Speaking of pocket hole jigs...

In the next month or so I will have the need to make 80 pocket holes at the ends of 1x2 stock. I have the Kreg R3, the one you clamp onto the work with a hand-held clamp. I was never a "jig" person before, but my brain has been turning more in that direction since I've been building what for me is a large project. Has anyone here built the R3 into a more stationary jig? Yes, I know Kreg sells one, but I'm reluctant to shell out the cash for it.
I have some ideas as to how I could do it, but it's nice to learn from other people's mistakes once in a while.
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On 1/22/2013 10:20 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

<simply making good use of waiting room time waiting for Dr's appointment ... thank gawd for iPad's> ;)
http://www.rockler.com/imageGallery/CustomerComments/17193_79289718_resized.JPG
http://kregjig.ning.com/photo/album/show?id )00167%3AAlbum%3A273271&xg_source¨tivity
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On 1/22/2013 12:01 PM, Swingman wrote:

Newspapers work too.

http://kregjig.ning.com/photo/album/show?id )00167%3AAlbum%3A273271&xg_source¨tivity
Thanks for the links. I, savvy veteran builder of 2.5 jigs to date, see things I don't like in both of them, but they are helping me visualize a design of my own.
I like that the Kreg jig fits in a nook in one of the setups, but I don't like that the workpiece would rest only on the tiny grey plastic "tabs" that you use to set the depth. The plastic jig itself would also be supported by only those flimsy tabs(plus whatever tension the clamp provides) As I will be using 3/4" stock exclusively for this job, I could provide a "floor" under the workpiece that is even with the tops of the tabs. Or I could drill recesses for the tabs to fit into and shim the body of the plastic jig such that the tabs would be even with the floor of the wooden jig.
I'm also thinking about setting up "guides" to hold the stock in the proper alignment in the jig. I think this will be more secure and quicker to use as well. As I'll be using the same size stock over and over (on this project, anyway), it should also be easy to do.
Still thinking though.
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On 1/22/2013 1:29 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:

Hell, tried that. Didn't do a bit of good ... nothing I touched, pinched, or swiped would move, and the links didn't work at all??

You did ask for other peoples mistakes ... :)

Make it do what you want it to do. Like Pat said about the full kit ... I have an older Kreg Master kit and, besides being able to set it up and boogie through a bunch of face frames, when it's hooked up to my Festool CT22E dust extractor I can cut pocket holes all day with NO dust/drill chips whatsoever ... either of those factors alone was worth the price of admission.
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On 1/22/2013 12:01 PM, Swingman wrote:

http://kregjig.ning.com/photo/album/show?id )00167%3AAlbum%3A273271&xg_source¨tivity
Exactly, but if you ask me go for the bessey clamp so you have auto adjustment. You'll be glad you did.
--
Jeff

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On 1/22/2013 8:20 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

To get the entire kit is a VERY worth while investment. It will change the way you build cabinets forever. With four boards and a few screws, you can have a cabinet frame put together in minutes. Face frames go even quicker(less holes).
It appears that others have come up with a simple solution for your original question about the R3.
You will never regret getting the entire kit....
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On 1/22/2013 2:06 PM, Pat Barber wrote:

a pain to use for multiple holes. Having said that, woodworking gizmos have a lot to compete with about now. Chief among the other things I hope never to regret are sending my daughter to college in the Fall. So for now, I think I'll build a jig. I understand it's good for my overall well-being too.
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