Curious to know what others do when you have a 10/12' fascia board and only
0+ to maybe 24" is rotted on end or joint. This assumes the rest of it is in very very good shape and replacing the whole length seems silly.What do you folks use to cut the 45 for the board overlap? In particular, without popping a hole in the shingles like with a recip saw. I have used a recip saw and placed a piece of metal above. Have also used the HF multifunction tool.
Just looking for better ideas.
Are you trying to splice the new piece on a rafter tail? You don't have to. You can cut it in between the rafter tails and use a piece of 3/4" ply as a backing plate, and screw & glue. You also don't have to cut it at 45 degrees that way, and it's much less likely to open up.
RRicodJour wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@y10g2000prg.googlegroups.com:
Not really. Most of these I do have a rafter cap on the soffit end. Can splice anywhere.
I've always tried to do a 45 to minimize water infiltration and it makes a nicer looking joint I think. Probably wasting my time.
RotoZip is your friend!!!
On 10/27/2009 10:52 AM RicodJour spake thus:
Sounds like a plan.
How about cutting it at an angle, but shallower than 45°? 15° or 20° ought to be enough.
Can you remove the whole board then work on it, clean it up, and then replace it with the patch. Since new would is not near as good as old wood, I would be inclined to put the patch in the middle running the old board to the end.
Pretty much. A 45 only minimizes water infiltration if the 45 is horizontal with the outside of the upper piece overlapping the bottom piece.
If your fascia is capped you don't have to worry about water infiltration nearly as much. Butt joint, goober some caulk on the cut end and slide it into place.
RRicodJour wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@m11g2000vbl.googlegroups.com:
Yea, I'm picky on that one. Next in line is on the rakes. Soffits are indeed more aesthetics.
I don't think that the OP's Q was answered. How do you cut the board? What do you do with the gutter while you're making the fascia repair. You guys obviously know more about this than the OP or I do. TIA, Chuck
=A0What
You can use almost any cutting tool, and almost any power cutting tool will require you to finish it up with a handsaw or a reciprocating saw. The roof shingle overhang will prevent a jigsaw, circular saw and most likely a rotozip from cutting right to the top edge.
The gutter has to come down as Red said the fascia has an aluminum fascia cover. If it didn't have a fascia cover, the gutter would have to come down so you could cut the fascia and scab in the new piece. Coming down does not necessarily mean removing it entirely. The far end could probably remain attached, depending on how and where the gutter is attached, and it could be hung down at an angle to clear the work area.
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