The threads are to hold the clamp head on the pipe. If it just slipped over the end, it would slip off again when you tried to tighten the clamp.
-- Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?
My 2 cents
!) Go with 3/4" Pony (about $12 ea, sometimes on sale but pretty rare lately)
2) Buy pipe threaded both ends and then cut in the middle (you only need threads on one end to make this thing work...back end doesn't need (or like) threads. It prefers to go naked)... Take a piece of 10' (Borg sells it) and make two 5 footers, a 6 footer and a 4 footer, a 7 footer and a 3 footer ...you get the idea. Pipe is cheap so have some fun. Buy lots of pipe and inter-change a few clamps as needed. 3) Don't drop one of those suckers on your big toe (don't ask how I know that).My opinion is to thread both ends and get a threaded PVC cap to go on the far end. This is a cheap way to protect the threads from a hostile world, and to protect your work when you are swinging the clamp around the shop.
On Fri, 30 Jan 2004 15:45:44 -0800, "codepath" brought forth from the murky depths:
Yes, and they're on sale at HFT today. The 36" bar clamps are
-cheaper- than the Pony pipers, and the 6-inchers are only
2 bucks apiece. Get the Pittsburgh clamps with the lifetime warranty.============================================================ Help Save the Endangered Plumb Bobs From Becoming Extinct!
Clamping power of pipe clamps? How about the clamping power of something like the Record T-bar clamp, or cramp. Two tonnes of clamping pressure, a rigid, smooth, adjustable pinned stop on the other end, hard to beat. Best clamp around IMO, hard, real hard to go back to pipe clamps after using these. Unfortuantly they're not availible in North America anymore, but worth a trip to the UK.
Jeffo
I bought a few set of the Sure Foot pipe clamp fixtures from Rockler and I love them. The wide foot is really nice and they are predrilled for adding accessories. Something I like to do when clamping up narrow panels is add an extra half of the jaws (not the threaded one but the sliding one) to the end of the clamp to hold the ends up
Damn I was hoping there was such a source to be honest! Like you said though it still beats the heck out of $48! I looked at the Harbor Freight crap and had to keep in mind you we're speaking of quality clamps so that leaves HF out completely! I too prefer the Jorgensen's. Better made by far.
Jim
Sorry Bruce, but while your math is correct your assumption of quality is not. Those things pale in comparison to Jorgensen's.
Jim
And yes I have used both so I do know what Im talking about before anyone jumps on that one.
Another tip to consider is using galvanized pipe. Threads on just the same and you don't get that black shit all over your workpiece. I have a couple of these and would eventually like to upgrade all of my pipe clamps to gal.
Jim
James Kountz notes:
Instead, use a bit of waxed paper under the black pipe. Galvanized sooneor or later causes a lot more slipping of the mobile head.
Charlie Self "All you need in this life is ignorance and confidence, and then success is sure." Mark Twain
James Kountz responds:
I've got a few of both the K Body models and the Cabinetmasters. I'll take all of each I can get. But remember, the cost projection was for a 96" (90" clamping) for the pipe clamps and a 60" K Body. I couldn't find a price listing for a 96" K Body.
Not meaning to knock either clamp, as they're marvelous, as I understand a similar Gross Stabile model is. It's just a matter of economics for the average hobbyist: if you need a dozen 60" clamps, it's a fair amount easier to tape the wallet for about $220 than it is to take a $575 whack. Of course, the best way is to build both sets up as you need them.
Remember, too, that those 3' pipe clamps only need an 8' piece of pipe to grow like crazy.
Charlie Self "All you need in this life is ignorance and confidence, and then success is sure." Mark Twain
Jim,
I'm satisfied with the clamps. I wouldn't debate that they are inferior to Jorgensens because I've never used them and I am aware that there are better quality items out there.
But let me attempt to give you a lesson. Everything in this world is a compromise. These clamps to exactly what I want them to and they do it without failing, with no undue difficulties. That defines quality for me. I would consider myself an idiot to spend 5X as much for a Jorgensen clamp that will not fundamentally do anything this one won't. Anything above the basic requirements may be nice but you can't logically argue that it is necessary.
Tell me you're not an engineer please? Or if you are, I'll bet you work for the government.
I went the opposite way ..and for exactly for the reasons Charlie stattted.. Galvinized was Cheaper then Black pipe (ok the galvinized I got was free )...and free is always cheaper.... Initially anyway !
But over the years I started to notice a lot of slippage and flaking ..so slowely I converted over to black pipe ...and I have a large roll of paper like that used in auto paint shops that I just use under the clamps IF I NEED TO... The wife locks up her wax paper and aluminum foil and most of the dishware that I used to steal .. I do have a bunch of K-Bodies but the largest is about 40"...most are
30-32's and there is no comparison as to which are much better BUT comparing 5 or 6 bucks per clamp to 30-40 or even 50 Bucks a clamp... well you get the idea...Bob Griffiths
Codepath,
Mike is right: look for them at a plumbing supply store. Costs about half what you'll pay at HD and Lowes. Here's what I did and my rationale:
Go for 3/4" black pipe. 1/2" works too, but will bow on longer jobs. Galv. works too, but both surfaces will rub off and the Galv. is worse (DAGS for past discussion of this. With either one you'll want to wipe off the oil, run it through a grinder-wire brush, then wax it lightly). At the local plumbing stores, it comes in 21' sections. I bought 2, and cut them into 3 equal 7' sections at the store. They were more than willing to let me use their outlet outdoors so I could plug in my Sawzall with a bi-metal blade. Quick and easy, and the 7' sections easily fit in my little truck.
