Waterproofing hardwood floor for kitchen

[DB]

I think I want to take my chances and go with hardwood in the kitchen. Yeah, it's not such a good idea...

What can I use to waterproof it? Do I use something instead of poly or in addition to it?

Thanks, DB

[Igor]

I love my wood floor in the kitchen. Suggestion: Small non-slip rug in front of the sink. Not so much for water spills -- though that helps, I suppose -- as for foot traffic. Enormous amount of wear and tear in a very small space because you are not just walking by but pivoting constantly. I also have a rug in front of the stove to catch flying grease. Just beware that if you leave a rubber backed matt down too long it can imprint in the floor. I don't understand this -- I just know because when I rented out my house for a few years that is what i came back to.

[VOODO96]

Hello DB, I 1st refinished my oak floors 11 years ago w/Hydrocote Polyurethane from Highland Hardware. I did my kitchen, dining room and living room. I recoated them again last year with the same product. They have held up beautifuly throughout all these years. Product is easy to apply and dries fairly quickly so that multiple coats can be applied in 1 day. Highland carries both a satin & a gloss in this product.

Steve

[MattH]

[e-mail] (DB) wrote in news: [e-mail]:

Poly should be very water resistant. You should probably finish in place rather than use pre-finished so that you get the poly to seal between the planks. Even then as gaps open up over time you'll get water between them. I've read that for kitchens some folks actually seal the sides and back of the wood with poly before it's installed. On the other hand, I have friends who have oak in an open kitchen/dining/living space and just used gym seal on top with no problems (yet). But, they don't have kids and probably haven't spilled an excessive amount of water on that floor. I also understand that quartersawn lumber may not expand as much across the boards, which would be good for this application. Maybe check into that.. Good Luck!

-Matt

[Igor]

What prep did you do before the recaot last year? Also, did you use satin or gloss, how many coats? I ask because I have been told that it can be good to do base coats in gloss and then, if you want satin, to then do satin as top coat. Thanks.

[Bay Area Dave]

that's exactly what I did recently. 2 coats of gloss, followed by one coat of VERY CAREFULLY applied semi-gloss. the Bonakemi semi-gloss has the sheen I wanted. their satin would be too dull. Using 2 coats of gloss preserved much of the beauty of the oak floor

dave

Igor wrote:

[MSH]

Many many kitchens have hardwood floors without problems. A rug at the sink is always recommended and any spills should be wiped up immediately. Most problems come from dishwasher and icemaker leaks. You can buy a pan to go under the dishwasher with an outside drain. For the icemaker, hire a good plumber. Even with moderate leaks discovered early, the hardwood will often return close to normal with time. For the surface, buy the best finish available. If you can't buy it, bribe or hire a *real* hardwood floor shop to apply 3-4 coats depending on type you decide. I always recommend an extra coat in high traffic areas. When you start to see dirt in the grain, apply two more coats. This will extend the life of the sand job indefinitely. Or use a good prefinished with an aluminum oxide finish.

M Hamlin

[Igor]

I understand your point. But, do they use bath mats in the bathroom?

BTW, I have been dragging my feet forever. I can still here my parents' voices, "Pick up your feet". Guess I better learn.

[Igor]

That "VERY CAREFULLY" part is one that concerns me. If you miss a spot, it will be painfully obvious. I was thinking 1 coat of gloss and then 2 of the final sheen. VERY CAREFULLY is in my vocabulary but generally not in my skills bank. I devote any that I have to my power tool use!

[George]

Stick-ons are recommended, as well as bars to help enter and exit the tub.

It's not stepping on, but walking which is dangerous.

[Wilson Lamb]