Painting a Table Saw table?

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I know I am probably going to get bashed for asking this, but I live in Oregon and have a lot of moisture problems in my shop. I wax my table saw, but still have trouble with surface rust. I looked at the empire product and will probably try that. Then I got to thinking, why exactly can I not paint the surface of my table saw, with say rust-oleum. If I sand with 600 grit between coats it would be very smooth, and I could wax on top of that, to make sure the wood slides easily. I would never have to worry about rust again. No one does this, so I am guessing there must be a reason why. I just can't think of what it is.
Thanks in advance.
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none today wrote:

The edge of the cast iron top on my old (30 yrs) Rockwell/Beaver saw is painted black. A King saw that I saw at a dealer recently had the edge of the cast iron top painted gray. (however it was already chipping off with some rust underneath -needless to say I didn't buy one). As long as you got it really clean and devoid of grease and wax and rust, it should probably work.
Are there any professional paint shops in your area that could powder coat it?
Rob
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Why not laminate with Formica or something slick. You can glue it on and remove it with heat when you want. max

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This may be ABSOLUTELY ridiculous, but consider having it chromed. I bet it would not be over $100 -- and the whoa! factor would be really high.
Matthew

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Matthew wrote:

have to take the table off the big iron anyway...
-Phil Crow
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On 30 Jan 2005 19:08:56 -0800, the inscrutable snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com spake:

Guys, be SURE to post links to pics of those if and when you do it. I'd love to see 'em.
======================================================== The Titanic. The Hindenburg. + http://www.diversify.com The Clintons. + Website & Graphic Design ========================================================
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I have overhead lights in my shop and when I work on shiny stuff on my bench as I move around you get the full reflection of the lights off of the shiny surface. You dont' want to be running your hand next to the blade and suddenly get "snow blinded" from a chromed saw top. max

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Why not nickel plating?
--
Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
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This is not so crazy. I lived in Fla for a while, rust is an issue!
I had a friend that owned a body shop, treated the top to a few coats of auto primer, sanded, and put a few coats of silver, (auto paint, lacquer based I believe). 10 years later, still smooth, not so shiny. I wax it a few times a year.

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Yea, or the "black chrome"......hmmmmm....

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Sun, Jan 30, 2005, 9:03pm (EST-1) snipped-for-privacy@charter.net (Matthew) tosses out: This may be ABSOLUTELY ridiculous, but consider having it chromed. I bet it would not be over $100 -- and the whoa! factor would be really high.
Not that many chrome shops around anymore. Anyway, chrome scratches pretty easily. And, I bet it'd cost more than $100.
Might want to look into nickle plating. That can be done at home, very simple, tho I don't know about something as large as that. Maybe parkerized? Ah, Hell, just paint the damn thing, it'd be cheaper, you can do it yourself, and if it gets scratched, you can repair it. And, you can use yellow paint.
JOAT The first method of estimating the intelligence of a ruler is to look at the men he has around him. - Niccolo Machiavelli
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Maybe i'm paranoid, but I believe there have been studies showing that nickel plating is a carcinogen.
(Matthew)

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Mon, Jan 31, 2005, 1:17pm (EST+5) snipped-for-privacy@eastlink.ca (OldMan) says: Maybe i'm paranoid, but I believe there have been studies showing that nickel plating is a carcinogen.
I read one that said charcoal broiled steak was a carcinogen. But, the doctor that did the study said he was still gonna eat it - very minor risk.
JOAT The first method of estimating the intelligence of a ruler is to look at the men he has around him. - Niccolo Machiavelli
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wrote:

So are barbecued hamburgers. Take reasonable precautions.
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
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I'm getting rid of all the nickels in my pocket. Copper is supposed to be bad also, so I'm getting rid of them also. Dollar bills are filthy so I tossed all of them.
Sure with I could afford a cup of coffee, but got rid of all the contaminated stuff I had.
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Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

Rob
PS. Next time just mail the cash to me. I don't believe in evidence based medicine.
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Only in California. It's safe anywhere else.

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I suggested maybe parkerizing. Then did a quick google. Looks quite doable, at quite reasonable prices. Maybe even as cheap as paint. If you try it, let us know the results. http://www.shootersolutions.com/homepark.html
JOAT The first method of estimating the intelligence of a ruler is to look at the men he has around him. - Niccolo Machiavelli
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J T wrote:

Well he could cold blue it. That's even easier. Na. stick with the paint.
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On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 22:32:54 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (J T) wrote:

Doesn't parkerizing basically convert the surface of the metal into a not-so-smooth sponge-like surface so that it will absorb oil well? That has always been my understanding of its use as a firearms finish, that it does a great job of preventing corrosion because it holds oil so well, not because of anything in the finish itself. Parkerized guns are also not as smooth and slick feeling as blued ones.
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
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