Pipe Clamp Question

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In rec.woodworking

I prefer to curl a 24oz Fosters oil can myself.
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says...

goof and buy the 1/2", but I did buy some of their ordinary 3/4" ones. They hit the trash pile after only a few uses. Then I bought some of their 3/4" "heavy-duty" ones when they were on sale. They've worked great for several years now.
No, I have no financial interest in HF :-). Some of their stuff is junk. None of it is Jorgenson quality. Some of it works well enough for any normal use. It may cost you some bucks to find out which is which :-).
BTW, I'm currently teaching a beginners course in model railroading. I told the students to buy cheap needle files at HF. If they bought good ones, they'd be reluctant to toss them when they got dull. With the HF ones, they can toss them when dull with no pangs in the pocketbook :-).
--
Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs?

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James Kountz asks:

Don't tell me my fiscal memory is failing, too. I'd have sworn I paid something like 7 bucks for the clamp parts and 3 for the pipe. But, then again, that was probably 10-15 years ago. I see Amazonhas Jorgenson's for $10.99, which tends to blow the daylights out of my 10 buck statement. Oh well. Still, under 20, all in. A K Body 60" costs about $48.
Charlie Self "All you need in this life is ignorance and confidence, and then success is sure." Mark Twain http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
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Damn I was hoping there was such a source to be honest! Like you said though it still beats the heck out of $48! I looked at the Harbor Freight crap and had to keep in mind you we're speaking of quality clamps so that leaves HF out completely! I too prefer the Jorgensen's. Better made by far.
Jim

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James Kountz responds:

I've got a few of both the K Body models and the Cabinetmasters. I'll take all of each I can get. But remember, the cost projection was for a 96" (90" clamping) for the pipe clamps and a 60" K Body. I couldn't find a price listing for a 96" K Body.
Not meaning to knock either clamp, as they're marvelous, as I understand a similar Gross Stabile model is. It's just a matter of economics for the average hobbyist: if you need a dozen 60" clamps, it's a fair amount easier to tape the wallet for about $220 than it is to take a $575 whack. Of course, the best way is to build both sets up as you need them.
Remember, too, that those 3' pipe clamps only need an 8' piece of pipe to grow like crazy.
Charlie Self "All you need in this life is ignorance and confidence, and then success is sure." Mark Twain http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
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Charlie Self wrote:

Small charge? I think it depends on where you live (and maybe your own assesment) as to whether the cutting and threading charge is small. The first time I looked I was shocked. Of course it is much easier to just buy the precut length or buy long pieces and have them cut, but it won't be cheap. If you have very many pieces to thread, you can pick up a used threader or go to HF, buy one and have a tool for the same price as threading. And you can alway cut pipe with a hack saw.
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My 2 cents - Stay with Pony - I tried some cheap knock-offs a couple of years ago and ended up giving them away. The particular ones I had tried used a single locking bar gizmo instead of the nice spring loaded multi-plate setup the Ponies have. I personally use 3/4" only - but I'm not sure why - either someone more experienced once told me too or some other reason I can't remember. (man, that's a poor justification isn't it). I've keep threatening to try a few of those aluminum box shaped bar clamps just to see - but the people that make them are just to proud of them - too pricey IMHO.
jim bailey

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Jim Bailey wrote:

Ditto.
I use the 1/2" onna 'count of they will perform good enough for wooddorking "and", the big "and" a glued up panel doesn't weigh near as much as a panel loaded up with 3/4" pipes.

A'yup. For the price of a single Bessy I can (I do) have three pipe clamps and I'm not limited to, or stuck with, a certain size.
UA100
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codepath wrote:

There are two kinds of pipe clamp that I'm familiar with. One kind can be used both as a clamp and a spreader. This kind of clamp does not require the pipe to be threaded. Both end pieces of the clamp can be slid along the pipe to any desired position. The other, cheaper, kind of pipe clamp needs the pipe to be threaded on one end. The clamp piece with the tightening screw is threaded onto this end of the pipe.
--
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Steve

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Seems like a kind of silly design to require you to have to thread the end when they could just close the end of the clamp to fit over the pipe like a cap.
Of well.
Thanks,
codepath

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the end, it would slip off again when you tried to tighten the clamp.
-- Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?
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Thanks for the quick response folks. (I rolled up the tips below)
Pipe Clamp Tips: 1. DOH! (on the where, told you it was a stupid question) 2. Add 6" 3. Thread one end
Thanks again,
codepath

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Get both ends threaded (it doesn't cost more - at least not at the BORG), it does, however, allow the use of a pipe fitting to put two pipes together into a looong pipe clamp on those few occasions that you need one
Dave Hall
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Good call. Thanks.
codepath

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I use both 1/2" and 3/4", work about the same to me.
also saw a guy once put two sets of pipe clamps on one pipe, one on each end. Used them to clamp up his cope and stick doors, when he stood them up in the corner they only took up half the space.
--

http://users.adelphia.net/~kyhighland


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Pipe clamps come in handy for heavy duty clamping they also can be made to any length or, using a coupler, extended.
Any hardware store or plumber supply house should have black pipe which they will cut and tread for you. For a price of course. Both Lowes and HD carry it in set lengths.
Get some pipe clamps and bar clamps. You are not always going to need the clamping power of pipe clamps and they are heavy and awkward for doing, say, a jewelry box.
Get 3/4" pipe clamps. They come with a better tightening handle and 1/2 can be prone to bow if you really have to put the pressure on and the pipe is long.
--
Mike G.
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I ahve a pair of couplers for longer lengths (my longest single pipe is 8'). While building our shed I had a use for three lengths together (8-5-8). I forget why now, but that was a *heavy* clamp!
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My 2 cents
!) Go with 3/4" Pony (about $12 ea, sometimes on sale but pretty rare lately) 2) Buy pipe threaded both ends and then cut in the middle (you only need threads on one end to make this thing work...back end doesn't need (or like) threads. It prefers to go naked)... Take a piece of 10' (Borg sells it) and make two 5 footers, a 6 footer and a 4 footer, a 7 footer and a 3 footer ...you get the idea. Pipe is cheap so have some fun. Buy lots of pipe and inter-change a few clamps as needed. 3) Don't drop one of those suckers on your big toe (don't ask how I know that).
writes:

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Clamping power of pipe clamps? How about the clamping power of something like the Record T-bar clamp, or cramp. Two tonnes of clamping pressure, a rigid, smooth, adjustable pinned stop on the other end, hard to beat. Best clamp around IMO, hard, real hard to go back to pipe clamps after using these. Unfortuantly they're not availible in North America anymore, but worth a trip to the UK.
Jeffo
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My opinion is to thread both ends and get a threaded PVC cap to go on the far end. This is a cheap way to protect the threads from a hostile world, and to protect your work when you are swinging the clamp around the shop.

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