You can use a hacksaw too, but it'll take a little longer. Bring a clamping table or vise to hold them while cutting. Some supply stores will cut/thread them for you at a reasonable rate, but most make you do it yourself. That's the only benefit I see to the Borgs' system: they'll cut and thread (for free, if I remember correctly) but the cost is still higher.
Once home I cut each section into 4' and 3' sections, file the ends down smooth and level, then I thread one end of each with a cheapo import threader (Homier sells one for $20 that's worked fine for me). Probably takes me about 5-10 min. per pipe, so having a store with an electric threader do it would definitely be easier, but I enjoy doing that sort of thing.
OK, now I have the pipe for (6) 4' sections and (6) 3' sections, the combination of which suits most of my clamping needs. Buy a handful of couplers at the supply store and you can combine those pipes into very lengthy clamps if needed. You'll need to have two ends threaded for this (another reason to have the threader around), and I like the idea elsewhere in the thread to keep these ends clean with a PVC cap when not in use.
On to clamps: I bought (8) 3/4" pipe clamps from HF for about $3.50 ea, then I got (4) 3/4" long neck (7") pipe clamps for heavy or deep clamping projects. I got mine used, but Jet sells them for $12, and HF has them on sale regularly for $8.
If you think Pony (the standard for pipe clamps) is worth it, then spring for the $12 ea. for them. But HF sells them both, so you can compare them firsthand as I have. I don't see any significant difference between them.
For smaller clamps, HF's Pittsburgh clamps are fine in the 6", 12" and
24" lengths. Any longer than 2' and I see too much flex for comfort; besides, my 3' pipe clamps are perfect for that length and their strength is overkill.Good luck, H
But just like their bar clamps, HF has 2 kinds of pipe clamps. I didin't goof and buy the 1/2", but I did buy some of their ordinary 3/4" ones. They hit the trash pile after only a few uses. Then I bought some of their 3/4" "heavy-duty" ones when they were on sale. They've worked great for several years now.
No, I have no financial interest in HF :-). Some of their stuff is junk. None of it is Jorgenson quality. Some of it works well enough for any normal use. It may cost you some bucks to find out which is which :-).
BTW, I'm currently teaching a beginners course in model railroading. I told the students to buy cheap needle files at HF. If they bought good ones, they'd be reluctant to toss them when they got dull. With the HF ones, they can toss them when dull with no pangs in the pocketbook :-).
I wipe my black pipe down using a rag dampened with Naphtha then give it a coat of shellac. No more marks.
maybe your own assesment) as to whether the cutting and threading charge is small. The first time I looked I was shocked. Of course it is much easier to just buy the precut length or buy long pieces and have them cut, but it won't be cheap. If you have very many pieces to thread, you can pick up a used threader or go to HF, buy one and have a tool for the same price as threading. And you can alway cut pipe with a hack saw.
Ok Bruce that's fine, now its my turn to give you something to ponder. As I stated I own and have used both types of clamps. The cheap HF and the Jorgs. Ok? Now then I'm glad you didn't experience any bad things when using your HF clamps. Here's your lesson. Others have, myself included. I don't know what you clamp, I don't know what you do with yours, I only know what I do with mine. That said, I can now say that for me they pale in comparison and DID NOT do the job intended so therefore I would NOT be an idiot for spending more money to get better clamps to get MY job done. Make sense to you? The lesson learned? What works for one doesn't always work for the masses. Mine slipped and one even broke under moderate reasonable pressure. I wasn't even cranking hard on it when it broke. So there you are a simple case where we learned something. Didn't we?
Jim
James,
I understand what you are saying. You will not see me cheerleading everything that HF sells because they sell a lot of real crap. I do not believe the HF 1/2" pipe clamps fall into the crap category.
As to your actual experiences, if one broke it must have been a poor casting. I would agree that you are less likely to get a poor casting from Jorgensen. Of course, at 1/5 the price you could break 4 and still come out ahead.
I would guess that your breakage experience was an unusual thing. I'm leaving for the gym as soon as I post this. I bench 265lbs and squat 375. My point being, I would be surprised if you could tighten your clamps any tighter than I tightened mine. I tightened my 8 clamps when building my bench, to glue the top and to glue the legs mortise/tenon joints. When I did, I turned them until I couldn't turn them any more. None of them cracked or broke. There was also some bowing in the pipe. This has nothing to do with the clamps though, a Jorgensen would have bowed identically, and in fact, it illustrates how hard the clamp is pulling. The real problem was that 60" is about the limit for 1/2" pipe and had I used 3/4", it would be fine.
One of them was harder to tighten than the others, but it did work. What happened was that the body twisted a bit due to the pipe hole not being tapped perfectly straight. I would not expect to see this with a Jorgensen. Again, if I shitcan that one, I'm still about $6 ahead.
As for slippage, I'm not sure how you can blame a clamp for slipping. What do you suppose caused it to slip that wouldn't cause a Jorgensen to slip?
Great idea, Howard, I'll do that from now on. Why Naptha rather than other solvents?
Regards, H.
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