I also have the Jet 14" open stand. Mine are not coplanar and the unit
came assembled in the box, the instructions say nothing on this
adjustment, and the blades seem to track fine. I don't plan on
touching mine unless I could be convinced I have a problem.
Thanks for the report Jerry. I wonder if you would check something for me.
See if the blade is square to the table in the direction of the line of
cut. Obviously in the other direction, you would simply adjust the
table, but in this direction, there is no adjustment.
With mine, I have found that it is out by perhaps 3 degrees, or the
depth of a tooth over about 6". Although the blade tracks well, etc,
this seems to be a much more serious issue.
I am just wondering if this is an issue brought about by the wheels not
being coplaner. If yours is square, then I will probably look at other
Anybody else have ideas on this?
And again, let me thank all who have provided help on this issue.
Coplanar works in conjunction with the tracking knob. The objective with
crowned tires is to let the blade ride the crown about mid-width. If your
crowns are not coplanar at mid-adjustment, you may not have enough authority
in the tracking mechanism to achieve consistent tracking. The blades will
have a tendency to "surge" forward and than aft
Thanks for the thought, but no, this is not what is going on. The blade
tracks very well, though a bit behind middle on the upper wheel and a
bit in front of middle on the bottom. The issue that has me continuing
this is that the blade is not perpendicular to the table in the
direction of the cut, which seems to me to be a fairly serious issue.
I don't see how the wheels can be adjusted either.
Have you called the service department at JET ?
For technical service concerning JET, POWERMATIC, PERFORMAX, and WILTON
retail products call 800-274-6846 - 7:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. (CST, Monday -
You never know what to expect from a service department but they might be
knowledgable and helpful.
Yes, Charlie. I have called - twice, in fact. The first time I was told
to loosen the bolt holding the lower and upper units together, and that
this would give me enough movement for adjustment.
I then called first thing yesterday. I was asked to take pictures and
send them. I created a web page showing how the blade is not square to
the table, and sent the technician the link. I have not heard back.
Here is the link:
Charlie H. wrote:
Doesn't look like they gave you any shim room on that bottom wheel, if I
interpret the picture correctly. It could use to go forward half the
straightedge gap distance, which would give you about twice the correction
to run that blade back to the crown.
Glad I have "old iron" in my shop.Without the blade, when you raise the
upper guard, does the deviation from vertical on a point on it display the
same displacement? If it does, could be that he's right, and it's a riser
I haven't tried this on my own, but I have read (I think it was in the
amazon reviews) that for a while delta(?) risers weren't fitting
properly to their bandsaws and the "solution" was to remove the
alignment pins on the riser to allow it to be fitted.
You might consider doing something similar to change the relationship of
the lower and upper frame. You should probably contact Jet first to see
what they think of it.
Thanks for the suggestion. I spoke with Jet yesterday. The tech was
going to contact his supervisor, etc, and get back to me on Monday. I
can only see 2 ways of resolving this - shim the lower wheel out, if
possible, or your suggestion. I hadn't actually thought of removing the
alignment pins, but I don't see how that could hurt. Then it would just
be a matter of sliding the upper unit out until everything lined up.
Since the Jet tech told you to try to adjust the riser block that would
suggest that the wheels are supposed to be coplanar. If they try to reverse
direction and tell you that they are currently correct be very suspicious.
Someone mentioned possibly removing the alignment pin so the riser could be
aligned, I don't know about removing the alignment pin, that would make a
single bolt have to hold everything together on every axis. Stuff happens
when you are using power tools and without that pin there is nothing to keep
the two pieces from twisting if something heavy knocks into it. In my
opinion this would be an unacceptable solution to a manufacturing problem.
I know all manufacturers have a hiccup once in a while, so hopefully they
will step up to the plate and get this resolved.
In the event that you cannot get satisfaction dealing directly with Jet,
since you ordered the saw through Woodcraft, what is their opinion on this ?
Can you return the saw for a full refund ? If this is an option I might go
for it instead of continuing to mess with what you have.
In the 14" saws I found very little difference between Jet, Delta, and
Rigid. The only reason I ended up buying a Jet instead of a Rigid was a
combination offer from Rockler of sale price, rebate, and free table vise,
otherwise I would have bought the Rigid saw from Home Depot because it was
$150 cheaper at regular price.
Hang in there,
Yes, it will be interesting to hear what Jet says, hopefully tomorrow. I
appreciate your comments regarding removing the locater pins. Perhaps I
will need to drill new holes in the riser block. You are certainly
right, stuff happens.
Yes, Charlie, it has. I posted a report yesterday under a different
heading, but include it below for you:
================================================As I wrote earlier, my new 14" JET bandsaw arrived with the wheels about
1/4" out of plane, though the saw cut well. However, the blade was not
square to the table in the direction of cut. I created a web page to
show the JET tech what was going on.
The tech thought that the riser block may have been machined badly,
which I didn't believe as the saw had the problem before I put the riser
block in. However, he offered to send me a new one, which I accepted.
Sure enough, there was no improvement, but I took the opportunity of
having 2 riser blocks to experiment on one.
As mentioned here, I though of cutting off the pins to allow me to
adjust the upper part of the saw, but somebody on this group (sorry, I
don't remember who) pointed out that it could be dangerous if the bolt
loosened for any reason as there would be nothing to stop the upper part
of the saw from twisting around the bolt.
So instead, I drilled new locater holes in the riser block 1/4" offset.
after installing it so the upper part is now 1/4" further back than
originally, the wheels are ever so close to being coplaner, the blade is
square, and I just re-sawed some 5" southern yellow pine into 1/8"
veneers, plus or minus 1/16" (thicknesses from 1/16 - 3/16") which I
considered very good indeed. The surface is also much cleaner than I had
before, though that could be due to better guide setup.
I don't have any idea why the saw was designed this way, but I am very
happy with the solution. I can recommend this saw to others, but with
the caveat that you may want to either perform the same modification, or
perhaps shim the bottom wheel out. BTW - tech okeyed shimming, and
promised it wouldn't affect the warranty. I was concerned about the
wheel riding 1/4" further out on the shaft, with added wear. Anyway, I
am now happy with what I have.
Thank you for everyone's suggestions.
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