WORKSHOP BUILDING COSTS

LOOKING TO BUILD A WORKSHOP/GARAGE AT HOME, JUST GOT AN ESTIMATE, 24X32 BUILDING, DOUBLE CAR GARAGE. CONCRETE SLAB, WITH SMALL LOFT OVER ONE SIDE. ESTIMATE WAS 27,000 COMPLETE, BUT WITH NO ELECTRIC (EXTRA), AND NO HEATING/ AC SYSTEM (AGAIN THIS IS EXTRA). LOCATION IS IN THE SALISBURY NORTH CAROLINA REGION. DOES THIS PRICE SEEM OVERPRICED? ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED.
STEVE
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HOPE YOU CAN HEAR ME.
WHAT KIND OF CONSTRUCTION? Metal? Wood frame? Stone? I saw a prefab with no foundation included for about $14,000. OTOH, I saw a stone building the same size that was over $300,000.
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I just built a 20x26 with 8/12 pitch and 20x12x7.5 attick space. included foundation, structual and vinyl siding and soffit complete with doors and windows in Wisconsin for 14,000 dollars

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steve screams:

Possibly overpriced. But check it out with more local home builders: that's a bit over $35 a square foot. If all you're getting is a slab and a basic frame building, without electricity or heat, it seems kind of rough for Salisbury (which should be fairly similar to the Roanoke/Lynchburg, VA area a couple hours away).
I've got a friend who got a 32' x 48' building on a full basement, frame construction, brick veneer front wall, vinyl siding sides and rear, 2x12 joists on 12" centers, 10' ceiling, insulated, OSB interior walls, a whole bunch of windows, one overhead door on the main floor, two in the full basement, two exterior doors on the main floor, one in the basement, open span for about $40,000. He did the heat and electricity himself.
Charlie Self "America does not go abroad in search of monsters to destroy. She is the well-wisher to freedom and independence of all. She is the champion and vindicator only of her own." John Quincy Adams
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Doing the work myself with the help of some weekend beer cronies, I am in the process of a 26x 32 with 10' rafter ceilings (no storage above) on slab with radiant heat tubes in the concrete 2x6 insulated walls, with vinyl over OSB. 1, 8' overhead and a 3-0 service door. I have the outlets boxes and romax as well as the 200 amp service panel already and I'm about $8600 into it. It will cost another $400 for the 200amp service run and I easily have a grand in beer keeping the help payed up.... $10k and I really am not cutting corners. Get two more estimates!
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I just built a 24' x 30' workshop with slab here in Missouri for about $15,000.00. I had Tuff Shed do the building. I did the painting, electrical and interior myself. I am happy with the result.
Alex
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Actually sounds about right, might be less expensive if you get it unfinished for the interior and do that your self - even then, figure on close to $20k
John
wrote:

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steve wrote:

One way you can save on heating installation cost is to use an in-window heat-pump. I use a one and a half ton heat pump from Friedrich and it does a great job of heating and cooling my 25x25x12 workspace and is very economical. I live in Chapel Hill, NC so conditions would be similar to yours.
Specifics are: Friedrich YM18J34A, $759 at Discount Maven http://www.discountmaven.com/ym18j34a.html
TWS
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SIDE.
HEATING/
I did an estimate about a year ago for some people for about the same size building that included the same plus electrical (100 amp sub panel from the house). I was right about $26,000. Building products have went up about 10% in my area (Oregon) since then so I would probably be in the $29,000 range now (including electrical). However, I drove by about 3 months after I gave the people the estimate and the shop was built. Sooo, I spose it could have been done for less. SH
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Completed this summer in Utah a 24' x 26' w/10' ceiling, 2 three foot square windows, personnel door and 9' x 10' insulated garage door. Contractor also did insulation and sheet rock on ceiling. Siding on the exterior to match the house. Total cost $11,450.
The contractor I used only does garages. Some of the expense was saved by doing a monolithic pour on the concrete, this is where the footings/foundation and slab all done in one pour. If the building is not attached to the house this is allowed by the local building code. Other bids with a full foundation were $16,000 to $17,000 range.
My oldest son is an electrician so we did that work. We ran #2 underground cable from the house to the shop (85' of cable almost $300) and installed a 100 amp service. Two 220 circuits, one for table saw one for dust collector. Wired for thermostat and ceiling hung furnace (not installed yet). Seven 8' high output florescent light fixtures ($42.00 each - h/o bulbs $90.00 for box of 15). With wire, outlets, fixtures and etc. the electrical was about $1000
My sons and I did the sheetrock and insulation on the walls. Used 12' x 4' x 5/8" sheetrock on side (damn they are heavy). Insulation, sheetrock, tape, mud, paint, base and door trim about $800.
I have a 40,000 btu ventless propane heater that I'm going to try first for heat. If the smell gets to me then I'll probably have to spend about $1,000 for a furnace. My sons and I will install that (I'm a plumber). Next summer, refrigerated air conditioning $500.
I retire in three years, just getting ready:-)
Tom Lewis

SIDE.
HEATING/
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... snip of some good stuff. Good luck to you -- sounds like a very cool shop.

You may need to re-budget your refrigerated air. For the size of shop you have, you are going to need a 2 ton A/C unit. The best buy I found for a good quality 2 ton window-mount (I mounted mine in a wall) A/C was about $750.

It's always good to be prepared. :-)

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You should not have any smell. Depending on the temperatures you see, 40k may not be enough. I have a 30k in my partially insulated detached garage. When the temperature is in the teens, I'm in the house rather than the shop.
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Mark & Juanita wrote:

Steve, I've done exactly what Mark & Juanita suggested, I've installed a one and a half ton window mount heat pump in my 25x25x12 garage/workshop in Chapel Hill, NC. The unit is from Friedrich, YM18J34A, and works very well in both the winter and summer in NC. It cost me about $750 plus shipping. I bought it from a place called DiscountMaven, in NY I think. All I had to do was run the 230 volts to it.
TWS
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for
$1,000
for
about
Not if his son can get it wholesale, which looks like it by the prices he is giving. A little low perhaps, but price depends on the brand and quality, and if he can get a deal on slightly damaged equipment. If he is going to contract it out he is way out of the ball park! I do HVAC work for a living. When I replaced my furnace in my shop I bought a new damaged furnace for less than 1/2 my regular cost, scrouged a two year old AC unit we were going to toss, and some duct work. I got forced air gas heat and central air for about $500. No way any one can get it done that cheap without some good connections! My cost would have been over well $1500 other wise. Greg
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Neighborhood two story was bought by somone in the "trades" and had quite an array of connections for improvements. Two years after purchase it was hard to recognize. Gossip claimed the net cost which is not relevent here that was VERY low for improvements made. That was on the cusp of the rapid increase in RE values that have exploded recently. Look around and take advantage of networking.
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was off line for a few days. thanks for the replies. I am already looking into a few other builders. a bit more information, the original estimate was without drywall, or any finishing, and did not include any wiring, boxes etc. nor did it include insulation. I had planned on doing these things to "save money".
steve

SIDE.
HEATING/
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superpac wrote:

Definately get more estimates etc. If you decide to do your own finishing then be sure to look at the cost of the materials first. Drywall has gone up and so has insulation since I got prices in April for finishing out a room. Still cheaper to do it yourself I'm sure but you never know what sort of deal a builder will give.
My shop is small by comparison (12x16) and I did it all myself. Cost me $2200 total. Grandpa
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