Walls in the kitchen have been prepped and wallpaper going in today.
Next week I'll be putting up the crown molding which is something I've
never done before.
Looked on line at the tutorials and they just show a guy with a brad gun
putting them in staggered about a foot apart.
There is no mention of studs.
Since the small brads are just going into drywall I don't see how that
can hold too well even though the crown molding is very light.
My plan is to put the brads into as many studs as possible...
I went around last night near the ceiling and poked some brads through
the wall where the studs were supposed to be and amazingly found a good
deal of them.
The tutorials recommended construction adhesive as well...I'm wondering
if that's why they did not mention the importance of hitting studs.
The fact that you're putting in nails from 2 directions helps - and using
construction adhesive is a mistake , makes a mess . Before you start , find
where the bottom edge of the molding will be , and strike a chalk line about
1/8" below the lowest point - use blue or white chalk , red will NOT wash
off . This will give you a guide to help keep from twisting the mold as you
work down the wall . If you're painting , mitered corners will be OK , if
staining learn to cope the inside corners for a better fit .
The biggest thing to remember is : When you're cutting the molding , the
wall side goes against the back , and the ceiling side goes against the bed
of your chop saw . This will have the ends "reversed" , so left is right and
right is left . So if you're cutting an outside miter for the right end ,
you cut the left end when on the saw . Hope that was clear ...
So I don't screw up the mitering, I'm just going to use corner blocks.
If you say the adhesive is messy I'll skip it...I figure that if I get
the brads into a number of studs, it's not going to go anywhere.
The crow molding is just pine and my wife is going to paint it first,
then once I have it installed, I'll have to touch it up.
I do have a stud finder but there is noting like poking a brad through
the drywall to confirm where the stud is. All exploratory holes will be
behind the molding so they will not show.
I marked the spot on the ceiling with pencil and will just erase it or
paint over it when done.
Should be no problem in finding them all since you can cover up the
exploratory holes...average out the locations you've found to get a
starting point and measuring 16" OC should get them--unless, of course,
you had a typical framing crew these days and they put every third one
or the like on the wrong side of the mark... :)
As another says, I'd absolutely forego that; it'll just make a mess and
is a pita to deal with without smearing all over everywhere...
The "cheating" way that makes for easy nailing is to cut an angled
filler blocking and put it in the corner and then you've got a
continuous nailing surface plus (assuming you cut the angle correctly)
you've got a guide to keep it uniform. With larger crown this can be a
godsend; for smaller it's pretty easy to do without but for a newbie
it's a nice crutch.
As another says, take some time and practice and learn to cope the
corners; also note that way you can butt the starting end and only cope
the matching piece of one corner per wall, not two...
House was built in 1898 but they complied quite well to the 16"
standard. Most of the studs were right where I expected them to be.
There was one wall where after find two of thew studs, the 3rd one was
not where I expected it...so I just started from the other wall and all
As Terry said, glue just makes a mess. And what
if you need to take the molding down later without
replacing the wallpaper? You want 4F or 6F nails,
depending on the size of the molding and what's in
the wall. (You also need to find wood in the ceiling.)
You say crown molding. Do you really mean the
45 degree stuff? That's tricky at the joints. You'll
need a good miter saw. Hopefully you're using wood
and not the oversized plastic crap, which will always
look like oversized plastic crap, unfortunately. (I've
seen foam crown molding as big as about 16" high.
Like putting a giant BMW logo on a Yugo, it tries to
express classiness but only makes matters worse.)
are using wood and plan to paint it, I'd suggest primer
and a first coat before you put it up. Then fill the
nailholes with lightweight spackle, spot prime, and do
a finish coat. Otherwise you'll be faced with trying to
paint that tiny underside right up to the wallpaper,
without getting any on the wallpaper.
After dealing with suppliers who did not have corner blocks in stock I
said "screw it " and made my own.
Got them in and had a lot of things to do today so only got one (of
four) pieces of crown molding up. Considering that nothing is square in
this 117 year old house it turned out pretty well...some small gaps near
the ceiling which I will caulk and paint.
Passed the "wife" test so I'm OK.
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