I've been involved in putting up some crown molding, and built a jig
to hold the molding "upside-down and backwards." I'd like to miter a
few inside corners to see how I do compared to coping (what a pain!),
and am looking for a listing for miter settings for non-90 degree
angles. I have a lot that are "close" to 135 degrees, and am looking
for the right setting on the miter saw. I think I have to set it
somewhere around 22.5 and not backwards, but I can't be the only one
who ever had to cut one of these. They measure out to be anywhere
from 132 to 138.
I have a compound miter, but I think the jig is a better way to go,
since I don't have to trust the saw gauges as much.
Any ideas about the settings?
Trial and error. Use a couple pieces of scrap until you get the right
angle. I usually use 1x3 to dial in the angle then cut the crown. You
still need to cut it (the crown) upside down and backwards but the long
point is at the top of the cut (the bottom of the crown).
I never cope crown. It's just such a pain especially when doing 6" stretch
King George in oak. I do use a lot of inside cornices though which means
the inside cuts are straight. It make the job easier plus it gives a more
custom look (to some).
Crown should always be coped, no exceptions in my book. If any wood movement
should occur a simple mitered cut is going to reveal gaps/cracks sooner or
later where a coped joint can hide them better. Besides man its just a
matter of good craftsmanship I feel. You know the old saying, its the
difference between the men and the boys? It applies here. Anyway, I posted a
chart over at alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking for your reference. Should
help you do what you're after to do.
Go here http://www.garymkatz.com/index.htm and look under the "charts
and drawings" heading on the menu to the left. You'll see Joe Fusco's
BIG list of miter settings. As a matter of fact, look at the whole site:
one of the better sites for finish carpentry.
I guess then you've never worked on a new home where you can't control the
movement of the green lumber used in the frame. I've seen this stuff shrink
1/2" and leave a gap behind the drywall, especially here in the desert where
lumber is shipped in wet enough to spurt water when a nail is driven into it
and it dries in a short period of time, usually after the house is occupied.
Eventually, something moves and no one in this big world can know enough to
keep the gap from occurring. Sure, it's not the fault of the finish
carpenter but still, a gap is a gap regardless of how the joint was put
So your'e telling me you can prevent this from happening? Let me in on your
secret. (when you come in as the finish carpenter and have nothing else to
do with the house construction)
James D. Kountz wrote:
Well damn Geedub I didn't know you knew me or what I've done and what kind
of work I do. That's cool that you know though. Just so's ya know buddy I've
been in this line of work 20 years and I've been there and done that so to
speak. Yes shrinkage will occur that's a given but 1/2"?? Damn man that's
excessive even by today's standards. You do understand however the
difference between a joint that's in effect butted together and one that's
fitted together right? Now if the crown itself moves away from the wall,
then that's different. I think in that case I would move the hell out of the
house if I had walls moving around 1/2" or more. Shoddy building leads to
shoddy results. Simple as that. Just please do me one favor if you would.
Never assume you know things about people you couldn't possibly know it
makes you just look silly. Ok?
In my experience, a fundamental element of the coping process is the
layout strategy: namely, you put the coped trim in the best position
relative to the predominant view of the room. This way even if you get
an opening of the joint, it is not as "visible" as it would be
otherwise. With the mitered joint, the opening would be visible no
IMHO, a gap in a coped joint is still preferrable to a gap in a mitered
joint: it looks better than the open bevels of a miterer joint.
Kim's explanation is what I was looking for. It makes sense. In all the
years I've been doing this stuff, no one ever put it so succinctly. Funny
how one can still learn new things if explained the right way (or viewed
James D. Kountz wrote:
If there is an earthquake, anything can separate. The question is a
matter of degrees. If your standard is a good looking joint when a wall
is moving a half inch backwards and sideways, then you are right.
Put a good backcut on the cope and spring it in and even with some
movement, it won't open.
A gap in a miter is apparent from every view. A gap in a cope is visible
from only some. Because the shadow line matches the profile, most people
still won't notice it if it is a little open. You, he and me probably
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