The bottom edge of the skirt, cut at 30°, doesn't allow water wicking across an otherwise flat bottom and up the back side. A 12" galvanized strip, behind the skirt and slightly lower than the bottom edge, will help keep out any moisture, also... but I'm not sure of your foundation for warranting this gal. strip.
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pics can be readily gotten, if need be.
Gotta agree with using a moisture barier to keep the contents dry. My shed went through Hurricane Ike a bouple of years ago and not a drop of water came in. I did however use the more expensive Tyvek sheathing over tar paper. I used the Tyvek over tar paper for two reasons, I did not want to smell the tar smell inside the shed on a hot summer day and the Tyvek is white not black, that helps the interior to be lighter inside when the door is the only source of light.
As I mentioned, loads and the elements don't differentiate between a shed and any other structure, so why do you? I don't build to minimum anything. Life's too short to work with crappy tools, do crappy work or build just-acceptable. Our opinions may vary on this.
Why would you want caulk on a shed? Hmm, I guess for the same reason that you'd want paint on Hardi-anything.
Ah, that explains things. I don't build from kits...at least I haven't since my Erector set days.
...in your opinion. This is the same opinion that leaves Hardi unpainted. You said your shed was a store-bought kit. Were all of the Hardipanel pieces pre-cut with sealed edges?
You're happy with what you built, as you should be, and that's fine with me. My issue is that you're glossing over issues, and have cut some corners, which makes some of your advice suspect.
I didn't mention our location and that is a factor. We are in the SE corner of Kansas, very close to the Ozarks. High humidity is a concern. Termites too, but will treat for them.
I built a slightly smaller shed 20-25 years ago, using Masonite, vertical-look sheeting; and was concerned about interior impacts. That material is probably much less impact resistant than Smart panels. I installed a 2X4 "bumper strip" around the interior at about tractor, wheelbarrow, tiller height. Some of the rest was protected by shelving. Will do the same here.
I took a look at a demo video on LP's web site last night that kinda got my attention regarding impact resistance of Smart panels vs concrete fiber:
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helped me decide about un-backed cement board. Some of LP's other info and videos have me leaning toward Smart Panel. The treatments they used during manufacture do provide a good deal of termite and rot resistance. However, it is clear they are concerned with moisture intrusion beyond the outer facing. T-11 is also a good product but in the rural area where we are located, I might have to drive more than 100 miles to get pressure treated material; and then I am still looking at a 3-5 year cleaning and re-staining cycle. Heading in to retirement and that might get tedious in 10 or 15 years.
Who said anything about crappy work? Are you insulating your shed? Are you putting drywall up in the inside? Why not, if "loads and the elements don't differentiate between a shed and any other structure?"
Ohhh, we're taking the arrogant approach, are we? If you must know, after designing and building my own home and moving to another, having a truckload of crap to store, I was a bit stressed out and wanted the fastest, dumbest manner in which to get my $h!t stored so I could get to the rest of why we moved in the first place.
The other house additions I've designed and built for friends weren't done from kits either, if that helps you come down from that pedestal.
All I'm saying is I have a shed out there with hardipanel as the only structural sheathing and it's as solid as the day I put it up, 10yrs ago. Mileage may vary, but if a guy just wants to keep rain of his mower and shovels, he can save a lot of time and money by not building it like a house.
Whoa. STOP. Stain is not the way to low maintenance and there is absoutely nothing about T1-11 that makes stain preferable to paint on it. You can't stain hardipanel and you can't stain smart panel, so why would you want to stain T1-11?
Bingo. And that is 75% of the reason you have a moisture barrier. Having attended more than one cementitious product installation instructional seminar they all agree to that. That is also why they STRONGLY recommend a suitable paint over the siding.
With our weather extremes, I am gunshy about installing Hardie on long unbroken runs. Tough to beat on areas that are just a couple of pieces (or less) wide, but long runs don't seem to be a good fit with our weather. I have mitigated the problem of the product expanding and contracting somewhat by using good quality paint to prime the backside before installation on the longer runs. Shorter runs still receive nothing.
I have gone to houses that we clad with cement planking a few years ago, and in long runs (say 40 - 50' across a house) that stuff moves like crazy even after a factory rep certified our proper installation (at the request of the client).
Which leads to the second reason for a "moisture barrier". Slip sheathing. When you nail off the siding directly onto the wood (sheathing or studs) it creates enough friction that when the siding moves it will tear up the connection points. (See Leon's post on the wallowed out holes further down). The barrier allows the cement siding to "slip" a bit around the fasteners since it is not directly nailed to hard contact the wood. Since movement can/will cause spalling and thus loose siding, why take any kind of chance? I can't. I have to warrant my product.
That is why on a shed or an open shop we just use 15# or 30# felt. Works great, and cheap, too.
Your above is why I use "vent skin" construction on a house finished with siding products, particularly in our "hot, humid climate" building zone.
By layer, as follows: sheathing; 30# felt (or tyvek); vertical 1x4's @
16" OC installed thru/to soffit/attic floor; siding nailed to 1x4's.
(Note: I don't like to blind nail cement board using this method and would rather putty nail holes prior to painting.)
The resultant 3/4" gap between the sheathing and siding from first course all the way into atic (with a 9" screen folded over 1x4's at the bottom to keep out insects"), PLUS ridge vent(s), will insure a continuous flow of air moving up the sides of the structure and out the roof vent.
Any moisture that does penetrate the siding will be mitigated by said air flow, which keeps thing dry over the long haul.
An excellent construction method where high wind and rain is expected.
That AND the hole that the fastener is not a tight one, Hardi does not seal up tight against the fastener like wood will. If the fasteners are exposed and not "perfectly" seated water can come through the hardi at the fastener.
The way you're saying it, the tar paper is next to the studs and the building smells like tar. You meant to say tar paper over Tyvek, right? The layers are studs, tyvek, tarpaper, siding, in order of installation.
-- Know how to listen, and you will profit even from those who talk badly. -- Plutarch
I said shed or an open shop, you said house. On a house, I use the paper/Tyvek combo.
I was trying to keep in context in my post.
Naww..... just messin' with you.
A reluctant SNIP of really good stuff...
Excellent, indeed. That really sounds like the stuff, there. I have heard of similar installation processes, but *never* that detailed or well thought out.
Is that a KarlCo =A9 original detail? If so, it's a keeper. I am going to bookmark that one for future reference. Every once in a while we replace wood siding on a heavy sun facing with Hardie, and that really seems like the detail we need on a house.
Impressive. No kidding. I have been thinking that over for a couple of hours. Impressive...
As one of my colleagues likes to say, "I think I'll put that one in my pocket and take it with me."
Have you gotten any feedback from the clients where you have followed this detail about siding movement or heat transfer?
My BIGGEST problem is movement, mainly shrinkage. We have used that crap recommended by Hardie call "Big Stretch", and that was the worst latex elastomeric crap I have ever used. Made it two seasons on the sun side of the house without tearing. I never have any bulging joints (I only buy from a yard that properly stores the planking) but I always have some shrinkage. I push them up tight, and they still shrink as much about 1/8" during the droughts, but close back up when the rainy season starts. (You know, also known as winter around here.)
Priming the backside has mitigated that a bit, but certainly not eliminated it.
It sounds like you routinely set the nails below the surface and then putty. Am I reading that wrong?
A common variation around here is to have the vented rain screen vent at the top of the wall and the air does not enter the attic space. There's a move to unvented with spray foam insulation, which prevents any air at all from getting into the attic. A similar folded screen 'cap' is at the top of the wall vent screen, and it is hidden by horizontal trim running under the soffit.
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