointy end screw side onto the blank.
21) Rout off the excess as you did above with the template and OEM insert.
22) Rinse and repeat until all blanks are routed.
23) Drill and countersink the face of the MDF insert for leveling screws. Step 20 will have pre-located these for you. Insert 1/2-8 flat head Phillips screws into freshly drilled and countersunk holes so tips are just coming through.
24) Into the edge of each template drill and countersink a hole for a 3/4" course thread drywall screw of other screw of your choosing. Do the same with one screw on the end of the MDF insert. Be sure to oversize this hole so the screw does not split the MDF. This screw hole is not structural.
25) Insert screws into freshly drilled and countersunk holes.
26) Place MDF insert into blade opening in table saw. Check for fit. Adjust leveling screws so insert is flush with the saw table. Adjust the edge screws in or out for perfect snug fit.
26) Repeat the above with three blanks for every saw blade you own, i.e., you have four blades then fit up twelve inserts.
27) Using your dado set place onto the saw arbor the two outside cutters.
28) Insert MDF insert into blade opening and park the saw fence over it but to the wide side away from the line of the dado set below.
29) Raise dado set until the cutters are just starting to bulge through the face of the MDF insert.
30) Repeat until all inserts are done.
31) Replace dado cutters with your saw blade and repeat the raising through though this time raise the blade as high as it will go.
32) Carefully measure from the fence side face of the saw blade to the fence side edge of the insert and set saw fence at that setting.
33) Feed one of the inserts into the saw blade for 1 1/2". Stop and withdraw.
34) Set up porty planer and begin planing stock to a thickness that matches the kerf made in the last step. Note: Don't presume that you only need to plane the wood to the advertised blade kerf unless your saw has zero run out.
35) Cut and fit the freshly planed stock into the kerf. Let it stick out a minimum of 1/4" plus the thickness of whatever material you expect to be cutting, i.e., for 3/4" material you will want this to stand 1".
36) Glue freshly trimmed, freshly planed stock into kerf slot in the MDF insert. When dry, insert MDF insert into saw blade opening and rip a piece of wood. Check to see that there is no gap between the wood and the freshly glued, freshly trimmed, freshly planed stock.
37) Repeat until all inserts for all inserts are done.
38) Set aside balance of insert blanks to be used at a later date or for when you set up for dado cutting.
39) Post your horrible experience at Home Depot/Lowes on rec.woodorking and make an ass of yourself.
UA100
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On Mon, 25 Oct 2004 06:06:22 GMT, patriarch

I've never had one that I couldn't lower the blade enough to miss, but if I did... I might try the partially installed insert thing like the answer that scared everyone, but with your 2x4 method... at least my hand(s) would be a few feet from the blade in case the insert bound or something..
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