pipe pipe clamp rack

not just for pipe clamps
https://www.todayshomeowner.com/video/pipe-clamp-rack/
he puts end caps on the pipe to protect the threads from something
but to me it is somehwat of a fail
over engineered and it is not made of wood
a few scraps and the same solution could be made
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On Sat, 2 Jun 2018 13:26:01 -0700, Electric Comet

I certainly wouldn't want them coming down on my head. This might work if all the clamps are the same size but then it takes a lot of space to store them all. I prefer something like this mounted to the wall. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-parallel-clamp-rack
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On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 3:26:05 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:

End caps are to prevent the pipes from sliding off the ends. End caps stic k up about 1/8 to 1/4 inch.

Over engineered to screw some flanges to the floor beams and screw some pip es into the flanges? Seems very simple and easy to me. All of your woodwo rking machines are made of metal. Are you a worthless loser of a woodworke r because of it? The clamps aren't wood either. Metal clamps should be st ored on metal pipes.

I don't like it because the clamps aren't easily available. They are up hi gh. Hard to reach. And getting some of the inside ones is not easy. Do y ou have to remove all the outside ones to get the ones on the inside? Or m onkey around and try to knock the one interior clamp up 6 inches to try to get it out? Just not as easy as having them all in a line leaning against a wall.
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On Sun, 3 Jun 2018 12:21:08 -0700 (PDT), " snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com"

I dunno about him, but I can touch the overhead subfloor in my basement while standing flatfooted, so this is a non-issue. And if all the clamps stored on a given rack are the same, why do you need to get the inner one first?
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On Sun, 03 Jun 2018 18:21:51 -0400, J. Clarke

I have 9' ceilings. So you're going to build a separate hanger for each length? That works but it takes a lot more beams. I'm not sure about putting a lot (any, in my case) torque on the (engineered) joists. I much prefer wall hangers.
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On Sunday, June 3, 2018 at 6:43:17 PM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@notreal.com wrote:

stick up about 1/8 to 1/4 inch.

pipes into the flanges? Seems very simple and easy to me. All of your wo odworking machines are made of metal. Are you a worthless loser of a woodw orker because of it? The clamps aren't wood either. Metal clamps should b e stored on metal pipes.

p high. Hard to reach. And getting some of the inside ones is not easy. Do you have to remove all the outside ones to get the ones on the inside? Or monkey around and try to knock the one interior clamp up 6 inches to try to get it out? Just not as easy as having them all in a line leaning agai nst a wall.

Some of my rectangular heat ducts run perpendicular, and therefore below, m y basement joists. 2 side by side ducts give me about 3.5' of flat surface. I store some of my longer clamps on top of the duct work, in the joist bays. I can reach them with ease and they co me out individually.
My 12" to 36" clamps hang on wall hangers in the shop.
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On Sun, 3 Jun 2018 19:44:25 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

Seems like a lot of weight on the ducts but if it works...
My joists are manufactured I-Beams (2x3s top and bottom of OSB panels), so they aren't much good for hanging anything. All walls are 2x6, so work out much better.

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On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 9:39:29 PM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@notreal.com wrote:

ps stick up about 1/8 to 1/4 inch.

ome pipes into the flanges? Seems very simple and easy to me. All of your woodworking machines are made of metal. Are you a worthless loser of a wo odworker because of it? The clamps aren't wood either. Metal clamps shoul d be stored on metal pipes.

e up high. Hard to reach. And getting some of the inside ones is not easy . Do you have to remove all the outside ones to get the ones on the inside ? Or monkey around and try to knock the one interior clamp up 6 inches to try to get it out? Just not as easy as having them all in a line leaning a gainst a wall.

o
, my basement joists.

my longer clamps on top

come out individually.

Heavy duty 1950's ductwork. Plenty strong enough.

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On Sunday, June 3, 2018 at 5:21:54 PM UTC-5, J. Clarke wrote:

tick up about 1/8 to 1/4 inch.

pipes into the flanges? Seems very simple and easy to me. All of your woo dworking machines are made of metal. Are you a worthless loser of a woodwo rker because of it? The clamps aren't wood either. Metal clamps should be stored on metal pipes.

high. Hard to reach. And getting some of the inside ones is not easy. D o you have to remove all the outside ones to get the ones on the inside? O r monkey around and try to knock the one interior clamp up 6 inches to try to get it out? Just not as easy as having them all in a line leaning again st a wall.

Lets pretend you have four each of 50", 40" and 24" Bessy clamps. Twelve c lamps. You put in four or five of these pipes about one foot apart. The 5 0" clamps span the whole 5 pipe length. The 40" clamps span only 4 of the pipes. The 24" clamps span 3 of the pipes. To get the 50" or 40" clamps y ou will have to lift them out of the middle. Or as you say, put up separat e pipes for each length of clamps. Probably a lot of people on this site h ave clamps of 6 feet all the way down to 1 foot. So you have six different sets of pipes on beams in the basement. Might run out of linear space for all the pipes since you cannot put different length clamps on the same set of pipes. I can touch the beam standing on my basement floor. Not the su bfloor. Subfloor is almost 8 feet high in my basement. I live in the Midw est where we build basements a full height. 8 feet.
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On 6/3/2018 2:21 PM, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

I don't like it because the clamp yo always want will be mixed somewhere the outer most clamp.
My Set up. Dense and no clamps blocking any other clamps.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/32062259246/in/dateposted-public/
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On 6/4/18 9:10 AM, Leon wrote:

I like the way the shorter clamps stack under the longer ones, between the bars. I'm stealing that idea.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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On 6/4/2018 9:16 AM, -MIKE- wrote:

FWIW the clamps are tilted back slightly, when hanging, to insure they do not get bumped and fall off. I'm certain there would be other ways to guard against that if mounted directly to a vertical wall. This set up is on a mobile clamp cart.
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On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 10:10:32 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:

stick up about 1/8 to 1/4 inch.

pipes into the flanges? Seems very simple and easy to me. All of your wo odworking machines are made of metal. Are you a worthless loser of a woodw orker because of it? The clamps aren't wood either. Metal clamps should b e stored on metal pipes.

p high. Hard to reach. And getting some of the inside ones is not easy. Do you have to remove all the outside ones to get the ones on the inside? Or monkey around and try to knock the one interior clamp up 6 inches to try to get it out? Just not as easy as having them all in a line leaning agai nst a wall.

Did you use Dominoes to attach the blocks? ;-)
My wall mounted rack is similar to yours, except that I cut "teeth" into a long board instead of attaching individual blocks.
https://i.imgur.com/yWWd3U3.jpg
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On Sun, 3 Jun 2018 12:21:08 snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

he said to protect the threads so why would he care at all about the threads is he planning on using them for some other purpose and wants to maintain the threads
he is not thinking clearly and that is a bad thing in any shop
if the clamps slide off the end it is a even worse idea
some nicely crafted ones made from wood scraps would look much better and be free and not require a trip to the store
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