I like it! Somehow, I would expect nothing less from you. The more I
think about this detail the more I like it.
I went to a couple of free seminars years ago that Southwest Research
put on for our builder's association that concerned airflow and its
relation to cooling and heating a house.
They were very keen on air movement, regardless of the climate, unless
of course looking at extremes. (For example, the same insulative
processes wouldn't be used in Anchorage as Arizona).\
It was the same idea that got me onto ridge vent on houses almost 20
years ago. Yours truly was one (if not the first) to start putting
ridge venting on houses.
The sold me by showing me a video from an independent lab of two
small, one room buildings of about 250 sq ft. with conventional
turbines (2) on one and continuous ridge vent installed on the other.
They set of a mil spec pink smoke bomb in the attic to test the air
The attic space (eyeballed about a 5/12) was timed to see how long it
took the smoke to be completely exchanged with clean, fresh air from
The turbine roof took over two hours! The roof with the ridge vent
took just a little over twenty minutes to clear the smoke. The amount
of heat that was whisked away was incredible. I was so impressed that
I contacted Owens Corning and they sent me copies of the VHS tape that
I saw and I used them as sales tools.
I certainly don't see how a continuous air flow powered by mother
nature's heat would work any differently on your siding detail than on
a roof/attic detail. It is the same exact principle, so I would
expect the same results. Good results.
Thanks for taking the time to type all that out, and the good
explanation that came with it.
An attic always has more heat gain, even if shaded by trees, than
siding on the North side of the building, so the temperature
differential and the chimney effect is greatly reduced.
The eave/ridge vents are there to remove heat, and to some degree,
moisture. Rain screen design is meant to reduce moisture, and has an
added benefit of reducing heat gain, but heat gain is not always a bad
thing - at least not in all climates. I want all the heat gain I can
get in winter.
It sounds like you routinely set the nails below the surface and then
putty. Am I reading that wrong?
A common variation around here is to have the vented rain screen vent
at the top of the wall and the air does not enter the attic space.
There's a move to unvented with spray foam insulation, which prevents
any air at all from getting into the attic. A similar folded screen
'cap' is at the top of the wall vent screen, and it is hidden by
horizontal trim running under the soffit.
Absolutely will hold up. Like most cement or brick prioducts Hardi products
are porus and do not fit together tightly enough to prevent water from
blowing in through the bottom of the panels or joints. The moisture barrier
is to protect the contents not the siding.
I have used the Hardi "planks" on my home and on my shed. I strongly
suggest you do some cross bracing of the walls and not rely on the Hardi or
any product of similar nature to ad structural strength of your shed. Hardi
prioducts are a strong siding that lasts many years but if the wall wiggles
the fantener holes in the product will wollow out. Use this type siding to
keep the elements out and not to add strength to the structure.
That AND the hole that the fastener is not a tight one, Hardi does not seal
up tight against the fastener like wood will. If the fasteners are exposed
and not "perfectly" seated water can come through the hardi at the fastener.
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