In answering a workshop question I thought some of you might have some ideas on a rural driveway down to my new shop.
The deal is I'm trying to save money and trees. If I do the normal clearing they'll take out more trees than the minimum and they'll have the land all torn up removing the stumps. Most of the top ones are good sized pines and then hardwoods usually 18-24" after that.
So, I'm wondering about cutting the trees as ground close as possible and just covering with ABC stone. When they rot I'd just fill with more ABC. I think it's going to be too expensive to have a stump grinder go even lower. Probably be about 250' of road.
It's amazing the things one sees here. Well... you are at least aware that you're going to end up with problems as the stumps rot. How much stone are you contemplating over the ground and stumps? Are you planning on cutting the top few inches of organic material off before putting down the stone? You'll likely end up with a soft driveway if you don't. Build on an organic base and you'll pump that crap up through during the wetter periods. Get enough pumping going on and your stone will just become a part of a nasty quagmire.
What do you mean by ABC stone? I've never heard that phrase before.
There's no reason to take too many trees. Saw down, or have someone saw only the trees you want removed. I would take the stumps out. You won't end up with unmanageable holes, but you *will* be doing the job the right way. Any dozer operator, or hoe operator will cuff off the area around the driveway and leave it in a very presentable condition, so you shouldn't be concerned about the land being all torn up. My driveway is 350 long and wanders up through the woods to the house. It's only wide enough for the driveway and the trees come right up to the edge. There's no reason yours can't be the same. Do remember that if you expect big trucks up your driveway, or if you have to deal with snow, or any of a host of other considerations, you'll want to build a driveway that is 12' wide. Want to make life miserable for a delivery driver? Build an 8' wide driveway that winds up through the oh-so-pretty trees. Imagine yourself having to back that truck up that driveway.
You laid out the "save money" line, so I'll talk to that for a second. Don't get so focused on saving a penny that you screw yourself by telling a dozer operator what to do or not do. You'll just be posting here in 6 months, complaining about the rotten job you got. All because you tried to take it on the cheap. A workman is worth his wages, and you'll be set for life if you just do the job right up front and don't try to save too many pennies. Tell him what you want, agree with him how it's going to be done and let him do it. He'll likely have some very experienced advice to offer you - you should listen to it.
Good thoughts and appreciated. The organic bit was a concern I had that you confirmed. It'd have to be removed before the stumps cut down, if I went that way, otherwise I'd just be revealing more stump. One thought put forth was 5" of stone.
ABC stone is a crushed mixture that packs like concrete. NC DOT uses it a lot and it's fairly reasonably priced.
The dozer guy who cleared the stumps for the house insisted on them being about 4' proud and then had some he walked the dozer around trying to get 'em loose. That's why I'd expect them to tear up the surrounding area when they get to a decent sized one. I agree mightily about 12' wide. F350 dually longbed with a gooseneck ain't too cool on a 8' driveway.
4' would be about right for a dozer. It needs a leverage point to push against. A backhoe will dig them out without leaving 4' standing. As well, a hoe won't have to get around the stump as much as a dozer will. My strongest recommendation would be to hog out the stumps with a hoe and then bring the dozer in to do the cuts and fills. Cut the organic out until you hit good sub-base, then bring in bank run gravel to bring yourself to within
3-5" of finish grade. With 8" of bank run on top of a good, clean sub-base, and well compacted, you can get by with just 3" of crushed limestone and never have a problem for years. If you live in snow country you'll push some of the limestone off every year, but you can rake it back. Some will erode away from your car tires, especially on the turns. I re-topped my driveway with just a skim coat (>2") after it had been in place for about 13 or 14 years. It was still quite solid, but there were wear areas that just needed some more crusher run.
Puff, I think that's what ABC amounts to. Mike, Man, nobody puts down that much gravel around here. You sitting on permafrost? I don't doubt it'd be the best way, though. Thing is, I'm retired and trying to do this thing for charitable purposes mainly. I dream of that shop being used for teaching and fellowship. Real rustic, with a lean-to porch overlooking the bottoms where the deer hangout. Where these Charlotte city folks can get a taste of nature and basics - kids and men.
Well, I need to have a septic system and head. Those guys insist on getting their equipment in and I smoked for too many years to have my lungs be able to carry the lumber in on my back! The trees are thick enough that the
If there is a limestone quarry in your area and your planned driveway is relatively flat, the best driveway that I've ever had was made of a 5 inch layer of quarry dust...the fines from the crusher are perfect for driveway use. It contains everything up to about 1/4 inch and packs to a hard flat white surface after a couple of rainstorms. I had to rake level a couple of small spots after the first rain, but then it stayed as flat as blacktop for years without any maintenance. Grass won't grow in it either. The cost was only what the trucker wanted for hauling it because the quarry was giving it away. I wish I still lived there.
Thu, Jan 26, 2006, 5:29pm snipped-for-privacy@charter.net (Tom=A0Nie) doth claim: Where these Charlotte city folks can get a taste of nature and basics - kids and men.
You move to the country, then want to bring city people out there. You need help. And, I'm not talking help from me.
JOAT You only need two tools: WD-40, and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use the tape.
Sat, Jan 28, 2006, 10:08pm (EST+5) snipped-for-privacy@carolina.rr.com (Charley) doth remember: The cost was only what the trucker wanted for hauling it because the quarry was giving it away. I wish I still lived there.
The operational word thee is "was". Crusher run used to be free too - long ago. Then they found out people wanted it, and now it costs.
JOAT You only need two tools: WD-40, and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use the tape.
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