Replacing fascia boards

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On Fri, 21 Nov 2014 20:17:03 -0600, Martin Eastburn

idea. Generally "wood hardener" is used to firm up deteriorating wood - not as a preventative measure.
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On 11/21/14, 8:17 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:

This whole time I thought you were talking about exterior use for this PVC shaping experiment. For outside use I thought it would be way too much work to get it looking good. For inside use, I'm thinking you'd have to be insane to do it.
Just use wood, prime and paint it and be done with it. How freakin wet does your mudroom get!? :-D
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-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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"-MIKE-" wrote in message

Based on the tests I tried it doesn't seem all that bad to work with... this has been with new knives on the tools.
When the project commences the PVC will be the first material run so that the knives are still very sharp. From prior experiences sharpness is more important with softer materials than hard when it comes to getting a good surface... Since I'm running, installing, and painting all the moldings/casing/baseboards myself the anticipated bit of extra work for finishing the PVC for the "wet areas" is a non-issue in my quest to prevent moisture issues later on.
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On 11/22/14, 11:08 AM, John Grossbohlin wrote:

The only issues I could see with interior dampness is if you're trimming out a sauna. If you have that much dampness to rot out painted wood, you have more important issues than what wood to use for your trim. :-D
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-MIKE-

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On 11/22/14, 12:06 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

Ooops, hit send to soon. I *have* trimmed out a mud room and garage with PCV shoe molding for a guy who had dogs who loved the mud and he liked to mop his floors a lot. But that was direct and sustained water contact and stock molding. No brainer.
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-MIKE-

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"-MIKE-" wrote in message

Sounds like my English Setter after a day afield...
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