screw closest to the stop.] replace them with the 3" screws and
tighten them till the door pulls slightly. repeat on each hinge then
check to see how far it has moved. a little goes a long way. this way
you dont get stuck replacing the landlords door! also you make no mess
at all. skeez
I found that my Indian plane (a $10 Harbor Freight special
from 18+ years ago) sharpened up well and works fine for
those special situations such as this. I keep the beater for
paint removal and my real planes touch only bare wood.
Press HERE to arm. (Release to detonate.)
http://diversify.com Website Application Programming
Others have warned about using a circular saw, but I fail to
see the problem. I have done this numerous times with a circular saw.
You must use a straight edge to guide the saw. You must have
a very sharp blade. You must have reasonable confidence, skill, and
experience with your saw. This takes a steady hand.
You would also be wise to put a strip of masking tape on both
sides of the door and cut through it. This will prevent splintering.
Burnish it down well enough to stick but not so well it lifts paint.
You can also use this tape to mark where the hinges go, but this
should be obvious since no matter how much you cut, you will have the
screw holes to guide you.
This works wonderfully! I have (2), one for each of my circ. saws.
Just a hint on making one - - you do NOT have to find a table saw! For the
straight edge of the "guide ripper" they talk about, use the "factory edge"
of a piece of plywood. You're not going to cut anything straighter than this
yourself, and it won't bend, twist, or warp from changing humidity as a
piece of plain wood might.
When I want to make a lot of shelves that are the same
depth, I make a sawboard that is wide enough so that I can
put a cleat on the bottom of the sawboard. Then I hook the
cleat on the end of the 4x8 sheet, cut a shelf, move it
forward, cut another shelf, all with no measuring. No
measuring eliminates a lot of misteaks.
May not apply in your case, but one "murphy" I've run into with hollow
core doors and older buildings is oddball door opening sizes,
requiring too much trimming of the door stiles (I guess it's not really
a stile on a HC door, but I mean the upright piece of wood at the edge
of the door) to the point of them being so thin they won't hold
the hinge screws. When that happens it is 'sometimes' possible to
remove the piece, cut out some of the "honeycomb" or whatever is used
inside the door, and install a new, thicker, piece.
Having run into this situation on occassion I have either: built
myself a custom sized, insulated door (but plain, e.g. for the
basement entry), or trimmed down a solid chunk of lumber as a
replacement for the framing I sawed out (or thinned too far). So far,
both solutions haven't presented a problem over a few years passing.
On Tue, 19 Aug 2003 15:22:56 GMT, firstname.lastname@example.org (Lawrence
Better be carefull doing anything to the door as you may wind up buying
a new one as the landlord will charge you as you must leave it the
condition you rented or leased. It has to be a he had it.
Damage depost will be paying for a new door.
Check with your landlord first
DO NOT CUT THE DOOR !!!!!!! I did one time and it splintered to heck
and back. Sand it. As a thought , you could run a bar of soap on it or
wax on the spot where it is binding or try Slippit-that stuff works
great. Now since that didn't work, get or borrow a belt sander. It is
MUCH quieter. Good luck. Hey, maybe you would appreciate this . Get
an old fashioned hand plane. Quiet, smooth, etc..
On Thu, 14 Aug 2003 17:32:15 GMT, "Doug Kanter"
I second the motion on not cutting a hollow core door-- they're mostly
Kleenex held together with splinters and paint. The plane is a poor tool for
cutting through paint, etc. If the door "frame" is of the same construction
quality as the door itself, you may be able to drive the latch-striker trim
far enough to eliminate the problem. Use a hammer and a piece of junk wood
to preserve the trim.
I've been replacing the junkwood door frames in our condo. They're held
together with staples and have no structural strength whatsoever.
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