One for the "Pet Peeve" catagory

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Yes, we all have learned how to "bend" the capabilities of equipment, but no more than in computers and computer driven equipment.
All this brings back the first computer driven typesetter that I had purchased. I managed to automate the typesetting of a 36pp booklet with month calendars split over the binding. Today that is simple, but when you have to code all the rules and dates in commands, and get it all to run on a computer with 1k of memory available for the coding. It ran so slow that each page took 45 minutes to output. We would start it up when we went home and came in the morning to wait for it to finish, if there was a power problem or thunderstorm overnight, we had to start from the start again. The computer ran "core" memory, you could turn the power off and it would still remember its programs. However a thunderstorm would scramble the program, so you would have to reload from a paper tape.
I am glad after 39 years to be out of that business. The pressures of juggling 100 or more deadlines simultaneously were killing me. Now I do woodworking for a rest.
wrote:

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I use decimals more than 1/8 (etc) inch rulers. I find it easier to add dimensions, divide into sections, etc. Buy yourself a decimal straightedge and I bet you'll like using it.
-- Larry C in Auburn WA

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wrote:

Jack:
I've used a lot of 3832 slides and IIRC, the first hole from the front of the cabinet needs to be centered at 37mm, in order to provide the proper setback of the slide. From there the rest of the holes should follow a 32mm pattern to the back of the slide.
The last time I made a template, I printed out a CAD sheet with the 37mm hole and then 32mm spacing, spray adhesived to some 1/4" MDF, centerpunched and drilled, and it worked fine.
I never bothered with the bracket kit and simply milled pieces to pack out the sides to the inside edge of the face frame.
(Of course, my 32mm line borer is for sale - if you're going to be doing a lot of these.)
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker (ret) Real Email is: tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet Website: http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
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Tom Watson wrote:

The measurements I referred to are the hole spacing in the brackets to center the bracket vertically in the opening. The brackets are indented to index off the inside of the face frame to give the proper set back.

I'm retro-fitting some existing cabinets. They're are two drawer in each cabinet. The unit is open across the full width, except for the face frame. There is nothing inside the cabinet, between the drawers, to attach any blocking.

Not if I can help it. I'm not particularly fond of doing retro's, but the original cabinet construction is pretty good. The drawers were molded plastic and have always sucked.
-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
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wrote:

Sorry, I'm not familiar with them.

Perfect opportunity to use the pocket hole jig.
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker (ret) Real Email is: tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet Website: http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
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wrote:

were the original drawer guides center undermounted? in any case either type can be bracket mounted without screwing directly to the side of the cabinet- although I prefer to directly mount them. it's a more solid attachment.     Bridger
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