I saw an ad in Woodwork.
MLCS routerbits.
Anyone here ever use them? If so, what do you think?
I am particularly interested in the spiral flush cutting bits.
Thanx in advance
0¿0Rob
I saw an ad in Woodwork.
MLCS routerbits.
Anyone here ever use them? If so, what do you think?
I am particularly interested in the spiral flush cutting bits.
Thanx in advance
0¿0Rob
I bought there 66 bit set for $199 a few years back. I am very pelased with it, especially for the price. I am sure expensive bits are better, but the MLCS bits have worked out quite well for me. They have friendly customer service as well. (I had a bearing go bad.) I have some of the bits alot and they have held up quite well.
Joe in Denver My Woodworking Website:
bits are good -- I have been buying quite a few lately. It would appear that the Katana line is a cut above the normal bits. One nice thing is shipping is free in the lower 48. It makes it easy to buy a single bit when you need something special for a project without worrying about being killed by the shiping charge
They have a good deal on three spiral bits -- something like $49 for a 1/4,
3/8 and 1/2 -- can't beat the price
I have used a number and found they work fine. However... I bought a spiral bit specifically to reduce tear out with my box joint jig. Sadly the bit was way undersized, so the joints didn't fit. I complained to MLCS. They said they were all undersized, but they were glad to refund my money (less s&h). Not as good as a correct size bit, but better than a complete loss.
Hi Robatoy,
Have used MLCS bits for 5+ years or more (for some). They are a good value for the hobbyist. How can you go wrong at $3 / bit if you buy an "Anniverary" set?
I bought separate bits which I thought that I would actually use. None has disappointed and I am going back to buy a few Katanas to see if they hold an edge a little longer.
Generally, I would recommend them. Great service too.
Lou
Rob...
I've bought a few of their bits. They were sharp and hold up fairly well. I'll probably buy more from them.
Most of my routing is done on a CNC machine and in that context I've observed that:
[1] spiral bits aren't quite as good as straight bits for tearout [2] down spiral bits are good for helping to hold work down and producing clean edges [3] up spiral bits are good for chip removal - which may be important when cutting deep mortises. They tend to lift the work and produce "fuzzy" edges.
I have used them for several years and find they do a real good job for me. I don't use them a lot so I don't know how production work on them would be. For me, I have been very well pleased, both with their quality and the service from MLCS.
Allyn
The bit is defective and they would not refund shipping? There are sellers with much more class than that.
I would look for a more recently satisfied customer. The nature of these companies importing and branding the bits with their own name suggests that they can change manufacturers and the bits look the same but might not perform the same. Many years ago I bought Woodcraft (Woodtech?) router bits and weas very satisfied with them. We used them everyday day and felt that they were a real bargain. They weren't CMT but they cost a lot less and worked properly. I am now starting up my shop again and am not sure they are as good as they used to be. max
What kind of box joint jig? Must have been something like a comb for a dovetail jig. Straddle fence types adjust with a tap to fit any bit.
I bought the dovetail set for use with the leigh jig. I've only tried=20 one of the bits, but it was undersized and did a very poor job. The=20 Leigh bits work great, and cut better so I'll just stick with them from=20 now on. I'm debating selling the MLCS set on e-bay, but I hate to stick=20 someone else with it. Any offers? Possibly this was the only bad bit in=20 the set, but I'm not going to waste my time, or materials finding out.=20 Straight bits are probably fine.
Zeke
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Zeke
OK, I'll bite. How far out do they have to be to exceed the adjustment capability of the jig? You _have_ read the manual on how to compensate for individual bits? The Leigh people recognize the reality that bits are different even within the _same_ manufacturer's line.
Bite away George, but don't choke on it. I've read the instructions, have you_ever_used the jig? How does the adjustment capability of the jig affect the fit of half blind dovetails? A hint, it doesn't. The angle of the bit does however, but if you had read the instructions you would know that. I don't know if the bit I tried was undersized, or the wrong angle, and I don't care. The bit did a very poor job for me. Like it or not, that is my opinion.
Zeke
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You might want to read it again.
I didn't consider half-blind, because with half-blind, you use a single bit. What's left behind is the complement of what cut it. Angle no player.
If you had loose or tight joints, you have to adjust the _depth_ of the bit with half blind. This compensates for differences in diameter. Key to recognition is the error noted will be consistent from cut to cut.
There is one more potential gotcha, and that's a combination of poor centering of the guide, and rotating the router when cutting. This will give inconsistent results from tail to tail.
You'll want to check both of them with any bit and collar, or you're in for more disappointment.
Heimlich administered.
George, I was simply responding to a question about router bits, I was not asking for advice on the Leigh jig. I am in no way dissapointed in the results I get from the jig. The centering of the guide or rotating the router is not the problem. As I said, I get great results from Leigh bits, so its not jig setup or router technique. The bit in question will not produce a tight joint without lowering the bit beyond its cutting depth. If you still can't believe it send me the postage and you can have the damn thing.
Zeke change com to net for e-mail
You should remember to use a smiley face when you try to make funnies, someone might think you actually believe this would work. I took your advice and looked at the manual. Here is a link to the relevant chapter from the leigh site:
Zeke change com to net for e-mail
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