The Wif wants a CD tower, and rather than inserting shelves, I want to cut
dadoes into the carcass sides to slip the jewel cases into. For doubles and
odd thickness cases, I'll cut some dadoes to fit as well. Would any of you
care to comment on a good step & repeat strategy for quickly and accurately
cutting the single CD case width dadoes? I figure I'll do the sides out of
some ply I have, and rip it in half for each side piece. I was thinking of
some arrangement like a pin would serve in a box joint jig....
If you decide to rout on a templet, the templet can be stepped with
anything of the right thickness. Trivial fixturing.
An example at the http://www.patwarner.com/rat.html link.
John Moorhead wrote:
Good idea. Concept: Use a dowel to mark the initial dado distance from
the end of the board and a removable square board in a dado to space
the rest of the cuts.
Mount a sacrificial fence on the miter gauge.
Run it over the router bit you'll use for the dadoes. (d)
Remove the board and mark for the CD spacing. (s)
Cut a deeper dado there for a removable L-shaped board.
Hold the board against the miter gauge and cut that dado.
Measure the distance for the bottom dado and drill a hole in the fence
for a removable dowel to set that initial cut. (O)
Lay the boards you with to dado on the table up against the dowel to
cut the first dadoes in each one.
Once you've marked and cut the first dado, remove the dowel and insert
the spacer dado board. Subsequent cuts will be offset by that much
when you sit the freshly cut dado on the stick. The sacrificial fence
is a backer board which keeps the dado from blowing out as you finish
Side view of fence: VV VV space between dadoes
s d d original dado for clearance
----------------------- --__----- s dado for spaced dadoes
| O __ | O dowel for initial dado
| o o | o mtg holes to miter gauge
Happy New Year!
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