I know there is some pocket hole screw guys out there. I don't have the Kreg
tool, yet, but I've got a Taiwanese rip off. I got it from Rockler about 6
years ago. What I'm wondering is, on the good Kreg, does it leave the screw
heads just a bit proud of the surface? By a bit, I'm talking 1/16th or so.
I'm not really concerned about all but one piece I just did. I have to do a
dado after it's assembled. No big deal as I'll just grind the screw heads
flush. Just wanted to know if it's "normal" or not. TIA.
No, the screw heads are completely below the surface. But this should
be a function of where you set the stop on the drill, not the jig
itself. The Kreg jig just sets the angle of drilling. They have some
guidelines and measurements that are recommended but you can adjust
them as you see fit. Really you are just using a stepped drill to make
a slanted hole, whose position and depth are controlled by the drill
stop and various spacer blocks. I used my jig for some 5/8" thick
particle board and made my own spacer block out of 1/4" MDF to get it
What Bob said.
If a screw head protrudes, it's either not going in deep enough, or it
is the wrong screw.
The KREG people are nice enough to publish the K-3 manual on their
website which spells things out quite clearly on how to set things
up.... and that info is easily transferable to a knock-off jig. (It must
be said that knock-off jigs have a very short life-span and in no way do
the clean job of a Kreg. They're a piss-poor substitute.)
As well with the K3 system, the screw settings and which one to use for
thickness of wood is in raised lettering as part plastic case as well as
printed in the included manual. I recently bought a K3 system from Lee
Valley tools and I'm pretty impressed with it. Haven't built anything
specific yet, but I have tried it out on the joining of a few boards and
it's more solid a construction that I would have guessed from just looking
The included DVD with John Sillaots building a table with drawers using the
Kreg Jig goes a long way to instilling ideas of what one could build if
Maybe you haven't been spending enough at LV lately and you're being
punished. Better schedule a visit right away. <g> (Psssst. Robin, can I
get those free tools now?)
Drop over with some beer and I'll see what I can do for you. <g>
I went from Sleeman Cream Ale to their Honey-Brown... put on a
bezillion pounds around the midriff as a result. (74# gone now..I can,
once again, beat my way out of a wet paper bag.) I think you'll like
Grolsch then...especially the third one at 8-degrees Celsius.
BTW.. did you ever shop at All-In-One in Mr. & Mrs. Sauga?
Been dying to check the place out. Hot wings after.
M12V Hitachi routers for $ 249.00 CDN. That's a whole-lotta-moter for a
quarter. (Our American friends are snickering in their near-beer at that
BIG number..don't pay attention to them.. they're just a little
envious......they're okay though..*G*)
I haven't been in Mississauga for a number of years. Travel difficulties
(for me anyway) make it usually not worth the bother. Although, I do hope to
make the trip someday out to Hamilton and Ashman Technical for some big
I've got a Makita 3612BR. Supposedly rated at 3.25 hp, but those numbers are
always subject to conjecture.
Email me when you're up to visit.
I bought the K3 at a recent woodworking show and it came with a DVD on
trim carpentry by a guy named Gary Striegler. It's definitely
worthwhile, but I want to see the cabinet DVD as well. Would you be
interested in trading?
Ok, I was thinking maybe it was the stop. I was just wanting to use the
Taiwanese thing as an excuse to get a new one. So obviously the front of the
jig is not set flush with the end of the workpiece then. If I move the stop
up the bit enough to conceal the screw heads, then there isn't but about
1/8th" of material left for the screw to bottom out on. It's a jig setting
and stop collar setting thing then. Thanks for the help guys.
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