Norm takes his time and nearly always works carefully and thoughtfully.
Has anybody seen that guy that demonstrates the Oldham Signature TS
blades at The Woodworking Shows? He works without a splitter, fine, but
he also seems to take delight in seeing how close he can come to the
blade when he picks up his cutoffs, all the while talking, kidding the
women, and retrieving the stick he passed around.
I dunno, but he seems to be a poster boy for "familiarity breeds
contempt." I shudder every time I watch him. One of these days...
Yeah, have you noticed the short booards that he uses also??? IIRC he also
advises adjusting the fence out .005" at the back side of the blade. That
works OK for short pieces but on a long rip, the waste side starts to drag
against the blade. It is a lot of smoke and mirrors.
A while back I was spending an evening just browsing the Q&A section of the
New Yankee website. Someone asked if they should do that.
The website answer was "The fence should always be absolutely parallel to
the blade. Always."
Mine might be. <G>
I have never used anything more than a combination square, a sharpie
and one blade tooth to initially set the fence parallel to the blade,
and wood to fine tune it. When the wood isn't burnt, marked, etc...
I call the fence set right.
If I start to see burning or blade marks, I tweak the fence adjustment
screws 1/16 turn at a time until I'm back to the result I want.
I honestly do not know if my fence is perfectly parallel or toed in
either direction in relation to the blade.
I was more interested in the way he demonstrates Oldham's saw blade. First he
sliced a piece of 5" high wood, turned it upside down to finished the cut and
both pieces' show no sign of saw marks.
The piece that he resawed was relative short, tight? Smooth cuts are much
more easily accomplished on short pieces of wood. Not saying that he blade
is not a good one but he does not demonstrate on long boards which you are
likely to do.
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