One of our siding panels (plywood with vertical grooves) has a section
that is "squishy." It's not a full panel, as it has a window opening cut
in it. Even assuming that a replacement panel would have the same
texture, would it be OK to cut the old panel right below the windows and
"splice" in a new section (and caulk the joint), or is it essential to
replace the whole panel, which means removing the window casing etc.?
It is not structural in that it is holding up the wall. I'd try to make
a "ship lap" joint if possible. You'd have to cut with the saw set to
an angle. That way you'd have less change of water leaking in even if
It sounds like you've got T-111. It's just cheap fir
plywood with grooves cut in it. You certainly can
piece in a section, but that would look pretty tacky
and might eventually let water in. Also, how are you
going to get a good cut on the piece that stays on
the house, especially cross-grain?
A new sheet is not expensive and the job is not
very involved. If it were me I'd just replace the whole
thing. Otherwise you might spend more time and money
in the long run trying to "patch your patch".
| One of our siding panels (plywood with vertical grooves) has a section
| that is "squishy." It's not a full panel, as it has a window opening cut
| in it. Even assuming that a replacement panel would have the same
| texture, would it be OK to cut the old panel right below the windows and
| "splice" in a new section (and caulk the joint), or is it essential to
| replace the whole panel, which means removing the window casing etc.?
I've just measured it and found that it's 9ft long -- but the only
panels I can find at the local stores are only 8ft; nothing even close
at Lowe's or HD, only 8ft at Menards (Wisconsin-based chain).
On 06/05/14 10:32 am, Mayayana wrote:
| I've just measured it and found that it's 9ft long -- but the only
| panels I can find at the local stores are only 8ft; nothing even close
| at Lowe's or HD, only 8ft at Menards (Wisconsin-based chain).
Interesting. It sounds like something custom. If you have
to use 2 pieces then Ed's advice makes sense to me, but that
still probably requires taking it off so that you can get a neat
On Thu, 05 Jun 2014 09:08:46 -0400, "Percival P. Cassidy"
IO would say it is essential to replace the whole panel and to seal
around the window where the water is getting in to make the lower part
"squishy". Do it right or wish you had. "why is there ALWAYS enough
time and money to do a job over (and over) but never enough to do it
What made it soft in the first place? Likely water.
Where did the water get in? Likey at the window.
How do you stop water from getting in?
Fix the leak
How do you fix the leak?
Remove the window trim - Likely.
Remove the trim. Remove the whole panel. Determine where it was
leaking. Fix the leak and replace the entire panel
On Thu, 05 Jun 2014 17:57:58 -0400, "Percival P. Cassidy"
Go to a real lumber yard. The 9 ft long pieces are available. The
box stores don't usually carry that size and the quality of their
T-111 is not that good. Often it will be OSB and not plywood. You
get what you pay for.
There's a leak somewhere and I agree it needs to be addressed as to
where the water came from--that the collection isn't directly below the
window itself doesn't _necessarily_ mean it isn't a flashing problem
there running along an internal cross-brace to that point where it (the
brace) meets the stud and forms a collection pocket, say. Simply
covering up whatever the problem again isn't going to make that go away
and you don't know what structural damage has been created internally
that only shows up as the siding externally...
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