I am making a set of three stacking tables. Each table will have a 2 1/2"
wide piece of mahogany to trim the center rectangle of curly maple (still
deciding on the center). I got my technique down to get nearly perfect miter
cuts on my SCMS but the saw makes a slighly rough end cut that I would like
to be able to smooth off to get the best possible fit.
I tried to clean up the cuts with the sanding disk part of my combination
sanding disk/belt sander. It is a Ryobi I got for $99 at Home Depot a couple
of years ago on sale. Well, now I know why it was only $99. I could never
get the thing to sand the cut perfectly smooth. No matter how I fiddled
around with the (very cheap) miter gauge on the sanding disk, it always
sanded one end of the cut more than the other so I got a slightly rounded
surface. I guess $99 was TOO much to pay or more realistically, I shouldn't
have gotten it just because it was cheap.
The cuts aren't bad but I can't think of any way to sand the rough ends of
the cut to get an even better fit. Have any of you solved this problem?
Got a table saw?
Consider making a "miter sled" like the one on the Jig and Fixtures page of
Big plus is the _exact_ "45 degree" angle basically becomes a moot point
(particularly with the usual widths of picture frame miters) because the
order of cut, using an established 90 degree corner to build the sled,
insures complementary angles, and the jig allows you to use a stop block to
insure the sides are all cut the same length.
These two concepts combined make miter cutting a much easier task, with
little or no tweaking.
I do have a table saw and I also have a miter sled I made. Unfortunately the
miter sled I made does not have stop blocks. I made it for cutting one end
of a piece of wood and it does a fine job at that. I may make a better miter
sled like yours that has stop blocks but since my SCMS is doing a perfect
cut now, I just want to find a way to smooth the cut ends of the wood while
not losing the perfect 45 degree cut. Thanks for the reference to your sled.
I like the way you did it and will probably copy what you did.
Perhaps a better blade on your SCMS so further sanding is not necessary? I
have a Forrest Chopmaster on my Makita and resultant miter cuts are glass
smooth and glue ready, no sanding necessary.
With miter cuts, if I don't get the quality I need on the initial cut,
sanding seems to add more problems than it's worth. I hope your luck is
better than mine in that regard.
None that I can think of. It does precisely what it supposed to do - give
you perfect miters - and it's damn hard to improve on perfection. :)
The most important part of building it (other than getting the miter slot
runners parallel), is to be anally precise about insuring a perfect 90
degree angle on the plywood board that makes up the two opposite "fences". I
was lucky in finding a factory plywood edge that was nuts on, but it really
pays off down the road to be overly picky about this one factor.
Do so, and even if you are a little off in placement of this part on the
sled, you still have the complementary angle principle working in your favor
when you cut adjacent miters on opposite "fences".
On Fri, 02 May 2008 13:37:23 -0500, Swingman wrote:
Soo... how come the 'point' of the ply triangle hasn't got a blade kerf
cut into it? Never been used, or does it just not show up in the pictures?
Or am I missing something about how it should be used?
On Sun, 04 May 2008 08:54:19 -0500, Swingman wrote:
That's kinda what I figured... ;-)
Well, in my defence the picture had to be squeezed an awfully long way
down the tubes.
Don't mind me, I'm just jealous. My 'shop' is a UK-sized one car garage -
about 17'x8'. And it's not all for my sawdust generators either.
LOL ... that'll indeed make a difference. (actually, if you look closely you
can see the "vanishing magic kerf" in the second picture. It appears to be
hidden by the edge of the plexiglass guard in the first picture. As Leon
said, there is no need to cut much further past the "point", so it's not
like a regular cutoff sled in that respect.)
BTDT, and in the UK, AAMOF ... (built some of my "just married" furniture in
an 8 x 8 garden shed in Staines, Middx).
Now, I've got about twice that space (18 x 18), which seemed like a luxury
in comparison ... for all of about ten minutes. I have plans (depending upon
whether, in retirement, one prefers eating to having a bigger shop.) to
build a 20 x 36 shop. I'm sure it won't take long to make even that seem
How big is your sanding disk?
I usually use the 12" disk sander and clamp a guide board to the
cast-iron table at 45 degrees to the disk. Then just keep the
workpiece tight against the guide board. Don't bother with miter
gauge at all. You're doing pretty light sanding, I hope, so you
don't need to press hard or you'll burn the end.
To the contrary, the tapered side is what is meant to be used. One has to
tilt the arbor so that the taper is vertical; doing so means that the wood
can be fed into the disk without catching on the edge of the plate.
Additionally, the taper provides only one point of contact for the wood
which means all sanding will be linear and parallel to the direction of feed
rather than circular.
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