Trying to repair loose joints on INDOOR teak chair

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"Dick Snyder" wrote:

Google wants me to sign in.
SCREW THAT NOISE.
Lew
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stains on this table in the last month or two) are the furniture we have owned the longest. I will do what it takes to keep it in the family. After a trip to Denmark in the late 60's we fell in love with teak furniture. We have a number of pieces but the table and chairs are our oldest pieces. I recently made a teak entertainment center for a vacation house but that teak looks very different than our furniture which has a very blonde look. Thanks for the suggestions Lew.
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year ago the big brothers at google decided that my photos needed to be shared with their very lame competitor to Facebook (which I don't use but my daughter tells me that Facebook is 1000% better than Google+). Supposedly I could share the photos so anyone could look at them but apparently I failed. I will try again.
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to me. If you have not been able to view the picture without being forced to log in, try this link:
https://plus.google.com/photos/107427402428916576238/albums/6019005578555392001?authkey=CLPUsZSRlqyGjQE
Dick
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On 5/29/2014 8:48 PM, Dick Snyder wrote:

This photo is still not sufficient for definitive advice on a lasting repair. Need to see the inside joinery, with the seat removed, and a photo of the seat attached from underneath.
Short of that:
Are there any "corner block" braces to support the leg/seat frame joint? Like this:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#6020016012120547410
If not, and depending upon how the seat is attached to the seat frame, and if there is sufficient room, you might want to consider adding a corner block, or a variation thereof, as additional structural support _in conjunction with_ any primary leg/seat frame joint fix you do.
I just fixed a factory made chair broken by a tenant that used a corner block, as pictured above, along with a bolt through the corner block that screwed into a threaded insert embedded in the leg sorta like this:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#6020016012799255410
These type of mechanical reinforced joints are common in factory made chairs these days and are actually much stronger than they appear as long as the screws are routinely tightened.
If there is room to add something of this nature to the seat frame/leg area, that, along with even a mediocre joint repair, may give your chair a new lease on life.
Without a closer examination, that's about the best I can.
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eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
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On 6/1/2014 12:42 PM, Swingman wrote:

Getting old ... I had completely forgotten that I had photographically documented the above repair, more or less.
Can't tell, from lack of seeing the actual joinery in the chair itself, if this helps from an idea perspective or not, but nothing ventured...
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopDiningChairRepair?noredirect=1
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Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
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See if this works for you any better Lew
https://plus.google.com/photos/107427402428916576238/albums/6019005578555392001?authkey=CLPUsZSRlqyGjQE
Dick
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"Lew Hodgett" wrote:

"Dick Snyder" wrote:

Picasa works.
How about alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking?
Lew
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without forcing anyting to log into Google. Just click a link and off you go. Please give it a try and let me know if it worked.
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"Dick Snyder" wrote:

That got thru, thank you.
After seeing the the chair, the more convinced I am that a rebuild with epoxy is the way to go.
Lew
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Teak lightens considerably as it ages due to light exposure. Type of finish makes a difference too.
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dadiOH
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I'm not Lew but yes; however, the photo doesn't really help.
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dadiOH
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Go back and peg them all and prevent future problems with them all.
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Jim in NC


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Not without a password.
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dadiOH
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On 5/29/2014 7:19 PM, Dick Snyder wrote: ...

Excepting I don't have google account...hence a password
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On 5/29/2014 8:49 PM, Dick Snyder wrote: ...

Which are we looking at????
You say it's loose; can you go ahead and disassemble the chair and thus have access rework the joinery? If it's loose and has been for a while, likely it started with the tenon shrinking slightly, then the glue failure followed by subsequent mechanical compression as the loading shifts now that it is and has been loose.
Not likely anything will serve long term without some help of refitting the joint. Even the dowel will, I expect, compress it and elongate the holes with time under loading if it is left as a loose joint and that's the only repair.
Don't show the underside; is it such it would be feasible to add the internal to the seat rail corner blocks?
But, were they mine and I was serious about long-term retention, I'd be investigating the disassembly route.
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disassembled enough to see that I was wrong. There is not a mortise and tenon but dowels. It being summer my work will go slowly but I will report back.
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I have rebuilt the joint with dowels and epoxy. Thanks.
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On Sunday, June 8, 2014 12:37:08 PM UTC-7, Dick Snyder wrote:

GACK! Epoxy has NO tolerance for future disassembly! If this is to be a long-lived chair, consider instead using hide glue, perhaps thickened with those microballoons that were mentioned earlier. Your grandkids will be posting here in a few decades with a bigger problem if you use epoxy!
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Nice work Karl. I appreciate that sequence of repairs that you had to do. My chairs are not nearly as the bad as the "how the hell did they do that?" before picture but there are some nice ideas in there/.
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