What to use under ipe (ironwood, etc.)?

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Hello all. I'm working on an arbor to "frame" a set of French doors on the front of our house. It is a simple design of Craftsman/Asian influence. I've worked with Ipe before on an outdoor bench and table. At local lumberyard I can get nominal 1 x 4 and 1 x 6 boards. I've poured two footings using sonotubes and have sunk J-bolts for 4 x 4 Simpson brackets for the two posts. My idea is to use either pressure treated or redwood milled to 3" x 3" and then wrap 1/4" ipe edge mitered on top, Gorilla glued and brad nailed. My question is for the "base" lumber, would it better to use PT or redwood. I could use my thickness planer to mill a 4x4 piece of redwood to 3x3. Or I could rip redwood 2x4 to 3" wide and laminate two together. Or I could rip PT 2x4 to 3" and laminate them to make a dimensional 3x3. After the post situation is solved I've got the rest of the design and construction figured out. I'm going to use Penofin oil to "seal" the ipe. TIA for your help.
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It is not possible to glue ipe.
On Tue, 9 Jun 2009 10:08:30 -0700 (PDT), dale martin

Tom Watson http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1 /
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It's a good thing I didn't know that when I did quite a bit of ipe gluing on a deck five or six years ago.
The wood was sold as "Ipe" from Ipe Depot. It was glued with Titebond II immediately after jointing. I may have wiped some of it with solvent, but I don't think I was consistent on it. None of the glue joints are structural, but are on horizontal, flat deck boards fully exposed to midwest weather. Five or so years later, the glue line on some joints is visible, but all joints still appear to be sound.
I also wrapped the edge of a round part of the deck with 1/4-inch ipe, glued with construction adhesive. It, too, appears to be holding up well.
We'll see what the next five years bring.
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Ah yes, I did some testing of many adhesives a few years back for an extreme application, wood to stone, and now I always keep a tube of the winner, liquid nails, around for those odd jobs where I need a quick permenant fix.

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On 6/9/2009 11:18 AM SonomaProducts.com spake thus:

Please don't top post. You'll notice hardly anyone here does.
--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism

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piss off
On Tue, 09 Jun 2009 11:37:37 -0700, David Nebenzahl

Tom Watson http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1 /
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On 6/9/2009 11:47 AM Tom Watson spake thus:

Ah, yes, the typically helpful, reasoned response from a stubborn top-poster.
Right back atcha.

--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism

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Why not top post? I was thinking some of those pyramid shaped copper caps. I think they would look good against the ipe.
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

ROTFLMAO! Great rejoinder!
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

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I agree. But you've really got to be wet behind the ears if you think this request will accomplish anything.
Or badly in need of a life if you know this won't accomplish anything but feel compelled to try.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

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Maybe its just the reader that I use but I hate it when folks don't top post. I'd rather read than scroll. I'd rather write than scroll.
I suppose I am blockable if you are so set against it.
No offense taken nor intended, just exercising the same freedom you exercise to complain.

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SonomaProducts.com wrote:

Personally, I don't care one way or the other with the following caveat...
It makes sense to bottom post, in order to see everything in order. However, I get so sick of people not editing their posts. You have someone who replies to *and quotes* an entire "six page" post, only to say, "me, too!"
In the case of this (my) post, I deleted the repeat crap that everyone's read, anyway (if they're following) and left only the pertinent info to which I am referring. If they're new to the thread, they can go and read all the other posts, like everyone else did.
I have found that most "non-editing, six page quoters" are using a web-based repeater forum like google-groups or any of a dozen others. And it seems they can't figure out how to delete and quote properly using the web-based thingie.
OR, people are on a regular newsreader and are just too fricken lazy and inconsiderate to edit their posts.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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I read the group from a tree view and I can see who responded to what and in what order so I don't need all the context, inline, over and over again. I guess if you are reading from email or some other method it just makes sense. (Top posted).

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SonomaProducts.com wrote:

--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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I totally agree if it is a single answer response.
wrote:

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Please don't play net nanny, contribute or keep quiet.

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Oh really? :)
<<...snipped...>>

--
There are no stupid questions, but there are lots of stupid answers.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
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wrote:

I'm glad you've had a good experience with it.
I suspect that, as it says in a couple of the posts on the WoodWeb thread, that the species you are getting in the midwest are different than what we are getting locally.
What we get is extremely oily and the oil bleeds to the surface soon after it is worked or wiped with denatured alcohol or acetone.
We've tested isocyanurates, various epoxies, West System, TiteBond III, etc. We've tried the Timesaver with 60 and 80 grit and we wiped with both denatured alcohol and acetone. We were unable to get a bond that we could trust for gluing up for width or thickness.
The last job we did was 4000 bd ft for a roof top screening job in Manhattan and we just decided that we couldn't afford the exposure of gluing up. So we paid beaucoup bucks to get the stuff in thicknesses and widths that we could use without gluing up.
I like Ipe and it gets used a lot in city work because it has the same fire rating as concrete and steel. It's also damned near as hard and hard on tooling.
Regards,
Tom Watson http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1 /
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I have worked with Ipe quite a bit and find that the glue that "looks like" and "screws like" a "Pocket Hole Screw" works pretty good. :~)
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On Wed, 10 Jun 2009 15:09:17 -0500, "Leon"

Heard that!
We even thought about using sliding dovetails to join the sticks up into panel widths.
Once you start thinking like that it's time to do some more thinking.
Regards,
Tom Watson http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1 /
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