As you know I am a newbie. I have a table say, and just got a router
and table for Christmas. SO please for give my basic questions.
I have someone that works at a wood flooring plant that got me some
wood that were quality check pieces. The were dried in a kiln of the
company. The ar erough sawn or seem to be. Can you tell me what they
are and if they would be good for projects? They are varying widthe
between 6 inches and 10 inches. They are all 1inch thick. I am guessing
white oak but may be wrong.
Here are pictures I took:
I guess I cant do much with them because of being rough sawn. I am very
tempted to buy a small 12 inch planerr at Lowes. (Delta) I know it is
probably not the best but all I can afford. Would really like a jointer
too but can not afford both. I know they make a planer/jointer but the
widest they seem to do is 6 inches.
Not sure what I want to get into but have lots of things around the
house I need. First thing I would like to make my mom and wife a
project in a book I boght. It was a drawer that had a butcher block on
top of it. the drawer held you knives. I'd like to finish it the same
as my cabinets. (Can you tell me what type of wood my cabinets are?)
There are also larger projects I would like to do like a bookshelf and
an entertainment center and some cabinets for my garage.
One last thing. I have bought some woodworking books and one of them
said you can finish and true an edge of a board with a router and
table. Is this true and could this be use dinstead of having to buy a
Again, thanks for your help and advice!
There are many ways of jointing a board. The one with the router table is
more of a pain to set up than it's worth. I often do it with a router using
either a straightedge clamped or taped to the top of the board with top
bearing bit or I clamp the board to my bench, overhanging the edge a bit and
use a bottom bearing bit against the edge of the bench. You only need one
strait edge to run against the tablesaw fence. Years ago, a jointer in the
home shop was a rarity, though many people did fine work. Now, everyone
seems to think you have to have one. I don't and unless someone gives me
one, I probably never will. The planer is worth having though. Surfacing
boards without one is a pain.
You can see ray flecks in the end grain of some of the boards so those
are definately oak. It would be no surprise if there were some ash
in. It is not uncommon for red and white oak to be mixed together.
Red oak is porous, white is not. If you can take a small piece and
blow air through it like a straw, it's red oak. Also if you wet it and
it stinks like dead fish, it's red oak. Now you know why they age
wine in white oak barrels.
Its eas to joint boards with a hand plane. Google for Stanley #7 or
#8, #607 or #608 planes. Millers Falls, Sargent, Winchester, Ohio
Tools, Union, old Records, Old Stanleys, Keen Kutter, and Fulton
are all good planes. You can also get a new one from Lie Nielsen,
for about the price of a power planer.
Looks like oak. Tough to tell from the pictures, but I would guess red oak.
It is always a good idea to build a project for the wife. It has a way of
freeing up some funds for new tools sometimes:)
The cabinets pictured are red oak. However, you do not want to use red oak
as a surface for a butcher block as it is very porous and will absorb food
juices and become rancid over time. You want a closed pore type of wood
such as hard maple or walnut for a butcher block.
You can use a router with a straight bit that has a bearing on it (sometimes
called a pattern bit) with along with a straight edge to joint a board. I
am unsure about what they mean by table, maybe they are suggesting using a
table edge as the straightedge?
If I could offer some advise, check out the books by Tage Frid. There is a
book called "Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking" which is a two part unabridged
addition of a couple of his earlier books. He has a way of showing how to
do things in a very simple and do-able manner without major capital
investment and without a lot of unnecessary crap. He was a highly respected
woodworker and you won't find many who will disagree with his advice.
Edge on a router, yes. Face on a router, no. Not without tons of work.
For the edge, all you need is an adjustable outfeed fence...run a foot
or so of the edge, move the outfeed fence out so it meets the cut edge,
run the rest of the board.
You can still do it without an adjustable outfeed fence but you have to
set up to take off a predetermined amount then clamp something with that
predetermined thickness (piece of formica, e.g.) to the outfeed fence
instead of just moving the fence.
As far as joining/reducing the thickness goes, I have a 3/4 x 4" router
bit I used occasionally for that, setting the router up horisontally and
using formica to support the cut bottom. PITA but I didn't have a
joiner at the time and it worked OK for narrow boards once in a while.
The other way involves building a jig with two long sides, each side
identical to the other. The board to be surfaced is secured between
them, a router is mounted on a stout board that will span them when the
router is at one side; put as wide a cutting mortice bit as possible in
the router, move it to across the board, move it a cutter's width
forward, move across board again. Keep repeating until board is
surfaced. Since you should only be cutting 1/8 or less in depth, the
entire procedure may need to be repeated several times. You'll wind up
(after a long time) with a board that has one true face. Go buy a
There are also the rotary "planers" meant for a radial arm saw or drill
press. They work similarly to the above but cut a somewhat wider swath.
Leave a coarse surface too. Go buy a joiner.
As long as I'm at it, I have also used an 8" softpad with coarse
sandpaper mounted on a RAS horizontally. Works pretty well - better
than a rotary planer - but makes absolutely *TONS* of sawdust. Go buy a
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Three basic tools are needed to do "most" woodworking.
(1) table saw
Dealing with "rough cut stock" requires the above.
If you choose to use sized stock, which is already
planed, jointed and flat, then you can do with less.
Many beginners begin the journey with plywood which
does not require a planer or a jointer.
A table top planer can be a fine investment and will
"almost" pay for it self in the first major load of
rough sawn stock you size with it.
The jointer is used for another type operation and can
not be easily replaced by any other tool. If you are to
have flat, square stock, a jointer is almost required.
A 6" jointer can be had for less money and is used by
a great many people. I would save up for a 8".
Woodworking is a continuous purchase to get setup.
Spend wisely and you will be ready to go in a year or two.
A quick check on Ebay finds many nice little jointers in the
300-400 range. Shipping becomes an issue with large tools but
you might get lucky on location.
Sun, Jan 8, 2006, 5:08pm (EST-3) firstname.lastname@example.org (stryped) needs to
<snip> I have someone that works at a wood flooring plant that got me
some wood that were quality check pieces. <snip>
Were they free? Free wood is always popular.
You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear".
What do you "know"?
- Granny Weatherwax
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