New Band Saw Questions

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I also have the Jet 14" open stand. Mine are not coplanar and the unit came assembled in the box, the instructions say nothing on this adjustment, and the blades seem to track fine. I don't plan on touching mine unless I could be convinced I have a problem.
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Jerry wrote:

Thanks for the report Jerry. I wonder if you would check something for me.
See if the blade is square to the table in the direction of the line of cut. Obviously in the other direction, you would simply adjust the table, but in this direction, there is no adjustment.
With mine, I have found that it is out by perhaps 3 degrees, or the depth of a tooth over about 6". Although the blade tracks well, etc, this seems to be a much more serious issue.
I am just wondering if this is an issue brought about by the wheels not being coplaner. If yours is square, then I will probably look at other possibilities.
Anybody else have ideas on this?
And again, let me thank all who have provided help on this issue. Harvey
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eclipsme wrote:

I had/have this. It was more obvious at first, then I did something to lessen the problem--it's still there, at 1/2 degree (+/- 5'), but it's not pressing. Don't know what it was I did though.
er
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Coplanar works in conjunction with the tracking knob. The objective with crowned tires is to let the blade ride the crown about mid-width. If your crowns are not coplanar at mid-adjustment, you may not have enough authority in the tracking mechanism to achieve consistent tracking. The blades will have a tendency to "surge" forward and than aft
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George wrote:

Thanks for the thought, but no, this is not what is going on. The blade tracks very well, though a bit behind middle on the upper wheel and a bit in front of middle on the bottom. The issue that has me continuing this is that the blade is not perpendicular to the table in the direction of the cut, which seems to me to be a fairly serious issue.
Harvey
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It is exactly the same issue. Move the bottom wheel to get the things square and upright.

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George wrote:

I will look at this.
Harvey
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Harvey, I don't see how the wheels can be adjusted either. Have you called the service department at JET ? For technical service concerning JET, POWERMATIC, PERFORMAX, and WILTON retail products call 800-274-6846 - 7:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. (CST, Monday - Friday). You never know what to expect from a service department but they might be knowledgable and helpful.
Charlie

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Yes, Charlie. I have called - twice, in fact. The first time I was told to loosen the bolt holding the lower and upper units together, and that this would give me enough movement for adjustment.
It didn't.
I then called first thing yesterday. I was asked to take pictures and send them. I created a web page showing how the blade is not square to the table, and sent the technician the link. I have not heard back.
Here is the link: http://www.eclipsme.com/bandsaw.htm
Harvey
Charlie H. wrote:

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Doesn't look like they gave you any shim room on that bottom wheel, if I interpret the picture correctly. It could use to go forward half the straightedge gap distance, which would give you about twice the correction to run that blade back to the crown.
Glad I have "old iron" in my shop.Without the blade, when you raise the upper guard, does the deviation from vertical on a point on it display the same displacement? If it does, could be that he's right, and it's a riser block problem.
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eclipsme wrote:

I haven't tried this on my own, but I have read (I think it was in the amazon reviews) that for a while delta(?) risers weren't fitting properly to their bandsaws and the "solution" was to remove the alignment pins on the riser to allow it to be fitted.
You might consider doing something similar to change the relationship of the lower and upper frame. You should probably contact Jet first to see what they think of it.
er
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Enoch Root wrote:

Thanks for the suggestion. I spoke with Jet yesterday. The tech was going to contact his supervisor, etc, and get back to me on Monday. I can only see 2 ways of resolving this - shim the lower wheel out, if possible, or your suggestion. I hadn't actually thought of removing the alignment pins, but I don't see how that could hurt. Then it would just be a matter of sliding the upper unit out until everything lined up.
Harvey
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Since the Jet tech told you to try to adjust the riser block that would suggest that the wheels are supposed to be coplanar. If they try to reverse direction and tell you that they are currently correct be very suspicious. Someone mentioned possibly removing the alignment pin so the riser could be aligned, I don't know about removing the alignment pin, that would make a single bolt have to hold everything together on every axis. Stuff happens when you are using power tools and without that pin there is nothing to keep the two pieces from twisting if something heavy knocks into it. In my opinion this would be an unacceptable solution to a manufacturing problem. I know all manufacturers have a hiccup once in a while, so hopefully they will step up to the plate and get this resolved. In the event that you cannot get satisfaction dealing directly with Jet, since you ordered the saw through Woodcraft, what is their opinion on this ? Can you return the saw for a full refund ? If this is an option I might go for it instead of continuing to mess with what you have. In the 14" saws I found very little difference between Jet, Delta, and Rigid. The only reason I ended up buying a Jet instead of a Rigid was a combination offer from Rockler of sale price, rebate, and free table vise, otherwise I would have bought the Rigid saw from Home Depot because it was $150 cheaper at regular price.
Hang in there, Charlie
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Charlie H. wrote:

Yes, it will be interesting to hear what Jet says, hopefully tomorrow. I appreciate your comments regarding removing the locater pins. Perhaps I will need to drill new holes in the riser block. You are certainly right, stuff happens.
Harvey
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Did this issue ever get resolved ? If so what was the solution ?
Regards, Charlie

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Charlie H. wrote:

Yes, Charlie, it has. I posted a report yesterday under a different heading, but include it below for you: ================================================As I wrote earlier, my new 14" JET bandsaw arrived with the wheels about 1/4" out of plane, though the saw cut well. However, the blade was not square to the table in the direction of cut. I created a web page to show the JET tech what was going on.
See:
http://www.eclipsme.com/bandsaw.htm
The tech thought that the riser block may have been machined badly, which I didn't believe as the saw had the problem before I put the riser block in. However, he offered to send me a new one, which I accepted.
Sure enough, there was no improvement, but I took the opportunity of having 2 riser blocks to experiment on one.
As mentioned here, I though of cutting off the pins to allow me to adjust the upper part of the saw, but somebody on this group (sorry, I don't remember who) pointed out that it could be dangerous if the bolt loosened for any reason as there would be nothing to stop the upper part of the saw from twisting around the bolt.
So instead, I drilled new locater holes in the riser block 1/4" offset. after installing it so the upper part is now 1/4" further back than originally, the wheels are ever so close to being coplaner, the blade is square, and I just re-sawed some 5" southern yellow pine into 1/8" veneers, plus or minus 1/16" (thicknesses from 1/16 - 3/16") which I considered very good indeed. The surface is also much cleaner than I had before, though that could be due to better guide setup.
I don't have any idea why the saw was designed this way, but I am very happy with the solution. I can recommend this saw to others, but with the caveat that you may want to either perform the same modification, or perhaps shim the bottom wheel out. BTW - tech okeyed shimming, and promised it wouldn't affect the warranty. I was concerned about the wheel riding 1/4" further out on the shaft, with added wear. Anyway, I am now happy with what I have.
Thank you for everyone's suggestions.
Harvey

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