What to use under ipe (ironwood, etc.)?

[dale martin]

Hello all. I'm working on an arbor to "frame" a set of French doors on the front of our house. It is a simple design of Craftsman/Asian influence. I've worked with Ipe before on an outdoor bench and table. At local lumberyard I can get nominal 1 x 4 and 1 x 6 boards. I've poured two footings using sonotubes and have sunk J-bolts for 4 x 4 Simpson brackets for the two posts. My idea is to use either pressure treated or redwood milled to 3" x 3" and then wrap 1/4" ipe edge mitered on top, Gorilla glued and brad nailed. My question is for the "base" lumber, would it better to use PT or redwood. I could use my thickness planer to mill a 4x4 piece of redwood to 3x3. Or I could rip redwood 2x4 to 3" wide and laminate two together. Or I could rip PT

2x4 to 3" and laminate them to make a dimensional 3x3. After the post situation is solved I've got the rest of the design and construction figured out. I'm going to use Penofin oil to "seal" the ipe. TIA for your help.

[Tom Watson]

It is not possible to glue ipe.

Tom Watson

[Tom Watson]

Tom Watson

[ed_h]

It's a good thing I didn't know that when I did quite a bit of ipe gluing on a deck five or six years ago.

The wood was sold as "Ipe" from Ipe Depot. It was glued with Titebond II immediately after jointing. I may have wiped some of it with solvent, but I don't think I was consistent on it. None of the glue joints are structural, but are on horizontal, flat deck boards fully exposed to midwest weather. Five or so years later, the glue line on some joints is visible, but all joints still appear to be sound.

I also wrapped the edge of a round part of the deck with 1/4-inch ipe, glued with construction adhesive. It, too, appears to be holding up well.

We'll see what the next five years bring.

[SonomaProducts.com]

Interesting problem. I was going to suggest West System T88 epoxy instead of Gorilla glue because every test I have ever seen puts Gorilla at the bottom of the list of wood glues. If Tom is correct that ipe won't glue then this is a tough one.

I think whatever you do for internal post is OK, RW or PT, just minimize possibility of standing water at the base.

I think maybe epoxy and finish nails gunned into the post and to seal the edge miters. Another option would be to add some exposed fastners. Maybe square headed, hand forged lags like these http://www.blackbearforge.=com/fasteners.htm.Not as clean of a look but can work well with the asian\craftsman look. I envision two rows up each face at maybe 18" vert spacing.

Another acceptable c> Hello all. I'm working on an arbor to "frame" a set of French doors on

[SonomaProducts.com]

[David Nebenzahl]

On 6/9/2009 11:18 AM SonomaProducts.com spake thus:

Please don't top post. You'll notice hardly anyone here does.

[Tom Watson]

piss off

Regards,

Tom Watson

[David Nebenzahl]

On 6/9/2009 11:47 AM Tom Watson spake thus:

Ah, yes, the typically helpful, reasoned response from a stubborn top-poster.

Right back atcha.

[dalemartindesigns]

Why not top post? I was thinking some of those pyramid shaped copper caps. I think they would look good against the ipe.

[alexy]

ROTFLMAO! Great rejoinder!

[alexy]

I agree. But you've really got to be wet behind the ears if you think this request will accomplish anything.

Or badly in need of a life if you know this won't accomplish anything but feel compelled to try.

[SonomaProducts.com]

Maybe its just the reader that I use but I hate it when folks don't top post. I'd rather read than scroll. I'd rather write than scroll.

I suppose I am blockable if you are so set against it.

No offense taken nor > On 6/9/2009 11:18 AM SonomaProducts.com spake thus:

[Lew Hodgett]

Most over priced and under peckered adhesive you could choose IMHO.

You have a much better choice, thickened epoxy.

one product. You are paying for convience; however, System 3 makes good stuff.

Just went over this with Tom Watson.

IPE is tough to bond; however, it is doable.

Rough up the IPE with some 40-60 grit on a ROS, then coat with laminating epoxy penetrating roughened surface.

Wait a few minutes, then apply fairing putty.

Wait 48 hours before trying to stress joint.

The secret is to get the laminating epoxy to lock into the IPE fibers, then have the fairing putty bond to the laminating resin.

BTW, strictly personal preference, but would not use pressure treated lumber in this application, at least not the crap I've seen.

Have fun.

Lew

[-MIKE-]

Personally, I don't care one way or the other with the following caveat...

It makes sense to bottom post, in order to see everything in order. However, I get so sick of people not editing their posts. You have someone who replies to *and quotes* an entire "six page" post, only to say, "me, too!"

In the case of this (my) post, I deleted the repeat crap that everyone's read, anyway (if they're following) and left only the pertinent info to which I am referring. If they're new to the thread, they can go and read all the other posts, like everyone else did.

I have found that most "non-editing, six page quoters" are using a web-based repeater forum like google-groups or any of a dozen others. And it seems they can't figure out how to delete and quote properly using the web-based thingie.

OR, people are on a regular newsreader and are just too fricken lazy and inconsiderate to edit their posts.

[SonomaProducts.com]

[-MIKE-]

I can read in whatever fashion I choose.

My email application can configure the posts, in threads or by date.

I prefer to read them by date, so the recent ones just show up on top.

(middle posted)

[Leon]

Please don't play net nanny, contribute or keep quiet.

[Leon]

Untreated Ipe is reported to have a 50 year out door life expectancy, why not use it under itself?

[Leon]

I totally agree if it is a single answer response.

I suppose I am blockable if you are so set against it.

No offense taken nor > On 6/9/2009 11:18 AM SonomaProducts.com spake thus: